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Mounting Fischer FreeFlex bindings

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

I've been mounting my own ski bindings on racing skis for over 15 years but today I hit a roadblock when I purchased a pair of 2009 year Fischer Z13 FreeFlex bindings to be mounted on the undrilled racing plates of a 2007 year Fischer WorldCup GS ski.

Like the Head binding line, the Fischer toe and heel are linked by a steel band that fixes the distance between the units in increments of exactly 10 millimeters. The mounting instructions request that the jig be set to the nearest 10 mm. position closet to the boot length before the holes are drilled.

Today I decided to test the hole positions on a scrap piece of hardwood before drilling the lifter plates. Using a 15 year old Tyrolia jig belonging to the ski shop that sold me the bindings, we drilled the holes in the wood.

I discovered that with the toe and heel connected together with the metal band, the binding holes do not align up perfectly. The heel ends up being 2 mm. forward of what would otherwise be a comfortable fit.

If one screws the bindings into this unnatural position, then the linking band bows upward in order to compensate for the heel being closer to the toe.

Previous model years of this same binding had a spring system midway down the linking band which may have provided some tolerence to small errors in hole positioning. But this year's FreeFlex model sets the distance between toe and heel rigidly, so precise hole positioning is critical.

Are there any forum members who own this year's Fischer (Head) Z13 or Z17 FreeFlex bindings who could comment as to whether the upward bowing of the thin metal band is normal when the boots are not inserted in the binding?

Thanks in advance.


Mystery solved. It turns out that the metal band can slide a few mm. either way within the heel piece in order to compensate for any slight heel hole misalignment. In my case, I had attached a heavy rubber band to retract the brake before mounting and that forced the metal band to its extreme position and I could no longer benefit from the sliding effect within the heel. Moral of the story, don't retract the brakes during binding installation, for any brand of bindings.
post #2 of 6

Hi, I seem to have bought almost the same bindings (2008 Fischer Z13) and the same Skis (2003 RC4 Worldcup GS with undrilled racing plates). I have never installed bindings on skis before, and I do not mind taking them to the local ski shop for professional installation, but being a DIYer, I would like to try it myself first. Can you please tell me whether you used silicone/epoxy glue in the screw holes? Also, when initially drilling the holes did you use a smaller bit so that the screws would fit tightly, or is there a chance of breaking the ski that way? Last question (maybe) where exactly is the Binding Mounting Point / BMP? Is the screw in the spring system supposed to be right above the slit in the middle of the racing plate? Maybe I can use that as a point of reference for the BMP.


Any information would be greatly appreciated.


Thank you

post #3 of 6

Metal plate, correct?  Use a 4.1mm bit and tap the holes with a #12AB tap (it's a specific thread for binding screws).  I'd use loctite on the threads myself.

post #4 of 6

Actually, they are plastic. This is a picture of the skis that I bought from the Ebay auction:



post #5 of 6

OK, so probably 3.6mm bit then, and no tapping.  If that is the plate I think it is, it's important to get the binding position correct, as their are hidden metal screws in slots underneath the plate, holding it to the ski (and allowing the plate to slide relative to the ski flex).  You don't want to drill in those areas.  I couldn't really tell from that photo though.


Unfortunately, my tech docs don't go that far back in time, so I am going from memory.  Maybe someone else knows for sure.

post #6 of 6

thanks for your help

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