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Atomic Binding adjustment problems

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
So, i have the atomic gs and sl 11's, both same bindings and both same problems.
there set up to fit a 26.5 boot, which i got it to do. i however picked up new boots today, and i could NOT get the bindings to fit the 25.5 boot properly with out using the toe piece by itself, (variozone-putting it on Extreme) to make the size smaller. 26.5 is the smallest size the bindings would go to when i did it. And with that adjustment, i can't move the binding settings with the variozone, because the brake mounts are in the way from moving the binding fixture back and forth from extreme to speed(variozone)
SO,
Do i need to re mount them? or am i just doing it all wrong?:c onfused
shouts to Atomicman.
post #2 of 15

Atomic Bindings

They are very easy to adjust - I assume you don't have the Neox, but have the older 3-10s, 4-12s, or 6-14s.

I'm doing this from memory, so hopefully its accurate enough. Obviously, anything you do is at your own risk. The varizone's don't adjust for boot length, they just move the whole binding forward or back to adjust how the ski turns when you are skiing. Also, the below procedure is for minor adjustments. For major adjustments, you have to unscrew the toe and heel from the plate, and rescrew them into another hole that is predrilled in the plate (the 3 sets of holes are already there on Atomic plates you don't need to drill anyting) - there are 3 holes for 3 ranges of boot sizes, which are labeled on the plate. After you do that, you can fine adjust for boot size.

Unscrew the center phillips head screw under your sole, and remove the plastic plate.

You can see a metal strip coming from the heel overlapping the metal strip coming from the toe. At the end of the heel strip, there are numbers on the toe strip - these are your boot length - not the 26.5, but the millimeters sole length usually stamped near the heel of the boot.

Lift up on the heel strip so the little metal tab disengages from the toe strip.

Tap on the heel to move it forward so the number is your new boot sole length (or you may have to move the varizone slider all the way over and tap on the toe, and then after you are all done and have the plastic plate in again, move the whole binding forward to click into the varizone slot). Be sure the metal tab is engaged, and screw on the plastic piece again.

You will need to set your forward pressure - the screw in back should be flush with the recess when the boot is in (although most people like to set it a dime or a nickles thickness in), and you need to check your sole clearance adjustment on the toe. Put a thin piece of cardboard (don't remember the exact dimension) under the boot sole and adjust the toe screw so it slides under the boot.

Also if you have a 3-10 or 4-12, you can pull the heel out and check the date stamp (a little clock) under the heel. If it was manufactured from 98 to 2002, Atomic will replace it under a recent recall program (in which case the shop will do this whole thing for you for free).

There is a bunch of stuff on adjusting Atomics on the site here (you can search for it), also on Neoxes, but they are a lot more complicated.
post #3 of 15
A few important things that you missed.

the actual boot sole length in MM is important not the shell size.

What is the BSL in MM?

You must initailly mount the binding in the holes in the plate that correspond to your boot sole length in mm.

All adjustments must be done with the Vario-zone adjustment in the All-around position.

2 Never adjust the foward pressure with the boot in the binding. The forward pressure adjustment screw should be flush with the housing when the boot is clicked into the binding (And then adjusted 1-2 clicks in with boot out of binding)

3. When adjusting the steel band from the heel piece to the steel band on the toe piece you round down to the closest 10MM. For instance if your boot sole length is 307mm you set the band to the 300 hole. If it is 303mm you still set it to 300.

The gap under your toe must be set to .5mm. You need to slip something .5mm thick like a credit card under the boot toe and click the boot into the binding (you do this after the foward pressure is set)

Pull back on the cuff of your boot and see then attempt to pull the crddit card out. If you cannot pull it out, raise the toe slightly , take boot out of binding, replace boot in bisning, pull back on cuff and try pulling CC out again. You should be able to pull the CC out but with a bit of effort. Repeat all steps until adjusted properly.

Any other questions ask away!
post #4 of 15
Thread Starter 
that seems like alot of work.i'll get my GS skis set up properly by my Ski shop. the new boots are 294, and the old are 304. i want the bindings to be able to adjust to both. when the Gs's are done, i'll get the SL done too. but this will be after, february 11.. thats my city championships, and i'm still acustom to my old boots. so until this race team for school is over, i'll wear my old ones. i'll get my new ones fitted and punched, then get my bindings adjusted properly. and of course, more sharpening and waxing.
post #5 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohname420 View Post
that seems like alot of work.i'll get my GS skis set up properly by my Ski shop. the new boots are 294, and the old are 304. i want the bindings to be able to adjust to both. when the Gs's are done, i'll get the SL done too. but this will be after, february 11.. thats my city championships, and i'm still acustom to my old boots. so until this race team for school is over, i'll wear my old ones. i'll get my new ones fitted and punched, then get my bindings adjusted properly. and of course, more sharpening and waxing.
It's not that much work! Really!
post #6 of 15
Atomicman walked me through the process. I remounted my bindings for larger BSL (the previous owner had a size 7 boot on a 184 cm ski) and after that the adjustment he mentions above is a breeze. Thanks much Atomicman.
post #7 of 15
Thread Starter 
yea, i know its pretty simple. but when i was abit foolish, late at night, i used screw bits a bit to small, so its Sort of on the brink of stripping. so id on't want to damage it more, and if the shop does, then i can blame them. ahha, besides, i have a free binding installation where i work i can use anytime. and free waxing, forever. *i go and get them religiously waxed, FOR FREE! WOOT WOOT

However, I did everything you told me to do on my Slaloms, SL-11's, real simple and easy. pretty intuitive in my opinion. just needa get proper screw bits next time, so i don't damage anymore binding screws.

i'd like to ask though atomicman, your not sponsored by atomic are you? i've seen some threads and saw your massive collection of atomics. (ATOMICS RULE-just on the side)
post #8 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohname420 View Post
yea, i know its pretty simple. but when i was abit foolish, late at night, i used screw bits a bit to small, so its Sort of on the brink of stripping. so id on't want to damage it more, and if the shop does, then i can blame them. ahha, besides, i have a free binding installation where i work i can use anytime. and free waxing, forever. *i go and get them religiously waxed, FOR FREE! WOOT WOOT

However, I did everything you told me to do on my Slaloms, SL-11's, real simple and easy. pretty intuitive in my opinion. just needa get proper screw bits next time, so i don't damage anymore binding screws.

i'd like to ask though atomicman, your not sponsored by atomic are you? i've seen some threads and saw your massive collection of atomics. (ATOMICS RULE-just on the side)
You need #3 pozi-Driver bits (Not phillips). And, my sons were partially sponsored by Atomic when they raced!
post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
oh really?...i've been using phillips..-_-
so how did your son become partially sponsored?
is it through connections, or with an application? I'd like to get involved with sponsorships for my own racing.
post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohname420 View Post
oh really?...i've been using phillips..-_-
so how did your son become partially sponsored?
is it through connections, or with an application? I'd like to get involved with sponsorships for my own racing.
Really!!! You need #3 Pozi-Driver (see here under Screwdrivers & Bits down the page.http://www.tognar.com/binding_tools_...snowboard.html

Top 10 Finishes at Junior Olympics and low enough points for the older one.

The younger one was the #4 J3 in the country in downhill.
post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 
so pretty much. win your self some races, until junior olympic racing level. which would mean, i'd have to join a racing program.
post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohname420 View Post
so pretty much. win your self some races, until junior olympic racing level. which would mean, i'd have to join a racing program.
Or risk your life skiing ultra extreme stuff and learn to fly on skis! And then you could get some freerides!
post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
oo.
or i can do that!
ahaha, though in toronto, Ontario Canada, Freeride isn't in our vocabulary........and for that matter, "Mountain" Isn't either....

so, yea, just got my bindings done. myself.
funny story,

I took them to the shop, so they can do it themselves, they brought it back out, and did nothing. they moved the variozone on the toe piece to speed, so it shortens it, instead of redrilling it. SO, i told them to do it again, by taking the bindings off, and redrilling it. pissed, he did it anyways. He brought it back up and i noticed the variozone wouldn't go back and fourth from extreme to speed. And so, i got really ticked off, told him to bring me a pozi 3, and did it right infront of him while everyone watched. Left, and said thanks.
take that sporting life tune shop! (apparently, they have an imppecable quality of service, and their tuneshop is the best in toronto. I beg to differ....
post #14 of 15
haha yeah SL is a good place to buy clothes - and thats about it
post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
ahaha, truesay,
i work there though. can't say the clothing aspect of SL is bad, but the hardgoods stuff, is abit more to be desired....
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