or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Canting experiments

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
This is a little bit of an offshoot from Si's post, but a lot simpler. Si was talking about being able to just "stick in" canting adjustments both inside and outside the boot. How do you do that? I thought one had to either put wedges in under the bindings or plane your boot soles. Is it possible to experiment with canting adjustments outside the boot without these major "capital improvements" to your boots or bindings? Do these methods constitute a permanent fix?
post #2 of 10

You can play with canting to some degree by placing wedges of canting material between the boot heel and binding on one side or the other. Ususally you place little tabs of duct tape on the end to help hold them in place while you your boot heel down. You can't do this at the toe as the boot won't fit into the toe piece if this is done. This is definitely a temporary thing to try. In fact I stretched the truth a bit when I said I removed the cant - actually my binding released and I lost it! I was going to do my last run without it to give my impressions a better test but instead I had to ski the last hour with noticebly less effectiveness since I didn't have any additional little wedges.
post #3 of 10
definitely not rocket science, but you can get a ballpark figure just using duct tape. I put it on the heel and the toe afd. If my memory serves from the last time I did and assessment, 3 pieces of duct is about a degree. As I mentioned in your boot fitter piece, a buddy of mine planes boot soles here in truckee if your looking for the service. We even do a program where I can help on snow with the assessment and communicate to him what we see. He was a aligment and boot specialist on the world cup and is the most knowlegeable person on the subject that I've met.

post #4 of 10
elouns, putting cant strips under the footbed is probably possible if you have a great deal of cant/cuff adjustment left in your boots.
post #5 of 10

Great idea! I've never tried that but I have a pair of Head boots with an allen wrench mechanism for cuff cant adjustment. I will have to look into this - the only problem I see is that my boot plate "snaps" into the boot and I will have to figure a way to put in canting either on top (I'm not sure if it's flat or contoured on top) or bottom. Pierre, if you have experience with this could you elaborate? Has anyone else used this type of alignment adjustment with success?

On a separate but related question: What do most folks here think of "dirty" canting, that is trying to accommodate alignment (temporarily or permanently) through boot cuff canting adjustments. I understand why this is frowned upon (should have the lower leg centered in the cuff for neutral ankle alignment) but it seems to me that there is information to be gained (if not permanent accommodation) from being able to play with this parameter on slope. This is especially true with some boots that have simple adjustments for cuff canting.
post #6 of 10

This is what I do for all the people that come to me for alignment. I make custom canted foot beds to create a well balanced skier. This is a relatively new system I have launched it in Aspen this year and it is available in 8 ski shops around Colorado if you want to try it. It works way better than canting under the boot. And It can be moved from boot to boot. Way more cost effective.

I basically measure pronation. and use enough of a cant to place the foot in what I call Dynamic Neutral. Where the foot is in a muscularly symmetric position inside the boot. Adjust cuffs to center on leg shafts and away you go.

If you want more info just send me a message.

In testing at buttermilk last year 34 random people were aligned and they responded with surveys about this product. Two questions were asked.
Did this product improve your skiing? Yes, 97%
Did this product improve your balance? Yes 100%

The only thing we did was measure place shims and adjust cuffs. No more than 15 minutes per person. We could not believe that it worked as well as it did.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Mosh, that's pretty interesting. There would definately be some advantages to that particular system. Does anyone have any ideas about the strengths and weaknesses of in-boot canting adjustments v. cants outside the boot? Works for some, not for others?

For me, I don't think that something inside the boot would work out very well. There's not much range left in the cuff adjustment thingy--it's pretty maxed out.

Mosh, post some more info, i'm sure everyone would be interested. Specifically, how do you define "Dynamic Neutral" and a "muscularly symmetric position?"

Holiday, I'm not sure if you got my message or not, but I'd like to get in contact with your friend in Truckee who does the planing.
post #8 of 10

I'm wondering what type of canting material you use and whether you just place or attach it under the footbed (or do you directly post or grind the bottom of the footbed)? Is there not some chance of deformation of the cant when you place it under the footbed within the liner as opposed to the top of the boot plate?
post #9 of 10
Elouns, I sent out a pm with jim's email on it. I've played with canting under the boot and can't recall exacty, but there was some reason it wasn't quite as effective. Love to hear more about what your doing mosh. Elouns, jim can answer your questions about the pros and cons. I'm pretty sure most racers at the top of there games do the external thing, but I'm still open to ideas.
cheers, Holiday
post #10 of 10
I produce internal cant shims that I call balance shims. They look like a DR shoals but they are made of firm rubber and are placed directly on the boot board. I make 12 different degrees of shims. From . 5 to 6 degrees in 1/2 degree increments. This is the fast process. I also make foot beds that have a particular degree of canting built into them. It is my experience that this is the most accurate way to effect change in how the foot works within the boot.

The cuff adjustment thing is easy. You take out the bladder and place foot beds or what ever you use inside the shell. Standing on two feet adjust the cuffs to match the angle of the leg shafts. Changing the canting inside the boot will not change this much if any.

I have been doing alignment this way for 3 years now and have had great success. It is new and does not compare with any other forms of measuring alignment. There is no measuring the center of the knee mass or any standing on two feet except checking cuffs. Yawl should check it out.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Ski Instruction & Coaching