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WTB-Clipless Pedals.

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
Just like it says, need some clipless pedals.

I'm not really sure of the differences between ATB or road pedals, but I do know that the shoes are not compatible. I was told to go with MTB shoes, as they are a hell of a lot easier to walk in.
post #2 of 27
What type of riding are you going to be doing? Off road MTB, city riding, fast road riding?, The shoe pedal combo you want will depend on that.
post #3 of 27
"Trainer" shoes like the Lake CX115, 125, will take both road and MTB cleats and still have walking lugs.

Road shoes: stiff and light which means no hot spots during rides but hard to walk in, easy click-in into road pedals. Rudimentary toe and heel walking lugs.

Trainer shoes: heavier but better lugs, easy click into MTB pedals, slightly more difficult click into road pedals because walking lugs on toe interfere with a 'scooping' action on the click.

MTB shoes: heavier yet, easy click into MTB pedals, no road.

SPD sandals: summertime mac daddy comfort.
post #4 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrash View Post
What type of riding are you going to be doing? Off road MTB, city riding, fast road riding?, The shoe pedal combo you want will depend on that.
Fast road riding with almost a city bias.

I mentioned the MTB shoes only because I've been told they are easier to walk in, and it seems like they are always cheaper then road shoes.
post #5 of 27
See if you can find Time ATACs. The cleats can go to a large pedal (Z series) or smaller ones like the Alium. Any SPD-drilled shoe will fit the ATAC cleat.
post #6 of 27
I have some older carbon Time ATACs just gathering dust. If interested I'll post em up.

I prefer Crank Bros. pedals. I have some magnesium K2 pedals (shimano 747 clones) on my road bike.

FWIW I ride MTB shoes and pedals on my road bike. I avoid the MTB shoes with cleats for road use. The roads are rather poor around here. No bike shoe either road or MTB is good for walking.
post #7 of 27
If I were doing fast road riding with a city bias (exactly the type riding I do), I would definitely go with a road shoe/pedal combo. The stiff sole is much more efficient and the larger cleat causes few if any hot spots and is therefore much more comfortable on the bike. After, you are riding and not walking.
post #8 of 27
Thread Starter 
Alright, I am becoming further confused as this thread goes on.

What differentiates between road shoe and MTB shoe? What about the pedals? My only experiance here is on the recomendation of a co-worker/friend who rides with Adidas carbon MTB shoes. Plenty stiff form what he says, and he likes the lugs so he has a little bit of traction for walking.

Johnnys,

Post 'em up, or PM me. Either way, I'm interested.
post #9 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
What differentiates between road shoe and MTB shoe?
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post
"Trainer" shoes like the Lake CX115, 125, will take both road and MTB cleats and still have walking lugs.

Road shoes: stiff and light which means no hot spots during rides but hard to walk in, easy click-in into road pedals. Rudimentary toe and heel walking lugs.

Trainer shoes: heavier but better lugs, easy click into MTB pedals, slightly more difficult click into road pedals because walking lugs on toe interfere with a 'scooping' action on the click.

MTB shoes: heavier yet, easy click into MTB pedals, no road.
MTB shoes CANNOT have road cleats because the walking lugs take up the space.

Quote:
What about the pedals?
Most MTB pedals have double sided entry, from above. There are two directions of "up".

A lot of road pedals have single-sided entry, one direction of this-side-up, and entry may not be from directly on top of the pedal, but may be from behind or the side. The cleats and the platforms of road shoes are generally bigger, because that way the shoe sole is more rigid underfoot at high pedaling loads. They don't need mud clearance. A lot of road shoes can offer much more adjustment range for cleat position than MTB shoes can.
post #10 of 27
Thread Starter 
woops, missed that the 1st time comprex
post #11 of 27
No problemo.

Try to fall left.
post #12 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post
Try to fall left.
post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
left is <- that way.
post #14 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post
left is <- that way.
Ooops, sorry comprex. I thought I finally had that one figured out after remedial kindergarten.
post #15 of 27
D'you get shooz yet?
post #16 of 27
Thread Starter 
nope, still looking around at this point.
post #17 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
nope, still looking around at this point.
that is something box stores are good for, REI/performance usually have better selection of budget SPDshooz than any LBS. The Shimano-branded ones are usually decent for mid-width feet.
post #18 of 27
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I've found plenty of deals with box stores. Just nothing local, so I have no idea how they'll fit.

In the end, I'll probably order a few pairs from Nashbar and send back the ones that don't fit.
post #19 of 27
I have a pair of crank bros eggbeaters NIB make an offer.
post #20 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxammo View Post
I have a pair of crank bros eggbeaters NIB make an offer.

eggbeaters are an MTB pedal, correct?
post #21 of 27
The pedal you choose will determine the clip you use (Look, Shimano, Crank etc) and not all shoes will take (have the hole patterns) for all the types of pedal/clip combos. So, it really is a function of the shoes you buy. That said, I have a pair of inexpensive Performance pedals (Look clip compatible) that I would sell you, but not until you determine the shoe and hole pattern (the pedals won't work with Shimana SPD, for example). gsmith721@yahoo.com.
post #22 of 27
Thread Starter 
Right now I'm thinking either one of these:

Time Rxp Road Shoe-two strap

or

Nashbar Sport Road Shoe

EDIT: One more

Forté CR210 Road Shoe




Last pair of shoes I bought was a 10.5 US, this is a 44, correct?
post #23 of 27






Here are some pics of the World Cup Times I have. The retail wa $188! I think I paid $120.

I have 2 pairs of eggbeaters and another pair of Candy SL's. I don't really need more eggbeaters right now. I'm attempting to become a minimalist!!!

Ummm...Just an observation on pedals. Its not so much the size of the pedal, that makes a difference with shoe sole contact, and energy transfer, its the size of the cleat.

Pedals like eggbeaters look like they offer no contact because of the size of the pedal. I have compared these to the Candy SL and when I am clippped in I can't discern a difference. On the Crank Bros. pedals the cleat almost spans the length of the axle. Time cleats are smaller, pedal body larger.

If you look at most road specific pedals the cleats are huge! That is because they want to have optimum power transfer. Things like mud clearance and the ability to unclip and reclip quickly aren't as important as with a mountain bike pedal.

As far a mountain bike shoes for road use...Shoes like Sidi have removeable cleats, and sole lugs, and are quite stiff. They are not as stiff as an upper echelon road shoe but they are pretty stiff.

FYI
post #24 of 27
Actually they are candy sl's NIB , make an offer .
post #25 of 27
My Forte pedals would be compatible with that last shoe choice, guaranteed.
post #26 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by krp8128 View Post
Last pair of shoes I bought was a 10.5 US, this is a 44, correct?
Doesn't matter: use your ski boot mondopoint size.
post #27 of 27
I have a set of Look Keo Sprint (red) road pedals kicking around I'm not using. Slightly scuffed up, maybe 10-15 hours on them. A kickass road pedal that's still in good shape, with equally used grey cleats. PM me if you're interested and we can work something out.
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