Wow. We're havin' some fun now!
I also want to make it clear how much respect I have for Bob and how much I've learned from him, and how little difference is really here in this discussion.
But I appreciate the opportunity to clarify a few of my thoughts.
Somebody (coach13?) asked about when do I teach this stuff. The answer is at all levels, but appropriate to the speed of the skier. Slower folks don't have to drive so hard.
Oboe, you can back your shins off!! However, I suspect that those like you who have trouble pressuring the front of the boot end up doing what Ant objects to: zig zag of the legs. In other words, if you load your boots at the shin without driving the hips forward, then the hips usually drop down and back. You get sore shins with no benefit.
The key is the edge. Somebody in one of those posts asked about that issue. Here's the move complex (relative to forward motion) I think that I do when I get my best turns (and the terrain is blue or blue green--with some changes in the black):
--First of all, a version of Bob's "right ski goes right for right turn, etc. In this case, I charge the downhill side (inside of the turn) with the downhill/inside knee, flexing the ankle and knee (inside/downhill) pretty severely.
--The other leg extends--not up and not back, but in a way that pushes my whole pelvis forward.
--Since the downhill side has gotten shorter/lower, the pelvis then moves into the inside of the turn as well as forward.
--It is critical to keep the inside foot from creeping forward through the turn, and to keep the inside knee flexing--forward and inward.
--It is also useful to incline (the racer kids call it "inclinate"). In this place there is some, but very little angulation--mostly at the head and upper torso. The over all axis of the torso is tipped inward, but less than the axis of the outside leg. The inside shoulder is lower than the outside one and the inside hand and hip bone move very close to the snow. (The inside hand absolutely must be kept forward.) The angulation returns as I come back across for the next turn.
--Strong square to the ski tips or very slightly countered is way cool. Facing the hips down the hill kills it.
If all these things happen, then the edge really has a chance to get powerful and to hold. I don't scarve on this turn--not even a little bit. Furthermore, if I increase pressure forward, in the belly of the turn, the radius tightens. Further Furthermore, if I begin to chatter (from too much pressure too soon and too quickly applied) I can correct it by driving the hips/shins even further ahead (until they hit the wall).
The way to summarize all this is to do whatever is necessary to feel the tips on the downhill side bite at the shovel IMMEDIATELY at the edge change.
In the intermediate levels you get some softening of the edge, because the intermediates don't commit inward enough. However, this is a good thing since a little smear for them helps control the speed. DesLauriers said it best even for advanced skiers--that it is a good thing to butter the turn a bit in the steeps.
One last point, if it doesn't work (if it doesn't hold), your skis are too close together.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.