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mounting integrated marker ipt bindings

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
hi everyone well my new skis just came in today - Volkl tigershark 10 PS.

the bindings are integrated marker ipt 12 and they just slide in and lock very easily. the only part that needs to be done is drill 2 small holes for motion piston thing.

i thought i will bring it to the shop to do that but they want $70 for putting 2 small screws and i think that is not fair at all. i already mounted the bindings and marked the skis with supplied template for the hole.

so i think that it should be reasonable that i could do this my self (i am pretty good fabricator , skilled at auto/motorcycle/bike repairs and around the house) so drilling 2 small holes should be fine. also the holes does not hold the the bindings they are in already just the piston for the motion part.

ok so these are my thoughts and reasoning for not taking it to the shop. now here is my question instructions say to use 4.1x9.5 drill bit and that is i believe specific ski bit. so do i MUST source out the bit or there is SAE or metric equivalent i can use (with proper stoppers to prevent hole being too deep of course).

and also i was thinking some sealant or glue would be good in the hole just to make sure that he moisture does not get inside of the ski. what can i use for that

thank you Ziggy
post #2 of 22
If you trust your skills enough to ride your motorcycle on the road after wrenching on it, I would think mounting the pistons would be easy.
post #3 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by dziuggy View Post
hi everyone well my new skis just came in today - Volkl tigershark 10 PS.

the bindings are integrated marker ipt 12 and they just slide in and lock very easily. the only part that needs to be done is drill 2 small holes for motion piston thing.

i thought i will bring it to the shop to do that but they want $70 for putting 2 small screws and i think that is not fair at all. i already mounted the bindings and marked the skis with supplied template for the hole.

so i think that it should be reasonable that i could do this my self (i am pretty good fabricator , skilled at auto/motorcycle/bike repairs and around the house) so drilling 2 small holes should be fine. also the holes does not hold the the bindings they are in already just the piston for the motion part.

ok so these are my thoughts and reasoning for not taking it to the shop. now here is my question instructions say to use 4.1x9.5 drill bit and that is i believe specific ski bit. so do i MUST source out the bit or there is SAE or metric equivalent i can use (with proper stoppers to prevent hole being too deep of course).

and also i was thinking some sealant or glue would be good in the hole just to make sure that he moisture does not get inside of the ski. what can i use for that

thank you Ziggy
Do yourself a favor and save your skis. Make sure you have the proper drill bit. $10.80
post #4 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blizzboy283 View Post
Do yourself a favor and save your skis. Make sure you have the proper drill bit. $10.80
Along with a Vermont Calibrating Devise to make sure the bindings are set properly.
post #5 of 22
look at the screw in the piston arm... drill that deep.
post #6 of 22


Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
Along with a Vermont Calibrating Devise to make sure the bindings are set properly.

I have one of these. I would like to know how the calibration is checked/verified. Can't be rocket surgery, it's just a torque wrench with some specialized attachments.

BACK TO THREAD

Ziggy, here is a recent thread discussing glue for binding screws, etc.
http://forums.epicski.com/showthread.php?t=75210

Tognar also carrys the specialized bits and everything else as well as all the pertinent tech info
http://tognar.com/

As does our fellow Bear Alpinord (Slidewright)
*discount for supporters*
http://www.slidewright.com/

The most important tool to have is at your fingertips - Epicski search function, the power is yours!
post #7 of 22
Just use a sharp 5/32" bit (~4mm) and use tape to set the depth. I have drilled and mounted dozens of bindings this way. If you are good with tools, it's a trivial task.
post #8 of 22
Thread Starter 
thank you for all the swift replies it is very helpful.

i have been reading all the stickies so i might bring it to the shop for few coats of wax as well as double check operation of bindings and such. also i talked to my buddy and he has tahoe card that has quite few coupons for some of the local shops. so i need to look in to that.

other than that upon setting the preload i found that there is one more adjustment screw on the bottom of the heel side of the binding. it seems that it moves it back and forth, but it does not seem to be necessary to adjust it as only front part sets up for the boot sole size and the boots fit just fine. so i am guessing thats to change the center if preferred.

anyways thank you for all your help. now i must resist buying all the stuff so i can tune them my self.

cheers Ziggy
post #9 of 22
Ziggy, that's the forward pressure setting and it's extremely important to the binding operation. Sounds like you should definitely let a shop adjust the bindings.
post #10 of 22
Forward pressure screw needs to be set when the boot is not in the binding. It provides the correct amount of forward pressure on the boot when it is in the binding so your bindings release at the specified torque for the DIN setting you have selected. There should be an indicator of some sort with a pointer that falls within two indicators that mark a range of allowed position. Some bindings just require a position for a screw face to be flush with, not sure about the binding you have.

You set the forward pressure without the boot present, and check the range when the boot is in.

Yeah, he should have a shop do it for him, but COME ON! $70 bucks! Give to me a break.
post #11 of 22
Thread Starter 
thank you guys. i dont want to sound cheap, but $70 for 2 small 9mm screws thats a lot.

now i will take them to the shop to do full binding function check and adjust it if necessary. on top of that i will have them check the edges and do 2-3 coats of wax as well. so i am sure that i will pay $50-80 for all of that and i have no problems with it because i have no experience or tools necessary to do this and it is better of left to pros. but 1 screw i think i can safely do my self.

thank you for all of your help and patience with me as i am sure there is plenty of people (new to tuning) like me asking questions like that and maybe some of them take on too much. but i am very confident that i can deal with the screw and the other stuff will be left for the pros

cheers Ziggy
post #12 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4cznskier View Post





I have one of these. I would like to know how the calibration is checked/verified. Can't be rocket surgery, it's just a torque wrench with some specialized attachments.

BACK TO THREAD

Ziggy, here is a recent thread discussing glue for binding screws, etc.
http://forums.epicski.com/showthread.php?t=75210

Tognar also carrys the specialized bits and everything else as well as all the pertinent tech info
http://tognar.com/

As does our fellow Bear Alpinord (Slidewright)
*discount for supporters*
http://www.slidewright.com/

The most important tool to have is at your fingertips - Epicski search function, the power is yours!

You have one? Those things are like $3700 new and they seem to have an almost monopolistic hold on ski shops. Their tuning demos talk more about tort lawsuits then my first year torts class in law school.
post #13 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blizzboy283 View Post
You have one? Those things are like $3700 new and they seem to have an almost monopolistic hold on ski shops. Their tuning demos talk more about tort lawsuits then my first year torts class in law school.

There is, I think, 3 of them on ebay right now. I have seen them go for anywhere from $10 to about $250.
Example;

http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-Vermont-Ski...1%7C240%3A1318

I got to thinking after I made this post and looked in the manual and it does mention using a simple dead weight to test it's accuracy. (It's just a friggin' torque wrench, and a basic one at that) I have only played around with it, really have'nt put it through it's paces. There is also a couple of the tilting vices for them listed right now too. In fact there was a buy it now on one for about $75 that ended this morn with no takers. The liabilty is charging the public to use it to test/adjust their bindings for them and standing behind your work right? Takes a lot of expensive insurance to back that up - not goin' there. I would'nt bother to sue myself - not $worth$ the trouble.
post #14 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4cznskier View Post
There is, I think, 3 of them on ebay right now. I have seen them go for anywhere from $10 to about $250.
Example;

http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-Vermont-Ski...1%7C240%3A1318

I got to thinking after I made this post and looked in the manual and it does mention using a simple dead weight to test it's accuracy. (It's just a friggin' torque wrench, and a basic one at that) I have only played around with it, really have'nt put it through it's paces. There is also a couple of the tilting vices for them listed right now too. In fact there was a buy it now on one for about $75 that ended this morn with no takers. The liabilty is charging the public to use it to test/adjust their bindings for them and standing behind your work right? Takes a lot of expensive insurance to back that up - not goin' there. I would'nt bother to sue myself - not $worth$ the trouble.
Haha great find. I forgot about eBay I remember seeing some cheap ones on there before but I totally forgot looking for calibrators on there. Yeah but the liability falls on the ski shop not Vermont safety, those guys are making a killing. I still can't believe the price the charge.

Pm me what you used to search for the tilting ski vise as I could only see one.

Thanks!
post #15 of 22
There are many pieces parts of VCD's around. I had a set up that was thrown into the deal when I bought my Montana tuner, and I couldn't give it away.

I am not sure Vermont Safety is making a killing, they do have a pretty limited client base.
post #16 of 22
Ghost, so you understand why a shop wants $70...

the second a tech touches that binding, the shop assumes MASSIVE amounts of liability. A lawsuit could cost hundreds of thousands of dollars, the 'threat' is real. People sue. Lawyers cost money, even if you win you still lose. Get it?

Add to that the 'customer' didn't buy anything from you... so you assume the liability without having gained anything, make the slightest error and you owe your 'new customer' a new pair of skis + assume liability. FUN!
post #17 of 22
I could understand $40.
It's not like the shop has to buy more insurance than it already has just because he has to inspect one more binding and drill two holes.
In fact by charging a reasonable cost for labour, the shop will recoup a larger portion of it's insurance cost.
post #18 of 22
If it was $40 you'd say "I can understand $20..."

by the way, I charge $45...
post #19 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom View Post
Ghost, so you understand why a shop wants $70...

the second a tech touches that binding, the shop assumes MASSIVE amounts of liability. A lawsuit could cost hundreds of thousands of dollars, the 'threat' is real. People sue. Lawyers cost money, even if you win you still lose. Get it?

Add to that the 'customer' didn't buy anything from you... so you assume the liability without having gained anything, make the slightest error and you owe your 'new customer' a new pair of skis + assume liability. FUN!
Quoted for truth. We shops cannot touch a binding without doing a calibration test (at least that is what MY insurance carrier says, and it is one that deals with the ski industry). I have been through a law suit (no fault of mine, anyone who even looked at the skis was named) and do nat care to go down that road again. Shops have to really cover thier asses in this time of lawsuits.
post #20 of 22
No, in fact I had my daughter's bindings mounted on her Porsches at my local shop, despite the fact that it needed NO drilling. I don't mind paying a reasonable price to help keep a local shop in business. I just don't believe in being ripped off.

My Machete Gs had their FF17+ put on at another local shop.
post #21 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
There are many pieces parts of VCD's around. I had a set up that was thrown into the deal when I bought my Montana tuner, and I couldn't give it away.

I am not sure Vermont Safety is making a killing, they do have a pretty limited client base.

Phil, do they not supply this tool to pretty much every ski shop in the country? $3700 a pop will surely allow them to be highly profitable. That thing is a glorified torque wrench.

The tuning "demo' they instruct is literally as much law as anyone of my law school classes.
post #22 of 22
Sports Authority/Gart only charges $30. I have no idea why people pay these astronomically high charges to mount bindings. There is a shop near me that charges $100 for a mount if you bring outside bindings. I will gladly never give them a dime of my money.
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