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Christmas week in St Anton/Zurs/Lech/Stuben…

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
For those who don’t know where I’m talking about, maybe this will help with the location:

We stayed in Chalet Fauner, which is run by Ski-Val, and owned by a family who run one of the ski shops in town. The town of St Anton is picturesque, but that’s not the main reason we went.

It’s a pretty big ski area with plenty of off-piste opportunities.



Snow conditions were pretty good, even down in Stuben. (in the background you can see the main road twisting up the mountain to Zurs and Lech)

…which is where I’ll give you my first tip… Go to the Berhaus Stuben for lunch. It’s best to book ahead. The food is excellent, good value for money, and they have a reasonable selection of wines too. The gents restrooms also feature soccer goals, with soccer balls which help with your aim.


The lifts at Stuben are slow 2-man ones which are exposed and can get very cold. Thankfully they have blankets at the the bottom of each one which you can take to keep you warm – just remember to leave them at the top, unless you want to be superman for a run or two. At the top of Stuben is a back bowl which vaguely reminded me of Mineral basin – one lift out, a couple of pisted runs, but after that it’s up to you where you go. The conditions were great.
…and now for my second tip… at the top of the lift out of the bowl, ski down about 100 yards then take the pisted route to the right – carry as much speed as you can, as it’s a bit up and down. It’s only a short distance, but you’ll see a building in front of you. Head up the stairs to a cosy bar which is perched on the edge – the views are worth the effort. (skiing back from it is along the same route, so it involves poling.)


In the shadow of the mountain in Zurs, which you can’t ski to directly from St Anton/St Christophe/Stuben, it is a short (free) bus ride away.
Once you get there, you start to see how the other half live.


The pistes are nicely groomed, and not too busy. The 4- and 6-packs all have covers on them, and the seats are heated. Nothing nicer than having a warm backside on a cold day – well, apart from a well-stuffed beaver…

(yes, I know it’s a marmot, but surely I’m allowed a bit of puerile humour!)
From Zurs we skied over to Zug, which involves going down an itinerary, which on the map looks very short but in reality is one of the longest runs you’ll do. I don’t know why it’s marked as an itinerary, apart from a short uphill section; it all goes the right way. Zug looks like a proper alpine village that has never been developed for big tourism. Taking the lift from there and you end up at the champagne bar (I can’t remember its real name, but you can’t miss it).

The view from there is stunning

(click for the full-sized original)
After playing around in that, it’s a short run down to Oberlech, where you can relax in a deckchair on the slopes

And take in the view.



Another place worth stopping for lunch is the Hospiz Alms in St Christoph. As in most ski resorts, the toilets are downstairs. Unlike the champagne bar in Zug, this place doesn’t have an elevator to them, but it does have a slide which goes down beside the stairs. (I’ve just realised this could read like a toilet report, but no, it’s actually a ski report.)
Apart from the food, this place also has a very impressive wine cellar.


Unfortunately someone must have tipped them off about me turning up, cause all the bottles were behind bars (I couldn’t get near the expensive bottles, they were in a big section to the left of the photo).
We were on the trip with some friends who had their 7 year old daughter, so we all had to write letters to Santa and place them round the tree. He must have read them, cause the next morning the carrot had been eaten by Rudolph, and Santa had enjoyed a few chocolates.

Of course, Christmas Day wouldn’t be the same without some fizz on the slopes, so around 11am we stopped for a sip


Most of the days finished with a drink too. The Heustdal was our favourite – it wasn’t as busy as the Moosewirt or Krazy Kangaroo, and had live music some evenings too.
Of course, that means skiing back down at dusk, which can be fun.


All in all, a great trip. I’d like to go back and spend a bit more time skiing St Anton. I’d also like to take more photos, so I could show you Rendl Beach, etc.

It was a very Happy Christmas.


post #2 of 18
OMG, Fox, it looks like you and Helen had a fabulous time!

Thanks for the amazing pics!
post #3 of 18
Oh, and the part about covered, heated chairs.....I'd have paid big $$ for one of those on Sunday!!
post #4 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
The lifts at Stuben are slow 2-man ones which are exposed and can get very cold. Thankfully they have blankets at the the bottom of each one which you can take to keep you warm
Yeah the Albona isn't a ride for Sissies...

But good they stay that way...keeps most of the gapers away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
In the shadow of the mountain in Zurs, which you can’t ski to directly from St Anton/St Christophe/Stuben, it is a short (free) bus ride away.
You can. But it involves a brief hike up and requires stable conditions and good visibility.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
The pistes are nicely groomed, and not too busy. The 4- and 6-packs all have covers on them, and the seats are heated.
Never noticed they're heated....must be new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
From Zurs we skied over to Zug, which involves going down an itinerary, which on the map looks very short but in reality is one of the longest runs you’ll do.
If you are talking about the detour from the Mahdloch run it is usually a bumpfest. The upper routes thru the Stierloch though....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
Taking the lift from there and you end up at the champagne bar (I can’t remember its real name, but you can’t miss it).
That's the famous Palmenalpe......make sure to take the run down to Lech or Zug at dusk, wasted...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
After playing around in that, it’s a short run down to Oberlech, where you can relax in a deckchair on the slopes
Now this concerns me...did you really do any skiing?

Too bad I had to sacrifice my planned trip down there, good you went for it and for a great time on all the mountain restaurants too. Cheers.
post #5 of 18
Amazing report- someday Frau Crab and I will make it over there, for the food, champaign and the skiing....
post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
PowHog, yes, it was the Mahdloch run - it wasn't bumped much, but then again, the slopes were very quiet.
We did a lot of skiing, but I don't have many photos of that. The camera really only came out when we stopped. Honest.

(the hip flasks came out on most lifts though!)
post #7 of 18
We hit up St Anton every year for 8 straight years in the 90's, good times. We eventually branched out to Val Thorens / Val d'Isere, Cortina, Arabba, and haven't been back in probably 7 or 8 years now. Definitely need to plan a trip soon...
post #8 of 18
Oh, man, thanks for that. I was there some years back and just loved it. You said a lot about the drink but not much about the food! What did you eat? Did you have garlic soup? Spinach dumplings? Those were two of my faves from Lech.
post #9 of 18
Thread Starter 
I would have loved to try the garlic soup.
Favourite food was the Salmon Rosti in Stuben.
post #10 of 18
I have never had much interest in going to Europe but after seeing the pictures I am starting to change my mind.
post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by cstreu1026 View Post
I have never had much interest in going to Europe but after seeing the pictures I am starting to change my mind.
The complete opposite for me! Over 6k vertical at most major resorts, 10 different mountains to ski on, a completely different experience from NA I bet!

I'm getting my chance in Kitz during half term... quite eager right now!
post #12 of 18
The Arlberg is so great. Can't wait to get back. I've been dying to ski from Zurs over the Flexen Pass and into Stuben.
post #13 of 18
Quote:
…and now for my second tip… at the top of the lift out of the bowl, ski down about 100 yards then take the pisted route to the right – carry as much speed as you can, as it’s a bit up and down. It’s only a short distance, but you’ll see a building in front of you. Head up the stairs to a cosy bar which is perched on the edge – the views are worth the effort. (skiing back from it is along the same route, so it involves poling.)

it's an equally view if you hike 5 metres up from the end of the chairlift


(it's clickable)
(Christmas 2008)
post #14 of 18
The Picture of the Hospiz Winekeller is NOT the Keller, that is just an upstairs store room !!

The actual WeinKeller is downstairs is much bigger. You can go in by invitation or if you are buying a bottle !!

http://www.arlberghospiz.at/hospizal...er_detail.aspx
post #15 of 18
WFTH
Just catching up, good to see you both had such a good time
post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by boredsurfin View Post
WFTH
Just catching up, good to see you both had such a good time
Had a great time, Mike.
How's your last day of being in your 40s?
post #17 of 18
Awesome TR WTFH! After reading and viewing the photos, I'm thinking next year is the Arlberg. That looks like a pretty posh resort there in Zurs/St. Anton. Will have to research further. Thanks for sharing.
post #18 of 18
Awesome stuff...thanks for sharing.
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