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Re-mount bindings in same holes?

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
I have a set of skis that were drilled once before I got them (Look P10). The bindings I plan to use, Look NX10, have the same toe piece but different heel piece. The hole pattern for the toe piece is exactly the same.

Is it safe to mount the new binding toe in the same holes? Would it be inclined to pull out easier?
post #2 of 18
Heck yeah. If any holes strip when you tighten then, put in some epoxy and steel wool.
post #3 of 18
If that's the case, then why did my ski shop tell me they couldn't remount my bindings after they ripped out of my skis last season? They told me they'd tried various options (not sure what), but that none made them comfortable.
post #4 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusky View Post
If that's the case, then why did my ski shop tell me they couldn't remount my bindings after they ripped out of my skis last season? They told me they'd tried various options (not sure what), but that none made them comfortable.
Uh, because they didn't try the steel wool and epoxy fix????
post #5 of 18
Don't take any Hexcels to that shop to be mounted.
post #6 of 18
Once ripped out I wouldn't feel comfortable either. They were probably drilled too big to begin with.
post #7 of 18

It's the age of composites!

Hey!

Don't be so eager to find fault

Quality structural epoxy (not five minute!) to fill a hole will be as good or better than the original. (OK A screw into a fresh drilled metal top sheet is a pretty secure fastening)

Think about it. Many, many bindings are mounted with short, self tapping screws through a few layers of resin and fiber and then into fir or other wood core. Good epoxy, with a fiber matrix (yes, steel wool is a fiber) will hold screws "Better" than ANY foam core ski!

Don't worry, be happy

CalG
post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cgrandy View Post
Hey!

Good epoxy, with a fiber matrix (yes, steel wool is a fiber) will hold screws "Better" than ANY foam core ski!

Don't worry, be happy

CalG
I agree in that I would ski them personally, but I would worry about a friend, and never do it if I had a shop.

JB Weld epoxy and steel wool, at your own risk. The ski will probably break first.
post #9 of 18
Are the holes in good condition? Were they previously over-torqued? Is the top-sheet rising or bulged around the holes, or is everything still flush? Is there any debris in the holes that would signify a cracking core/stripped hole? what skis? Metal in the topsheet? Can you clearly see the threads in the holes? are they puuurdy?

those would be my questions. If it met my expectations, I would use the holes again... with steel-wool and JBweld.
post #10 of 18
Back in the old days, helicoils were the answer.
post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by samurai View Post
Are the holes in good condition? Were they previously over-torqued? Is the top-sheet rising or bulged around the holes, or is everything still flush? Is there any debris in the holes that would signify a cracking core/stripped hole? what skis? Metal in the topsheet? Can you clearly see the threads in the holes? are they puuurdy?

those would be my questions. If it met my expectations, I would use the holes again... with steel-wool and JBweld.

Everything appears to be in good condition. I myself took the previous bindings off. All the screws came out cleanly without a problem. There is definitely not anything abnormal: just clean holes in the ski. It is a K2 burnin luv, so I think it does have a metal layer in the ski.

I should say I will not be doing the work myself, so the shop will have their say. I just wanted to see what the general consensus was about remounting in the same holes. One stupid question: is the steel wool used in the hole to provide more strength for the screw to set in?
post #12 of 18
Steel wool provides a matrix for the epoxy. I would use something other than jb weld. Mostly because I have lots of West Epoxy and adjucts for it. JB should work and is easy to get. JB is already a paste and may not NEED the steel wool.
post #13 of 18
I move bindings between skis all the time & have never had one rip out. I only do it on skis that have a metal layer in them and I always hand tighten the screws to prevent stripping the hole. It helps that I've been having my bindings mounted at a shop that does a great job drilling and tapping the binding holes.
post #14 of 18
JB Weld can repair an engine block...youll be alright.
post #15 of 18
Done right, the new mount can easily be stronger than the original.
post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2 ski View Post
Uh, because they didn't try the steel wool and epoxy fix????
See below...

Quote:
Originally Posted by newfydog View Post
Once ripped out I wouldn't feel comfortable either. They were probably drilled too big to begin with.
Wouldn't touch it without...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fudman22 View Post
Back in the old days, helicoils were the answer.
HELL YEAH!! Best answer right here.
post #17 of 18
On mine, there was something about the binding ripping out sideways causing the issue. I slammed into a tree in case anyone's not aware, following that by crashing over a pile of logs. That was the cause of the toe piece ripping out. They'd told me they were going to try helicoils. I've replaced the skis, so the drilled skis are waiting for anyone who wants to try epoxy, etc. The shop MAY have been extra concerned because it was THEIR drilling that ripped out and they knew I ended up seriously injured and, although it was the tree that got me not their drilling, they may be worried about any future issues with the re-drilling.
post #18 of 18
no problem as long as there is no spinning.
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