Originally Posted by Ron White
That totally depends on how you apply that rotary movement. If it is pressing the tail of the ski outward, you are right. If it is pulling the tip of the outside ski into the snow, with the foot and tail of the ski following the tip, that is a very different application. It actually aids in edge hold.
People have the rotary thing completely confused. Precise rotary movements are used to apply just the right ammount to drift to the skis at the top of the turn and then keep the drift to what is appropriate through the whole turn. This is the opposite of carving edge locked where you simply need to tip your skis onto their edges and off you go into the next turn. If you are on SL skis you turn tighter, if you are on GS skis you turn wider. It depends on the sidecut, ski stiffness, plate construction etc. In edge lock carving you need to stay forward for balance but in general your skis should be more evenly pressured. Both ski tip and tail is used for arcing the same arc. No drifting allowed. In drifted turns pressing the tip of the ski more will produce tighter turns since the friction increases at the tip and it bends more and threrfore turns tighter. The tail will not be able to follow the ski tip in the same track and drifts wider. This is what causes friction and slows you down. This makes your turn radius shorter and your turns tighter. This is for example how bump skiers ski the zipper line of a double black diamond at controlled speed except they have bumps to help them slow down as well. Whatever you do, drift or carve, finish your turns for more speed controll because the closer you keep to the fall line the faster you will go.
Afraid to be hit by a knuckle head if you finish your turns? Dont go skiing.