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Salomon Driver Suspension plate mounting question

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I have a new project in mind. I want to mount a Salomon Driver suspension plate on my Ti Powers to replace the S900s that are currently on them now. This is so I can mount S977s, the toes of which are missing the Driver toe shims (I put the toe shims under the DR9 toes that came with the suspension plate), because I want the S900s to be available for other skis that I don't want to stack as high.

Anyway, the heel of the suspension plate has five screws, the rear two of which are fixed holes, which is straight forward enough, but the other three screws pass through floating bushing thingees, which move fore and aft so the ski can bend more freely, mitigating the flat spot under the boot. This is the source of my conundrum, do I drill the holes so the bushings are centered, or should the holes be to the fore, or to the aft of the range the bushings?
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post #2 of 12
I am trying to understand the question. One, I wouldn't mount a suspension on a Volant, it will deaden it even more (I was with Volant when the Suspension came out and found it was not a good combo). What I have done, I have used Suspension toe set up, snapped off the connection beam between the toe and the heel and just used a driver+ plate for the heel. I am not sure that answers your question or even helps you at all.
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
I am trying to understand the question. One, I wouldn't mount a suspension on a Volant, it will deaden it even more (I was with Volant when the Suspension came out and found it was not a good combo). What I have done, I have used Suspension toe set up, snapped off the connection beam between the toe and the heel and just used a driver+ plate for the heel. I am not sure that answers your question or even helps you at all.
Thanks for the input Phil. However, what some call the deadness of Volants, I experience as smoothness (which is why I love them so), so that isn't an issue for me. These are kind of my early season all mountain rock skis anyway. Also, I have no Drive + plates sitting around.

All I want to know is whether the bushings should be centered or not. Do you recall?
post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by volantaddict View Post
Thanks for the input Phil. However, what some call the deadness of Volants, I experience as smoothness (which is why I love them so), so that isn't an issue for me. These are kind of my early season all mountain rock skis anyway. Also, I have no Drive + plates sitting around.

All I want to know is whether the bushings should be centered or not. Do you recall?
There is a difference between 'smooth" and a a "neutered slug on valium"

The bushings should be centered. IF you need to go this way, try them with the bridge locked and un locked to see which is better. And these do require a different mounting jig than a traditional 957/977 jig.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
There is a difference between 'smooth" and a a "neutered slug on valium"

The bushings should be centered. IF you need to go this way, try them with the bridge locked and un locked to see which is better. And these do require a different mounting jig than a traditional 957/977 jig.
I never use mounting gigs, I just measure once then ....oh crap!

If I had a set of Driver toe shims I wouldn't bother probably, but I am a little curious how they will feel with the plates, and hate having two sets of suspension plates sitting around like junk!

So do you think locking the bridge will make them more lively or less?
post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by volantaddict View Post
I never use mounting gigs, I just measure once then ....oh crap!

If I had a set of Driver toe shims I wouldn't bother probably, but I am a little curious how they will feel with the plates, and hate having two sets of suspension plates sitting around like junk!

So do you think locking the bridge will make them more lively or less?
Locking the bridge will make them less lively.
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the insight Phil. Now I just need to pick up my bit from the sharpener.
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
There is a difference between 'smooth" and a "neutered slug on valium".
Phil, you missed your calling.

Peter Keelty's got nothing on you.

Launch a ski-test sight with such metaphors, and you've got my subscription $$'s.
post #9 of 12
Out of curiosity, anyone ever take the factory plates off V2 Volants and replace them with anything like Deflex or more recent?
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post
Out of curiosity, anyone ever take the factory plates off V2 Volants and replace them with anything like Deflex or more recent?
I've never heard of it, but I don't know why anyone would, the Powerlight plates are exceptional if you ask me, except for the thin plastic layer on top; it tends to pull away from the rest of the plate when you screw the bindings in.

Powerlights have the same sort of floating bushings that the Salomon suspension plates have, but in a different configuration.
post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by volantaddict View Post
I've never heard of it, but I don't know why anyone would, the Powerlight plates are exceptional if you ask me, except for the thin plastic layer on top; it tends to pull away from the rest of the plate when you screw the bindings in.

Powerlights have the same sort of floating bushings that the Salomon suspension plates have, but in a different configuration.
and with out the dampening effect.
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
and with out the dampening effect.
Yeah, it seems like the placement of the floating bushings is more logical. The Salomon has them on the front and the center of the heel plate and the toe is completely fixed, whereas the Powerlights have the fixed point in the center of the plate with the floaters fore and aft, and on both the heel and the toe sections.
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