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New skis - What should I do?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Lots of questions. Bare with me, I'm new to this!!

I have two new pairs of skis I am debuting this year. Dynastar Mythic Riders, and Trouble Makers.

I have read some of the threads in this forum and it appears it might be a good idea to get a shop-tune and then just clean up the edges as needed, on my own, after that. Is this correct, or do I just prep them myself? How do Dynastars come from the factory - do they already have the beveled edge at a certain degree?

How is Colorado Ski and Golf? I bought my boots there. They seem like they run a top shelf operation, as far as I can tell. Should I get one of their tunes and then do a couple more hot waxes myself after that? Which tune?

From their website:

"Professional Tune $30 (Base Repair, Stone Grind, Sharpen and Polish Edges, Machine Wax) Performance Tune $20 (Stone Grind, Sharpen and Polish Edges, Machine Wax) Hand Wax $10 (Hot Iron Application) $10 Machine Wax No Charge Base Weld $5/inch Binding Mounting and Release Check (Half price with new purchase) $30 Telemark Binding Installation $30 Binding Release Check and Adjustment $10 Pole Basket Replacement $5 P-TEX, Edge and Base Repair QUOTE Miscellaneous Repairs $35/hour + Materials"

Thanks for any suggestions. I'm trying to get into caring for my stuff they way I should have been doing it all along. Previously, I would just hot wax once every 5-7 times and sharpen my edges (probably incorrectly) with a cheap, $15, swix tool.
post #2 of 7
Go skiing. If you have the time, wax your skis, then go skiing. After you ski, wax your skis again.

If you have the tools and know-how, inspect the quality of the tune they currently have. Don't just bring them in to some shop and expect what you'll get back will be better.
post #3 of 7
1--Hot wax the skis with some universal ski wax. If you don't know how to wax, post here again. Two don'ts--don't overheat the bases, and don't use the Mrs.' favorite steam iron.

2--When the shop guys aren't busy, ask them to check the bases of your skis with a true bar to see if the bases are indeed flat, or at least flat the outer inch on each side. (Some concavity in the broad tip is OK.) Ask them to check the angles of the base and side bevels.

Ask around or post here about the favored base bevel and side bevel for your snow conditions and your skiing style. I'd suggest 0.5° base bevel on Colorado dry snow, and 2° side bevel for good bite on hard pack, but if you're more of a skidder than carver, less aggressive angles might work better for you.

Post here for some very basic ski tuning tools and techniques. I suggest a guide and a stone for the base edge to remove burrs, and a guide, file, and stone for the sides.
post #4 of 7
What Garrett said...
post #5 of 7
Start reading the waxing and tuning threads. Get an iron , some wax of your choice and for best results make or buy a tuning bench .
For the new to tuning . Learn to keep your skis' edges polished and do your own waxing. Let the pros do the tougher work and if you want to invest in more tuning gear you can do it all by yourself.
Those prices do seem to be very fair for the tune and grind but that would be needed only after damage, not liking the tune they came with or to freshen your bases with some new structure.
post #6 of 7
I have simple how-to info in my Tuning Tips section of my website. Check out the Tuning in a Nutshell FAQ, it's easy. Then figure that most of the tools will last 3-5 years of more and do the math based on how much you ski if it makes sense to you to buy tuning equipment or take it to a shop.
post #7 of 7
Colorado Freeride/Racer's Edge does really good work in Breck. But you won't need a full tune for a while.
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