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help with waxing routine

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I am looking for advice on my waxing routine...should I drop certain aspects or add anything to it?

1. Iron wax into ski
2. Let ski/wax cool (@15-30min)
3. Scrape wax
4. Cork
5. Brush with nylon brush
6. Brush with horse hair brush
7. Polish with felt block
8. Texture with white scotchbrite pad (to prevent snow suck)

Is this a good routine or are some steps totally unnecessary and should be dropped?

post #2 of 8
4. cork: no need
7: no need, save this for overlays

swap order of # 5, 6
post #3 of 8
Why are you using two brushes? Nylon is a great all-around brush and it is fine for a first and only brush after waxing for rec skis. However, there are more aggressive brushes that will do a much better job of pulling the wax out of the structure. IMO, following nyon w/ horsehair doesn't make a lot of sense. Either you want race-fast bases (in which case you are using the wrong brushes) or you a rec skier (in which case you are using the wrong brushes and doing more than you really need to).

If you are looking for really fast bases, the preferred brush order would be:

(before waxing)
Brass (to open the structure and pull out old wax)

(after wax)

Unless you are prepping race skis or are ocd about ski tuning. Just brush with nylon and call it good.

And x2 on not using cork. Corking is an alternative to using a waxing iron. Instead of ironing the wax, you use the friction of the cork to melt the wax and work it into the structure.

Also, I'm skeptical of #8. Base structure is what prevents suction and if you've done a reasonable job of brushing, it should be free enough of wax to do its job. You don't need to do additional "texturing". Typically scotchbrite pads are used after a base grind to remove the p-tex hairs that are invariably sticking up after the process. 100 strokes. I typically will break this up into groups of 25 strokes & do four strokes with a brass brush in between each group.
post #4 of 8
Skip steps #4, #6, #7, and #8.
post #5 of 8
You may want to consider doing a hot scrape before your number 1, especially if your bases are dirty or gritty at all.

I dunno, how often to other folks hot scrape a ski?

I tend to do mine every half a dozen or so waxings... I believe that this will still leave wax in the base, but will remove any old wax or grit on the surface, right?
post #6 of 8

A quick alternative....

For a much quicker, cleaner, and very nearly as good wax job that also uses much less wax, try the following routine

1. Rub wax onto ski, by touching the wax block briefly to your hot iron base to soften it and then quickly rubbing it onto the base, repeatedly. Cover the base with a very thin film of wax.

2. Iron the wax into the base, keeping the iron moving, for a couple minutes.

3. Hold a piece of shop towel, or even regular paper towel, onto the iron's base, and iron one smooth stroke from tip to tail, letting the towel absorb most of the wax. (You can use "fiberlene" if you want to, but really, cheap paper towels work fine.)

4. Let it cool and ski!

The rub-on method will cover the ski base more evenly than dripping wax on, protecting the base from your hot iron, and using much less wax to boot. Once you get the hang of it (tap the iron, rub, tap, rub,...), it will go almost as quickly as dripping, and take less time to iron in. The thinner wax won't drip down your sidewalls, or (almost ever!) onto the floor. The paper towel absorbs most of the excess wax, all but eliminating the need for scraping (or cleaning up the wax shavings).

This is not a "better" wax routine than what you described. In fact, it's not quite as good. You will gain a minute improvement if you scrape and brush after cooling, but unless you are a racer looking for milliseconds, you won't notice the difference. If you've done it right, you'll find that there's very little wax to scrape anyway. Some of the best racers I know use this method for training skis, at least. The paper towel/no scrape method will give you about 95% of the performance of a full scrape--brush--brush again--clean-up job, with about 10% of the work, time, and mess. Give it a quick brush (nylon) if you're a perfectionist, and most people won't be able to tell the difference looking closely, much less skiing on them!

Why do it this way, if it's not quite as good? It's so much quicker and less of an ordeal--especially if you don't have a regular tuning area, as in a hotel room (not that I'd ever do that ) that you'll wax more often. It will save you money by using less wax. And it's certainly better than skiing on unwaxed skis because you didn't feel like going through the whole process.

Best regards,
post #7 of 8
You guys better quit messing with this guy.
post #8 of 8
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