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Does Binding Position Affect Tail Slip

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I own the Head im 78's with Mojo 12 binding mounted to factory (I assume neutral BOF) specs. Last season I found the tail slipping (drifting) on steep sort of icy hardpack at Squaw and at Jackson even after a new tune.

Will moving the binding position change the tail slip and will forward or back recommended to decrease the tail drift? How much should the binging be moved?

My profile:
im78 171 length
height 5'10"
wt 166 lbs
skill level advanced 7+?

ski medium fast, but not downhill out of control
most terrain, bumps, bowls, groomers to and from off trail, no trees.

Thanks,
Bluebear
post #2 of 12
IMO the ski seems a good match for your stats. and if the mount is to spec. w/ a good tune then moving the clamps prolly won't help the issue if you follow my drift;-)
post #3 of 12
Just because they were just tuned, doesn't mean they were tuned correctly.

Tell the shop Tech what you were feeling and have him check the edges.
post #4 of 12

What they said...

...however, I'll give you a hint: It ain't the binding, it ain't the tune, it's your technique...
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
SkiRacer55,
Thanks. I got your drift (hint) and you are probably correct. I was surprised with the performance/ reaction of the im78's because I have not experienced this before with my old Volkl 5 stars, or demos of im 82's, Watea 84's, several K2's, etc.

There's always next season to have fun and improve technique.

Thanks all for replies.
Bluebear
post #6 of 12
Moving the bindings can substantially change the way skis react. Suggest you look through other threads on the site for more information about binding position. It has been asked many times before.

Lou
post #7 of 12
I am not certain what BOF neutral means, but your assumption would mean that all skis from all manufacturers are mounted relatively the same. That is far from correct.

What is the definition of BOF neutral?

Seem my paper under the ask the boot guys for more information.

Lou
post #8 of 12
Head's factory lines are not BOF, usually behind by a ways. So if anything, you should have more control of your tails if at factory line. Think rather three possibilities:

1) Your tune. Did they change factory settings (which are weird)? Bevel it off the tails too far?
2) Your technique. This may be about not keeping the tails loaded at the last third of the turn.
3) Your skis. These models are wonderful, but not known as ice skates, frankly. Their strength is maneuverability and all turn shapes in groomed through crud, manky snow. If you get them retuned, go for a 1/2 at least, a 1/3 if your carving skills are developed.

Good luck!
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Lou,
Thanks for your suggestion. I'll search other threads for binding position and BOF.

Beyond,
I'm confident the initial tune was at factory specs because I purchased the im78's from a very reputible source on this website and I am very pleased with service, etc.

I noticed this skidding on my first day on the im78's during 4 days of hard skiing at Squaw, Heavenly, and Alpine. Had them retuned in Jackson before a week skiing there and experienced similar skidding.

It is very likely they are exposing a weakness in my technique, but I'll have them retuned at Snowbird by a top shop I support and have high confidence.

Thanks both of you for your replies.
Bluebear
post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebear View Post
I'm confident the initial tune was at factory specs because I purchased the im78's from a very reputible source on this website and I am very pleased with service, etc.
What I meant was that Head factory specs/skis as shipped are closer to 1/1, far as I know. Several threads on this. Check with Atomicman for details. But if you purchased from source on Epic, odds are they reset to 1/2, which should work well. And if that's so, and the snow at Jackson was softer than Squaw (good assumption), unlikely to be tune per se.
post #11 of 12
If for some reason your bindings are mounted even a little too far forward, from my experience, the tails will tend to wash out.
JF
post #12 of 12
Skiing ice is really tune dependent. If you have a crap tune and burred edges it is pretty horrible. First off just get the things reground to your specifications (probably 1 base / 2 edge). You could go with a more aggressive tune like .75/3 but these aren't race skis and it might screw up the ski off piste. Further more screwing with the base bevel might actually make your problem worse if you are not carving cleanly. If you are tail pushing you might get more chatter and less smooth skidding with a less forgiving tune.

Washing the tails while you are mounted back (at the line is back on heads) indicates you are probably forcing the skis to turn tighter than they are willing to do a clean carve on that ice. I don't know if there is anything wrong with that or not, but if you want the tails to follow tips then you have to be patient with edging and can't use much rotary.

If you ski 50/50 on/off piste on this ski I wouldn't worry about it.
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