I hope you're not disappointed when I say that these are nice Christy turns. The Christy (tips closer than the tails) is very slight and appearing only very briefly on most turns because you turn in to parallel above the fall line (that's good!). You have wonderful steering control of your skis because the steering happens gradually through the whole turn. This allows for great rhythm and speed control. Your weight is pretty much centered over your skis and you keep your hands in front of you. This level of skiing can get you safely around most mountains.
My guess is that you're ready to move to the next level of performance, not that you need to. My bet is that steeper slopes present a control challenge and that the steeper you go, the quicker you get tired. If you want to explore what's on the next level here are some observations and suggestions.
Do you have custom footbeds? Like many women, you are skiing in an A frame position (there's a lot less space between the legs from the knees to the hips than from the feet to the knees). I'm not a bootfitter, but you're right leg looks a little out of whack. If you haven't had your alignment checked, I recommend a visit to a bootfitter.
I like that you have a quiet upper body (very little bend at the hips). We want to keep that. Your core is mostly centered and pretty much stays solidly in place. I'd like to see it just a tad more forward and I'd like to see it move forward and back some during your turns. Your knees have ok flex, but they have very little range of movement. The only ankle movement I see is when you inadvertently get some tip lead, the trailing ankle does flex. At the next level of performance, for a reference position we're going to see a tiny bit more ankle flex to bring your hips that tad more forward that I wanted. That will put the hips in position to move diagonally forward into the new turn starting during the transition. Bending the new inside knee and raising the toes of the new inside foot will "pull" that forward movement into the new turn. After that, you'll naturally come back to a centered position in time to make another forward move for the next turn. With this new ankle movement you're going to have better balance to handle faster speeds.
You're going to need to be able to handle faster speeds because right now, you're only feeling the ski carve at the very end of your turns. Right now your legs are doing most of the work to control speed. Being more efficient requires getting the ski to carve through more of the turn. Carving skis mean faster skis. But this does not mean that you have to go faster down the hill. I want you to go faster across the hill, then finish your turns with the skis traveling in a greater uphill direction. This will let gravity and the ski design do more of the speed control work for you. So you're going to trade consistent speed control throughout the whole turn for speeding up at the fall line, then slowing down as you travel back up hill (at least relatively and maybe literally) at the end of the turn.
As you get faster speeds, you're going to need to get more separation between the upper and lower body. In general I see your feet, hips and shoulders all pointed in the same direction all the time. At the next level of performance, we're going to have the hips and shoulders facing more downhill than directly in line with the skis (we call this counter). There's another aspect to upper lower body separation we call angulation. That's when a line from the center of your hips to your chin is more vertical than a line drawn from the center of your hips to in between the feet. 180 degrees would mean both lines are lined up the same. In your turns I see about 170 degrees. We call this banking. Banking works, but it does not give us a lot of margin for error and it does not help us create higher edge angles. For the steepness of the slope you're on and at the speed your going, I'd like to see a number in the low 160s. The left turn at 1 minute 10 seconds is closest to what I'm looking for. You can think about this as getting your feet more out from underneath you/away from the body or you can think about this as tipping your boots on edge more. Either way, as you go faster, you'll need more (e.g. below 160 as the next level for you)!
My guess is that someone taught you to get your hands forward and to raise your hands up when powder skiing. I see your elbows in front of your hips and your hands above your belly button. In concert with bending your ankles more to get your hips forward, I'd like to see you bring your elbows back a little closer to your hips and lower your hands to belly button level. But do this without sitting back! If you bend your ankles more, you'll be able to do it. You want to just barely be able to see your hands out of the bottom corners of your eyes.
I see you occasionally raising your right hand high to shoulder level (but not your left). This is an ok move to accomplish unweighting for powder skiing, but should not be necessary for 4 inches of snow and modern gear. You don't raise your left hand so we know you don't have to do this because of the conditions or your gear. So I'm thinking either you're just waving to the camera or this is another sign that your boots needs a little adjustment
The other thing is that we use the downhill hand high to unweight for the next turn, then pole touch. You're pole touching, then raising the hand and not pole touching until you are in the fall line. This isn't hurting you, but your pole swings are not helping as much as they could be. For the shape of these turns, I'd like to see you touching your poles to the snow a little earlier in the turn and see you reaching a little more towards the tips of your skis and at least a foot further down the hill than where you are touching the poles. In these turns, your pole touch is behind the boot toes and maybe 6-10 inches away from the boots.
Drills for you (but please don't do them in 4" of fresh - just go out and enjoy that snow!):
1000 shuffles - Shuffle your feet back and forth constantly all the way throughout every turn, especially during the transition
Whack a mole- Those moles are clever little guys. If you get too close before your pole touch, they'll get away. To whack them with your pole you need to reach way down the hill and in front of you. Start your pole swing movement before you change edges with your elbow starting next to your hip and then extending the elbow out so that you can touch the pole 3 feet below your ski tips. But imagine there's a bungy cord between your elbow and your new inside hip that is pulling your hip across the skis.
Smiley turns- Start in a shallow traverse and turn uphill only by tipping your boots into the hill (roll your ankles!) until you come to a stop (be careful about oncoming traffic!). Gradually make your starting angle steeper and make a bigger "smile" track (i.e. finishing almost as high as when you start). Your skis should make pencil thin tracks in the snow. If not, then you are turning your feet instead of tipping them.
Sheena, your skiing is at a magic level where you are just as likely to get a breakthrough through mileage as you are to be stuck on a plateau. Any one tip could bring an aha moment. There are many different possible paths to the next level of performance but there does not have to be a pressing need for change because the level of control you have should be a lot of fun already.