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Stupid binding install question - Page 2

post #31 of 41
Originally Posted by 911over View Post
The things my dining room table has been subjected to !!! NEVER buying a new one. What's the point ? Sand paper was invented for dining table improvement.
Table, meet cloth.
post #32 of 41
Thread Starter 
Sorry guys I haven't had time to check back on this thread. The bindings are RXZ13. The small gap is between the plate and the bindings. I mis-typed that above. It's only the back two screws that are an issue. Do I need to break out the power tools? Like I said I don't feel right forcing it.
post #33 of 41
I had the same issue with my Cool Heats except it was the shop that gave them back to me like this. IIRC when I went back the guy used almost 20 NM to get them seated.

You might be able to thread the screws further into the plate if you take the binding off? I just replaced one of my bindings and the screws went in fairly easily because the holes were already tapped.

post #34 of 41
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the photo. I didn't have time to put the binding back on to take one. That is it exactly.

I did try using just the screws to 'pre-tap'. Maybe I didn't screw it in far enough.
post #35 of 41
Make sure the screws are not bottoming and sticking in the binding hole before you can get them all the way into the plate. This can introduce an obstacle and you will actually have to strip out the hole in the binding to crank down into the plate (no big deal, just a PITA and loss of a feel for proper torque). Best thing is to back the screw all the way out , press the binding flat to the plate, and then thread the screw in.

The binding hole doesn't really have threads, but Tyrolias usually have ridges molded in to hold the screws captive while shipping. These ridges can be enough to bind the screw and snug it within the binding hole long before it's tight in the plate.

One other trick would be to thread the screws through the binding so that they just stick out 2 mm or so, then press the screws into the holes in the plate and turn counter-clockwise to loosen as you push down on the binding. You will feel the binding move towards the ski, and then the threads will click when they engage. At that point turn clockwise to tighten down.

I have seen this same exact problem with Tyrolias even when flat mounted to the ski. There is enough bite within the binding hole to trick you into thinking the screw is down tight, when it's really only tight in the binding and not into the ski. Sounds like the same exact problem here.
post #36 of 41
Agreed, looks like the hole in the binding is too small....
post #37 of 41
I am having the same problem. So, MattL..How did you finally fix this ?
post #38 of 41
I encountered the same thing mounting Tyrolia bindings on Fischer plates.  I had to use a 5/32" drill bit, which is very slightly undersized from the recommended 4 mm, so that made the fit a bit tighter too.
The best way I found to be sure that the bindings were fastened snugly to the skis was to turn the screws in without the bindings first to sort of "tap" the hole.  After this preparation step, the bindings went on more easily.

post #39 of 41
I've encountered 2 separate issues with my flowflex binding installation whenever I've removed and replaced the bindings on the plate:

1.  The existing holes in the bindings are (I believe) too small for the screws, so you end up with the phenomenon where the screw cuts threads both in the plate and in the binding, so that you can end up in a situation like the one in the picture earlier in this thread because the screw head has screwed itself as far as it can into the binding but hasn't gotten all the way into the ski yet.  I don't know if there is a technical reason for the holes in the binding being so tight, but I just drilled those holes out to the actual outside diameter of the screw (the material is plastic) so that the screws could go through the binding without any resistance.  This made a 100% difference in the "feel" whenever I'm installing the bindings because I know that all of the resistance that I feel is in the actual plate and I can tell when the screw is tight enough.

2.  The screw length can be a possible problem--there are different length screws for different hole locations (at least that's what I've got with my '07-'08 Cold Heat with RXZ-13) (in my case, the front screws in the toepiece are the longest (and in my case, have a slightly smaller diameter head), the back screws in the toepiece and the front screws in the heelpiece are the shortest, and the rear screws in the heelpiece need to be somewhere between those; my problem when I got the skis was that there weren't any screws that seemed the appropriate for the rear of the heelpiece as the screws only stuck out about 2MM from the bottom of the binding; I replaced these with longer screws that I ground to the length needed to get maximum depth in the plate).  I think it's important to go to the trouble of doing a dry run with your screws (putting all of the screws into the binding and looking at how far they all stick out) to make sure that you've got the right ones in the right holes (they can't stick out more than 4MM from the bottom of the binding as that's the maximum screw depth per Fischer, but obviously you would want to have close to maximum depth for each screw to get maximum thread purchase and to minimize the possiblity of the screw stripping out).

Good luck.
post #40 of 41
 I found that you need an insane amount of torque to get the screws into the aluminum FlowFlex plates so that the bindings sit flat.  But it does work eventually.  Just keep cranking until there is no gap.  The holes will not strip out if you do it by hand, so feel free to lay on the torque with no fear.  Be sure you are using a true Pozi screwdriver, as it will have better bite on the screw heads.

Skibowski, the various length screws are sized so as to not impede the sliding mechanism underneath the top plate (it's a pretty complex sliding scissor thing-a-ma-jig under there).  I think the rear screws are short for a reason.
post #41 of 41
Dining room table with the leaf out.
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