Originally Posted by Flying Fossil
The official issue is that it causes the ski to pick up dirt. That being said most tuning is irrelevant other than to knock off a few hundredths in the race course. That being a timed run that actually matters in some way. Most top skiers tune very little if at all. I train with kids in the 80 pt range FIS and when I ask them what kind of wax they use they say "anything I can get". Yet these are kids that actually do the things on skis that erudite professionals spend hours debating on these forums. I would say precise ski tuning is the province of skiers on national teams who have paid ski techs doing it for them or anal old men with $$ and delusions. So go ahead ski it off, don't worry about it.
Ski tuning is not waxing. Ski tuning is setting the geometry of your base/base edge and side edge and keeping them sharp.
waxing is self explanatory.
For spring wet snow this time of year it is imperative to get as much of the wax as possible into the base not on it. You must have as much structure exposed as possible to minimize the suction created by the additional water layer in spring snow.
You can't tell me you enjoy the start and stop erractic behavior of your skis on wet spring snow.
I 1st rotobrush with a brass roto, then brush out with a brass combo brush. I then crayon a mixture of Demoninator slush and Demnator Basix 99 yellow. I then iron in extremely well and the last pass I use fiberlene between the iron and base.
After sitting overnight, I first scrape, then rotobrush wiht a stiff horsehair roto, scrape some more and roto again and then polish with a short soft nylon black brush.
I skied Sunday at Alpental, it may have reached 55-60 degrees. I started on my Head i.sl Rd's for the groomed morning and as the snow softened and became bumpier I switched to my Monster 88 (both pair prepared as above)All I can tell you is i had none of the sticky start/stop eractic behavior of a overwaxed or non-waxed ski even into the afternoon as the snow deteriorated