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Falcon CS Pro "After a few days"

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Falcon CS Pro

I have used these boots for 8 days now. The boots I replaced Lange Freeride 120. The CS Pro is a stiff boot I found to be stiffer than the Langes. I have now pulled out the two bolts in the back of the boot to soften the flex. The boot does get very stiff in temps below 25 deg. I like the flex of the boot above 35 deg.
I have always looked at all the dampening methods that boot manufactures use to be a gimmick, was I wrong. The CS Pro doesn't have any dampening methods built into the boot and you can tell. Most of the reviews I read about this boot that it's very sensitive and this is absolutely correct. You could feel everything under your feet it's almost like you are standing directly on the ski. Not sure if I like this, give me more time in the boots I will make up my mind.

As for fit very easy to get on and off. The shell did mold around my sixth toe and I have plenty of room in the toe box. I did need to grind out the back of the heel pocket. Overall the boot fits great.

The gripes I have about the boots; the instructions are horrible, and it is a cold boot.

I have a few questions; the rear spoiler how should it be attached to the boot. I see a pin hole in the back of the shell should I drill a larger hole and try and use the extra fasteners provided with the boots. I will assume the spoiler is to get more forward lean or is it for another purpose?

The dashed line on the inside at the rear of the boot (on the red part of the shell) is this to be cut out if I want to soften the boot?

Just for you info, I'm 155 lbs, 5'-9" and an aggressive skiers who like to ski bumps. I ski around fifty days a year.

Thanks,
Mr. Happy Feet
post #2 of 10
1) IMO you should soften the boot rather than pull the bolts out of the back - this disconnects the upper and lower sections which causes a loss of precision, energy transmission, and rebound.

2) The spoiler is generally designed to fill space behind the leg, especially if you have a high calf. Otherwise you can stand up straighter than the forward lean angle. Most guys put them in, most gals take 'em out. Basically flavour to taste re. calf fit, tongue pressure, and perception of fore/aft balance.

3) You can cut a 'v' in the back of the lower shell, but it's better to scoop out both sides under the ankle bones (and put the bolts back in ).

Hope that helps.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 

Bolts?

The Falcon CS (not the CS Pro) doesn't have bolts why would it make a difference if I have the bolts removed.

How do I fasten the rear spoiler?

Thanks
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 

More Info

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdistefa View Post
1)
3) You can cut a 'v' in the back of the lower shell, but it's better to scoop out both sides under the ankle bones (and put the bolts back in ).

Hope that helps.
I could see what you are talking about the only connection of the upper and lower part of the boot are the two pivot lugs at the ankles. Again, the CS (not CS pro) is built this way.

Not sure what you are talking about when you say scoop out under the ankle bones.

I mentioned this "disconnects the upper and lower sections which causes a loss of precision, energy transmission, and rebound" to the ski shop I purchased the boots from and he looked at me like I was crazy.

Has anyone one remove the plugs from the CS pro if you have what is your opinion.

Thanks
post #5 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpjunky View Post
Not sure what you are talking about when you say scoop out under the ankle bones.
I meant cut the lower shell in a 'u' shape above both ankle bones.

"I mentioned this 'disconnects the upper and lower sections which causes a loss of precision, energy transmission, and rebound' to the ski shop I purchased the boots from and he looked at me like I was crazy."

IMO you need to see someone who knows what they're doing. Clearly this person doesn't.
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
What is the dashed line for on the back of the inside of the boot?

I have seen boots cut with a "V" on the back of the lower part of the boot, what is the difference between the back and the sides?
post #7 of 10
You can cut the boot along the dashed lines, but again the boot can lose rebound with this type of cut.

You can increase the suppleness of the boot without impacting the rebound by cutting the sides instead.
post #8 of 10
the plastic on the spine of the clog [lower boot]runs up the inside of the cuff, as you flex the boot the cuff pushes agaismt this plastic when you come off the front of the boot this plastic acts to pull the boot back upright [rebound]....... if you cut a V into this plastic then you lose the rebound effect that it gives when it is complete

as Matt says a good bootfitter will be ablke to remove the cuff and sculp the clog removing material in a smooth arc from the top of the spine of the clog down above the ankles and up to the front wings of the clog, the amount of material removed determines the amount of increase in flex....there is no way of saying it will go from 100 to 90 or 80 it may go to 85 or 87 but so long as both are done the same than it is not a problem...... the fitter should go slowly and there needs to be no overcuts or the shell may fail at some point in its life
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEM View Post
as Matt says a good bootfitter will be ablke to remove the cuff and sculp the clog removing material in a smooth arc from the top of the spine of the clog down above the ankles and up to the front wings of the clog
All this information is great, thanks......... It's good to be a little educated before I go back to the ski shop.
As for the quote above seems to me what you are describing is the dashed line on the inside of the boot. The dashed line goes from the top of the ankle (pivot) in a smooth round line up the back of the leg. At the back of the leg (calf) the dashed line does go down in a "U" shape, I will assume you do not cut this "U" out.

Are you familiar with this dashed line inside the boot?

I did try and attach a photo, the file size is only 44kb and it's telling me it's too large, what gives.

Thanks
post #10 of 10
that dashed line is one which can be used, sometimes you need more than that sometimes less...and no do not cut the V shape down the back
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