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Railflex 11 v Railflex 12?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Searched and couldn't find any specific discussion on this question: I've seen a couple references to 11 din Railflex II bindings being "lighter" than 12 din or higher. Does that mean plastic parts where you'd want metal, or what? Any real difference to a 170 lb skier who typically sets bindings in the 7 range? Any conventional wisdom that leads most skiers to prefer the 12 din over the 11 din, where they're going to be skiing a couple notches down anyway?

Thanks in advance to Railflex wizards.
post #2 of 12
Nope, not much difference at your weight and DIN setting.

Mike
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mike. Oh yeah one other factoid - the RF11 box says "superlight". Probably just hype but thought worth asking.
post #4 of 12
Differences between the DIN 11 and the DIN 12 Railflex bindings vary with the year and model. The current RFD 12 and RFD 11 both have the LD (light diagonal) heel. The RF 10 has the SL heel which does not rotate in the same fashion. The previous RF 11 did not have the LD heel either. The superlight refers to the SL heel which is lighter but does not rotate in the same fashion as the diagonal heel.
However, prior to the RF 11 there was the SLD 11 which did have the diagonal heel.
In summary:
DIN 12 Railflex bindings always had the diagonal heel.
DIN 10 Railflex bindings never had the diagonal heel.
DIN 11 Railflex bindings with a "D" at the end of their name (RFD or SLD) did have a diagonal heel while the RF 11 did not have a diagonal heel.
I hope this helps.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Does help, thanks.

The box also says diagonal -- both superlight and diagonal -- which I assume is a good thing. I vaguely recall when I got these thinking there was a reason to go above 10 din, it must be b/c of the diagonal heel.

Thanks again.
post #6 of 12
Again, according to Tyrolia if it is an RFD 11, it will have the diagonal heel. If it is an RF 11, it will not have a diagonal heel.
Tyrolia calls all of these bindings Full Diagonal which is somewhat misleading. They all have the diagonal toe release, but not all have the LD heel.
I struggled with this when I tried to figure out which binding to buy a couple of years back.
The easiest way to tell if the binding has the LD heel is to try to rotate the heel side to side by hand. If it moves it is the LD heel. If it doesn't rotate it is the SL heel.
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
NOW I get it, thanks. It's sitting in the basement at home and I'lll check it out this evening.
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by quickk9 View Post
The easiest way to tell if the binding has the LD heel is to try to rotate the heel side to side by hand. If it moves it is the LD heel. If it doesn't rotate it is the SL heel.
A newbie question - how important (or what is the performance? / safety? / significance? ) of having the LD heel?

I have the Elan version (EL11 which does not have the D in the heel ) so am interested in finding out.

thanks!
post #9 of 12
The LD heel is a major plus in my opinion. Not only does it allow a few extra release scenarios, but it also does a good job avoiding pre-release in many cases. It can accommodate a good amount of lateral load and still keep you in the binding. The LD12 series is my favorite binding in recent years.
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Any concurring or dissenting views on the diagonal heel?

Turns out I have an "RF" 11 not "RFD" 11 and need to mount up a new ski.

Already have one bad knee, don't want another.
post #11 of 12
The diagonal heel release is designed to increase reliability in forward twisting falls. This type of fall almost never results in a knee injury. For protecting the knee it is most important to have the full diagonal toe release as it is the rearward fall that is the most dangerous. I believe that the RF 11 has this feature.
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone for the info here. A little hunting in the garage and I'm in luck: found a pair of RFD11's on a kids rock ski / loaner that sees very little use. I'll move those to the new ski, and replace with the RF11s on the rock skis.

Cosmetically a little strange to put the shiny new RF11s on the beat-up ski, and the scuffed-up RFD11s on the shiny new ski. But functionally, why not use the better engineered heelpiece? Any durability issues, or should just assume if they pass the release test I'm better off with the older binding's diagonal heel?
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