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good waxes?

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
Hey all, I am a J1 USSA Racer this year and I'm looking for a good wax to use. I have used swix for previous years and dabbled some with holmenkol last year, I'm looking for a good low price wax and stumbled upon Racewax.com, before i order any, I'd like to know if it's a good wax that will stand up there with swix or holmenkol.
other brand suggestions would be great too! I am looking at the T-series of racewax.com just to give an idea
thanks!
post #2 of 22
Marc has good stuff, which wax you looking at? I love the molybendum stuff. My favorite wax, i am not a racer but it's got great glide and pretty durable. It will leave a gray color on your bases if there's any white, I don't care but I know some may.
post #3 of 22
Thread Starter 
I was looking at something along the lines of this:http://www.racewax.com/product/PB-45..._PB 4500.html
it's a good price and seems like a good range for a sampler.
where is he located/how fast is shipping? i'd hope to have it for this weekend to try it out and all. I've been using Swix LF series waxes (just cause the HF/BD's are way expensive). I don't have too much of a need for the below 15*F as far as i know, and if need be i have a wax to use for that. I figured (and i could be off just cause i know snow temps aren't always = air temps) but the snow should be ~20* (It's suppose to be about 18 on friday and 22 on saturday)
post #4 of 22
The T series is great. I have used most of DR. D's waxes and have been very happy with them. As Finn said above, the Moly stuff is great as well. Don't be afraid to mix some stuff as well
post #5 of 22
Maplus waxes stand up to any from the elite on down. Among other wins, they were involved in the past two men's DH wins at Lake Louise:
Quote:
Hudec 2007: The winning wax at the Lake Louise DH was Racing Base Med with P2 Cold/P2 Med. Go Canada!
Quote:
2008: As a follow-up to Lake Louise we had excellent results with Maplus involved in both men's winning results (Maier and Fill). Our fluoro material is performing incredibly well right now and P4 (accelerator) was the difference.
post #6 of 22
Thread Starter 
honestly?
i've never heard of maplus wax lol
I just spent a while on the phone with marc and ended up putting in a pretty good order, got the 5x40 T-series kit (T1-T5, each 40gs)...for me, and then a block of general for my parents and friends, a 15g shaker of nano flouro powder, a cork and polishing cloth.
should get it for my races this weekend, and i'm really excited to try them out!
post #7 of 22
I bought some stuff from him a while back, including wax. A pleasure to deal with and good prices.

Since I don't race, I went with the straight up HC cheap stuff and have been very happy with it. Good quantity for the price, quality is up there with the far pricier Swix/Holmenkol/Toko stuff of a comparable level, but far more cost effective than the big 3. I'm sure this applies to the more exotic waxes. If I ever step foot on a race course again, I'm sure I will try some of his Moly and/or Fluoro stuff.

Maplus is a pretty big brand of tuning supplies. Brushes, waxes and I'm sure some other stuff too. IIRC they do a lot of liquid waxes.
post #8 of 22

Good luck with the racing season. Glad Dr D got you set up and nice to see you supporting a fellow EpicSki Sponser.

Maplus is not being marketed strongly at all other than National Team sponsorships and team testing. I'm basically the lone US voice AFAIK so you won't hear or see exposure everywhere. For product line info (solids, liquids/sprays, powders and cream), here's our Maplus Wax Summary.

Here's the Maplus Waxing Manual.

Regarding tools, like all major wax companies, Maplus puts their brand name on tools made elsewhere (ie, SkiMan Pro Vise, guides & diamonds, etc) to offer a full line of quality waxing and tuning tools and supplies.


Edited by Alpinord - 9/30/11 at 6:41am
post #9 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
Good luck with the racing season. Glad Dr D got you set up and nice to see you supporting a fellow EpicSki Sponser.

Maplus is not being marketed strongly at all other than National Team sponsorships and team testing. I'm basically the lone US voice AFAIK so you won't hear or see exposure everywhere. For product line info (solids, liquids/sprays, powders and cream), here's our Maplus Wax Summary.

Here's the Maplus Waxing Manual.

Regarding tools, like all major wax companies, Maplus puts their brand name on tools made elsewhere (ie, SkiMan Pro Vise, guides & diamonds, etc) to offer a full line of quality waxing and tuning tools and supplies.
hm that may be why i've never heard of them

i'm excited to try the T1's as well as overlays.

question: i was playing on the wax wizard on his site, and it reccomends a graphite wax as a base (one that he sells). Now I didn't get any of his graphite waxes/blends/whatever it may be. Now, I do have a swix graphite wax that I got...a while ago from my boss. Is it going to be similar enough to use it as a base?

and what is the best way to do a base-middle layer? I've always done just a single layer of whatever the day's wax will be. Am I supposed to do the first layer iron-scrape-brush, and then do the next layer, iron-scrape-brush, and the cork-brush the overlay?
post #10 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeoalex View Post
hm that may be why i've never heard of them

i'm excited to try the T1's as well as overlays.

question: i was playing on the wax wizard on his site, and it reccomends a graphite wax as a base (one that he sells). Now I didn't get any of his graphite waxes/blends/whatever it may be. Now, I do have a swix graphite wax that I got...a while ago from my boss. Is it going to be similar enough to use it as a base?

and what is the best way to do a base-middle layer? I've always done just a single layer of whatever the day's wax will be. Am I supposed to do the first layer iron-scrape-brush, and then do the next layer, iron-scrape-brush, and the cork-brush the overlay?
If I recommend a graphite it is a mistake and let me know about it please. It is not that they are bad it is just that moly's are better. I had some defect bars I could have tossed in, but I didn't see this thread and your box is at the post office now.

Swix wax is a compatible base for my wax.

Yes to your suggested waxing procedure.
post #11 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor D View Post
If I recommend a graphite it is a mistake and let me know about it please. It is not that they are bad it is just that moly's are better. I had some defect bars I could have tossed in, but I didn't see this thread and your box is at the post office now.

Swix wax is a compatible base for my wax.

Yes to your suggested waxing procedure.
well yes, it's the black moly. I have a few black bars of swix stuff (it's older) and i remember graphite on the package which I believe was tossed a ways back. I'm just trying to decide if that's a good base underneath the T's.
depending on money and all that stuff i may put in an order for some of those molys next time around
post #12 of 22
Thread Starter 
so i did a little poking around i think the black that i've got is this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Swix-Sport-USA.../dp/B0010VIPEQ
will that work as a base/middle over the T-series? or would i be better off just doing a layer of the t?
post #13 of 22

They're all good...

...I've used everything but am currently on Toko because (a) it's a simple, reliable system and (b) one of my teammates can get it at 55% to 60% of list, which is a big consideration in the fluoro area...
post #14 of 22
I started buying from racewax.com about 3 years ago and never use anything else anymore. I have a J3 and J4 now. The service (including prompt email responses) has always been great.

The nature of the product makes it very hard to judge one wax against another. (It would take a lot of time and energy to rig some kind of double-blind test).

My kid has developed a reputation among his coaches as a good "glider." Some of this probably has to do with the pilot, but if his wax was terribly wrong, I don't think he would have this aspect of skiing as a strong point.

Racewax.com is plenty cheaper than anywhere else, so unless someone can convince me that another product is better, I'll be staying with them.
post #15 of 22
I also use Dr. D's Moly wax. Since you've been speaking with him already I'm sure you know this, but his waxes (except for the hydrocarbon base waxes) do not drip on. Touch the bar of wax to the iron and crayon the wax into the base until the wax hardens up again. (You can get about 3" or so of the base crayoned). Repeat until entire ski base is crayoned with the wax.

To iron, I find it works best with this wax to place a sheet of fiberlene between the base and iron. Then make the normal 3 passes with the iron/fiberlene combination.

After it cools, you'll only need one or two passes with a sharp scraper. Then brush.

Let us know how your racing goes this weekend.
post #16 of 22
good point about the application, I learned that the hard way. I was speaking with MArc yesterday about the wax. I also learned he does not suggest corking it cold. I tried that last time and it doesn't really work in well-enough. Still my favorite wax.

Another point, Racewax and slidewright are small business's and they need all our business. I am a small biz owner and it's tough out there. I always try to spend my dollars locally and with small biz owners. You won't find better personal service and help. You can call and speak with him about what to buy and how to tune and all. Try that on Amazon! Cheers to Tim and Marc.
post #17 of 22
Thanks finndog. (I've been called many things, including Tim. ) It definitely gets old putting in the considerable time and effort here and seeing referrals to non-supporters, members or sponsors of this site who contribute nothing. And yes...things are extremely tight.

Regarding crayoning wax, another easier method I tend toward is hot smearing where you touch the bar to the iron and rub the wax laden iron on the base. It uses a little more wax than crayoning but is more natural, easier and quicker for me.
post #18 of 22
Yikes, my apologies to you TERRY, sorry TERRY!!! Yes, that's exactly how I apply the moly. A little schmearing on the iron, and then on the bases!

SUPPORT YOUR EPIC SUPPORTERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BUY NOW, BUY OFTEN, BUY A LOT..... F* AMAZON!
post #19 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
Thanks finndog. (I've been called many things, including Tim. ) It definitely gets old putting in the considerable time and effort here and seeing referrals to non-supporters, members or sponsors of this site who contribute nothing. And yes...things are extremely tight.

Regarding crayoning wax, another easier method I tend toward is hot smearing where you touch the bar to the iron and rub the wax laden iron on the base. It uses a little more wax than crayoning but is more natural, easier and quicker for me.
That is exactly how I did all my wax last night (and probably for a long time to come, it really does save wax). In the van on the way to the race, and I can't sleep lol. Tried out dr. D's stuff last night, used just over a quarter of the 40g I think (I used too much on the first ski oops) and it went on well, we'll see how it goes, used t-2 with a fee hot scrapes before that (with swix base prep). Can't use the nano overlay I got, temp is topping out at 21* today, and possibly the same tomorrow. Maybe if it gets warm 2nd run...I'll post ip later with how it went
post #20 of 22
Thread Starter 
well just took my first run and it was meh, not great...my line wasn't so good lol. The wax was great though, ski was running smooth and great. I think I'm hooked lol
post #21 of 22
Thread Starter 
So I'm in the van on the way to the hotel. I plan on using dr. D's wax for a long time to come. It was a really solid product. My skis were gliding smooth today, I could feel an acceleration unlike I had experienced with any other wax when running a flat ski at the finish.
I'll post up a better "review" if you wil tomorrow when I'm home
post #22 of 22
For real racing, there's no one single producer who would always do best. You basically have to have few huge boxes from all them, and use them when they work best. But with this, things get "a bit" complicated, and you can't really do much without a lot of testing, which is normally out of question for most of people.
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