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Ski tuning kits

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know of a site online where I can get a good quality (but cheap ) ski tuning kit?

In it I'll need:

-Adjustable edge bevel guide
-Very fine diamond stone
-Gummi stone
-Plastic scraper
-Copper, nylon, and horsehair brushes
-Assorted waxes (HF a bonus)

I already have an iron and vice.

Will I need anything else? I plan on touching up and waxing my race skis.

Thanks
post #2 of 25
Moved over to the tuning area.
My recommendation is that you connect with our expert tuners and EpicSki sponsors. We have some deals through them and great tuning advice.

Can't go wrong with that!
post #3 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by lkwinnipesaukee View Post
Does anyone know of a site online where I can get a good quality (but cheap ) ski tuning kit?

In it I'll need:

-Adjustable edge bevel guide
-Very fine diamond stone
-Gummi stone
-Plastic scraper
-Copper, nylon, and horsehair brushes
-Assorted waxes (HF a bonus)

I already have an iron and vice.

Will I need anything else? I plan on touching up and waxing my race skis.
http://www.fktools-us.com/
or
http://tognar.com

Should have what you need.

My $.02 is that after half a dozen years of sharpening and waxing my own skis I realized that my hand-tunes were not nearly as good as what the shop can do with the Wintersteiger in 5 minutes.
post #4 of 25
Won't you just need a sharp ice skates for Lake Winnipesaukee?

Do you need an adjustable guide for base and side edge or side edge only? For the former, a Tools4Boards Razor or Xact included in a tuning kit will get you well down the road. If just side edge and only needing a couple angles, you might consider an SVST bevel guide with a shim or two.

By becoming an active supporter of EpicSki, we offer a 10% discount and it'll go on top of current sales and combination packages we carry.
post #5 of 25
Both Alpinord's site (slidewright / tools4boards) and another epicski supporter site, racewax.com, have what you're looking for. I've dealt with and been happy with service and pricing at both, and of course the pricing is a little sweeter if you're an epicski supporter. Alpinord carries his tools4boards, and racewax has the FKS multituner.
post #6 of 25
Thread Starter 
Mod, sorry for posting in the wrong section.

Alpinord, I'd be glad to become a supporter of ES and go through your shop.

I need a guide for the base AND side edges for multiple skis with multiple angles, so I think it would be more economical to get an adjustable guide.

Any recommendations on a kit?

Thanks
post #7 of 25
In that case, I'd suggest either the T4B Tuning Station or Deluxe Tuning Station (with added cork/brush) and the Razor. (Instructions are under 'Resources' tab at the top of pages). You'll get the guide, a large plexi and a steel scraper, aluminum oxide stone and file. Add a Diamond or two, gummy, brushes, wax (definitely include Maplus Race Base Medium-purple ), etc as needed.

This page explains the various Maplus waxes and has a chart.

To get the discount:
1) become and EpicSki Supporter
2) Set up an account at our store and email me this is done.
3) We'll add the discount to the account and let you know when done.
4) Re-login and all prices will be 10% less.

Let us know if you have any questions.
post #8 of 25
A-N, Any chance of a grip wax thermometer/scale/table?
post #9 of 25
Good idea.....thanks!

In the 2008-09 Maplus Product (page 13) & Waxing (pages 46 & 47) manuals (under Resources) there are grip wax charts.

See what you think there and I'll get it added to the Wax page.
post #10 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
Good idea.....thanks!

In the 2008-09 Maplus Product (page 13) & Waxing (pages 46 & 47) manuals (under Resources) there are grip wax charts.

See what you think there and I'll get it added to the Wax page.
That looks like the same chart in either spot. It should work.
post #11 of 25
Is there any point to getting base edge stuff since sharpening is done on the side edge?

The only time you are going to touch the base edge is after a base grind (which isn't exactly a regular occurrence) and you can get the shop to do the base edges at the same time.
post #12 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by narc View Post
Is there any point to getting base edge stuff since sharpening is done on the side edge?

The only time you are going to touch the base edge is after a base grind (which isn't exactly a regular occurrence) and you can get the shop to do the base edges at the same time.
A few reasons why you might want your own base beveling tools:

1) If you prefer to set the base bevel yourself
2) If you wish to try different bevels (increasing, not decreasing)
3) If you need to fix a screw up

A couple other advantages of adjustable guides are they can be use for scraper sharpeners (0°/90°) and sidewall cutters (5 to 7°/85 to 83° Euro/95 to 97° SVST) when coupled w/coarse or panzer files......
post #13 of 25
I have a large assortment of kits with quality tools. Check out my selection.
post #14 of 25
You could check out.....

RaceWerks
www.race-werks.com

Race Place
www.the-raceplace.com
post #15 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
In that case, I'd suggest either the T4B Tuning Station or Deluxe Tuning Station (with added cork/brush) and the Razor.
Why do you recommend the Razor over the Xact?

Thanks.
post #16 of 25
In a lot of cases it gets down to a personal preference or coin toss between the Razor (pegs) & Xact (dial an angle) since they have virtually the same multi-angle capability and reliable accuracy. The Xact can only hold the included file for base beveling (and anything for side edges), while the Razor is more versatile for base beveling due to it's ability to hold any file or stone up to 5 or 6mm thick (IIRC). In this case, I think it'd be the better choice for lkwinnipesaukee of the two.

Here's an EpicSki Razor and Xact comparison thread. There's also some additional discussion in our Tuning & Waxing Tips. Just type 'Razor' into the search field.

HTH
post #17 of 25
I have bought from both Alpinord and Doctor D and been happy with both.

I have the Xact mulitool, which I mostly chose cause a dial seemed simpler and there is no chance of losing pegs. But...
I don't really like the way it holds for base bevel - it doesnt seem solid enough for secure angles. That is mostly a theoretical problem, since it holds very well for side work, and that is almost all I do. It holds files, stones, or diamond stones, provided you get the short or medium ones. One other minor issue -- after a couple of seasons of use, the numbers on the dial are getting hard to read. I guess I would still get another one, though.
post #18 of 25
Artech.com
post #19 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post
A-N, Any chance of a grip wax thermometer/scale/table?
Here ya go.
post #20 of 25
Thread Starter 
Let me ask you guys something. If my skis edges are beveled to one angle, if I try to change those angles, will it work, or will it screw up my ski?
post #21 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by lkwinnipesaukee View Post
Let me ask you guys something. If my skis edges are beveled to one angle, if I try to change those angles, will it work, or will it screw up my ski?
I am not the most qualified to answer this, but from what I understand, it is possible to increase base bevel by hand, but you need to have the ski ground back to flat before trying to decrease it.

Many will tell you that it is easier to try to maintain the edges yourself, rather than making radical changes.
post #22 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by narc View Post
Is there any point to getting base edge stuff since sharpening is done on the side edge?

The only time you are going to touch the base edge is after a base grind (which isn't exactly a regular occurrence) and you can get the shop to do the base edges at the same time.
While you don't want to file your base edges once the angle has been set, you may want to polish them with a ceramic and/or Arkansas stone. To do that, you'll want a bevel guide.

Polished edges stay sharper longer, are more resistant to damage and are faster. If you want to keep your edges in top condition, polish after every day on the slopes.

For base edges, I start with a 400 grit ceramic stone and then finish with a hard Arkansas stone (1200 grit I think). For side edges, I use a medium diamond stone (220 grit), followed by a fine diamond stone (325 grit), followed by the Arkansas stone.
post #23 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by lkwinnipesaukee View Post
Let me ask you guys something. If my skis edges are beveled to one angle, if I try to change those angles, will it work, or will it screw up my ski?
You won't screw up your ski (provided you use a guide of some sort to set your bevel angles), but you may change the way the ski feels. As long as you understand the effect that your change is going to have on the ski, you are good to go.

MEfree30's got it right; you can increase angles as you desire, but to decrease you'll have to flatten the ski and start over. For that reason, you should be somewhat careful. If you over-bevel it isn't the end of the world, but it is some work to go back (or money if you have your local ski shop bail you out).
post #24 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffda View Post
You won't screw up your ski (provided you use a guide of some sort to set your bevel angles), but you may change the way the ski feels. As long as you understand the effect that your change is going to have on the ski, you are good to go.

MEfree30's got it right; you can increase angles as you desire, but to decrease you'll have to flatten the ski and start over. For that reason, you should be somewhat careful. If you over-bevel it isn't the end of the world, but it is some work to go back (or money if you have your local ski shop bail you out).
Ummm.. he may be asking about side bevels, which are easier to fiddle with than base bevels.
post #25 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdf View Post
Ummm.. he may be asking about side bevels, which are easier to fiddle with than base bevels.
Right. If you want to reduce the bevel on a side edge, you obviously don't need to flatten the ski. Just take magic marker and color the edge. Then file until you no longer see marker.
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