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Pole length adjustments for varied terrain?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
I took a 2 day bump lesson this weekend and it helped me a lot when I used the shorter poles from someone else in the group (helped me stay off the backseat when I planted on the top of the bumps).

SO - with that in mind.. if I have adjustable poles (thinking of getting them) - what adjustments should I generally make for different terrains (and about how much of an adjustment). Specifically I like to ski (or plan on skiing more of); groomers for cruising (of course keep poles at 'standard' length), bumps (go shorter by how much?), trees (shorter or longer??), steeps, and powder (I assume I need to go longer on steeps and powder about how much?).

Also - since I end up skiing mostly bumps on the East (with ocassional cruising on groomers and ocassional tree run) - what negative effects, if any, would a shorter pole have when not in the bumps? (maybe I'll just get a shorter pole instead of an adjustable one).

OR - is this just going to make it too complicated!

post #2 of 9
Bumps - Pierre is right.
Trees - the length depends completely on the powder and how far your ski's sink. The consistent change is the basket. For powder, you should use a basket with a larger surface area.

Make sure you find a way to mark the standard length on your poles. 1/4" off can make a significant difference on the groomers when you're at speed.

Know this, I don't change my poles for the terrain, I just ski.<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by GF (edited January 08, 2001).]</FONT>
post #3 of 9
I looked at adjustable poles and passed because they are expensive and heavy. I do have two sets of poles with one an inch shorter than the other. I use the shorter ones on days when the snow is hard or I'm going to be skiing moguls, while the longer ones are used on powder and crud days. I don't know if the difference in height really makes as much of a difference as realizing I need to be more aggressive on hard snow and in the moguls, something selecting the shorter poles helps to remind me.
post #4 of 9
I do not know where I read this Maybe it was in here somewhere. Ok Here it goes. "If Poles were all that importent then the sport would Be called poleing and not skiing."

The Best skier in the world is the One with the biggest smile. Utah49
post #5 of 9
I have the adjustable Goodies and I never thought of them as being heavy....actually they are pretty light. They were a bit pricey at $75 (not on sale).

On Saturday, my wife and I got each others poles mixed up (3" difference), she noticed about four runs later, but I never did.

"Old School" logic used to dictate...
Keep the poles about an inch shorter than the "level forearm" rule in order to stay forward since the pole plant was supposed to be near the ski tip.

On not using poles..... When you can run a better NASTAR time (or slalom) without em than with em, I'll leave em home too.
post #6 of 9
I've had better GS times without poles... does that count?
post #7 of 9
GF: There is always that exception to "the rule" (..read...OK..make a liar outta old Yuki), but I can't believe that all those GS guys (read..WC racers), carry them for looks.

Sounds like your sense of balance is very good. But how do you get the push out of the gate without poles? Grab the sides of the start house?<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by yuki (edited January 09, 2001).]</FONT>
post #8 of 9

I grab two wooden posts at the start house. Also, the course begins at the top of an incredibly steep black diamond trail. The steep section is about a 50 degree down angle and begins about 20 feet from the start line.

post #9 of 9
i wouldn't get adjustable poles for in resort

they are expensive and one good fall on one, they don't adjust anymore

they are a godsend in the BC so that you can lengthen them for skinning and shorten them for skiing

i don't use any different poles for conditions, but i noticed years ago that i liked a shorter pole for tele (48") than i did for alpine (50").

Free your heels, poke your eyes out!
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