Also, the bindings have three pins. Does anyone still sell boots that would fit?
Thanks for all the help - and please don't laugh at me when you see me skating by.
Yeah, I actually want to ski these! I've never been on cross-country skis before, so I won't know how slow they actually go compared to the new ones. Ignorance is bliss, you know.
What steps do I need to take to get these into skiing shape? Should I scrape the pine tar off and start fresh? Can I use normal glide wax? I know nothing about this, but really would like to set them up.
Also: I looked up 75mm 3-pin boots on e-Bay and (think) I found these in my size (and the price is right). Are these the ones I'm looking for?
|What steps do I need to take to get these into skiing shape?|
|Should I scrape the pine tar off and start fresh?|
|Can I use normal glide wax?|
|Also: I looked up 75mm 3-pin boots on e-Bay and (think) I found these in my size (and the price is right). Are these the ones I'm looking for?|
I forgot what kind they were - they were French and they had a little emblem of an airplane near the tips. Something like "Lascot." Any ideas?
MMMMMMmmmmmmm......... PINE TAR!!
The smell alone brings me back.
If so, what will I need to do to get them gliding?
- and please don't laugh at me when you see me skating by.
They sound like Authier Vampires. The plane was called Vampire, iirc.
BTW, they were wood-grain topsheet on a composite ski.
A straight router bit and table works well to tune the edges. A jointer and belt sander to flatten.
Regarding waxing: I was just planning on using glide and grip wax over a binder in the grip versus dealing with pine tar on my wood skis. You'd think Klister would be comparable to pine tar. Any concerns taking this approach? Seems like a hard base wax will seal just as well as a polyurethane or other typical wood finish.
Find some Dixie brand or other pine tar, burn it in, leave it on overnight, and the next day re-torch it while wiping off with a rag. It is fun, it smells good, and it leaves a nice hard finish which is just tacky enough to rub wax onto. No klister, wax, or polyurethane can replace pine tar.
Nordic grip waxes become glide waxes when it is warmer than their kick wax range, and stay on better than alpine waxes, which work in conjunction with a porous plastic bottom. Wax tip and tail with a cold weather nordic wax, and under the foot with the wax de Jour. On a good powder day you might wax Swix green or special blue on tip and tail and extra blue under the foot.
Hey alpinord, do those skis taper or what? I think I'm going crosseyed.
Wow, what a beautiful pair of Asnes you have there! It is wonderful that you actually own your father's skis. Take care of them as they will surely be a family heirloom. I don't have to tell you that they don't make skies like that anymore. Asnes lasted longer than most European ski manufacturers from 1922 to 1988. The last pair of wood skis they made was in 1985. Your skis, however, are from the early to mid 1970's. They were extremely well-made with hickory bottoms and lignostone edges.
I would not router or cut or sand anything if I were you. If they are ski-able, then use them on some low-risk trails (plenty of snow cover, no hills to risk running into stuff). They can take a lot of abuse, but if you DO happen to break them, bye-bye beautiful skis.
Three-pin boots are plentiful today new or used. Unlike NNN, SNS, and other newer bindings, 75 mm 3-pin were a world standard and nearly every 75 mm 3-pin bot was interchangeable with any 75 mm 3-pin binding.
A note on your bindings - those are old-school bindings for the wider touring wood skis. Later bindings (including 75 mm 3-pin) had the mounting holes closer together. Keep this in mind if you ever replace the bindings. Try to find old-school bindings.
If you XC-ski on new equipment, you will be surprised and delighted at the experience of skiing on well-made wooden skis. They provide a velvet smooth ride. They hold wax better than plastic base skis. The old 75 mm 3-pin bindings work very well and you will question the "advantages" of newer binding systems except, of course, for the convenience of step-in convenience.
Anyway, there are at least two important maintenance things that you will want to do.
First, is that you need to pin-tar your ski bottoms when you can visibly see it has worn off. You will see the worn areas on the tips and tails. If you don't know how to pine tar, leave it to a professional. I can do it for you if you are willing to send your skis to me.
Second is to block your skis when you are not using them and they are in storage. Many beautiful pair of wooden skis warped and ruined by being tossed in hot atticks without blocking. Some enthusiasts argue against blocking skis, but I still ride my original skis from 1975 and have been blocking them every year. Just Measure the widest camber between your skis when they are held gently together. Add 1" to that measurement and cut a piece of 2X4 lumber to that width put the slice of wood in the camber of the ski so that it holds your skis apart when you tie the tips and tails together.
You can also clean up the tops of your skis so they look nice. The 1960's/1970's European cross country skis were made by furniture makers, so it would be a good idea to consult a furniture maker or repair expert for advice. I use furniture lemon oil which helps them look good for a couple of weeks, but doesn't really help the chips and cracks in the varnish.
Enjoy your beautiful skis!
Here are some pics of my 1975 asnes skis. They are super fast and gorgeous! Every time I think of buying new ones I back off cause wood is so nice. I ski with people all the time who have new fancy skis and I'm always waiting for them to catch up. They also keep asking me why I get such a long glide with each stride! I tell them that u can't beat vintage wood asnes skis. Only drawback is the boots are low cut and can get cold. A few questions....
Question - does wood hold wax better than fibreglass skis?
Question - does anyone know where u can buy better insulated boots for the 3 pin bindings??
Question - I put a polar wax on the entire ski - 20 to -30 C at the start of the season and then apply a kicker wax for the temperature of the day. Would it be better to use some kind of glider wax to the tip and tail instead?? They are super fast already but is there any way to get em faster?