^^^^^^^^Thanks, Phil ! Again, no urgency, at your leisure.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:post #6482 of 791810/31/14 at 6:29am
What brakes do you have? It is easier to swap the whole assembly, remove the top part (Dildo) with the two screws and send them to me, I will get you two narrow brakes from some older pivots, I will make sure they have the metal half moons on them.post #6483 of 791810/31/14 at 11:50am
PSA Appears someone has The Ski for sale on CL. I'm not going to pursue this, but thought someone might be interested. The location is a few miles north of Berkeley here in the San Francisco Bay Area...post #6484 of 791810/31/14 at 1:28pmpost #6485 of 791810/31/14 at 4:35pm
They are eye catching, that I'll admit, but I had my paws on a similar pair in a thrift shop last season, and somehow resisted.
Snowbomb (ski show) in San Francisco this weekend- maybe someone'll be in the area who wants to snag em.post #6486 of 791810/31/14 at 6:21pm
Someone might find a bargain there.. Just tell the person "those checkered ones look like one of the back bindings is broken and they don't even come with sticks" LOL (S626 blown)!post #6487 of 791811/1/14 at 8:08amCool old alpine pins from grandma from the 1940's and 50's while stationed in Germany.
Clockwise from top right:
Garmisch bobsled team
Kreuzeckpost #6488 of 791811/1/14 at 9:52pmpost #6489 of 791811/2/14 at 3:24amI'm going to suggest that these are very late 60's or very early 70's as these no longer have an Arnsteiner in the logo. However they still have the lightening bolt cloud logo. They only reason i know is my dad had got a set of the Arnsteiner logo'd ones when we just came to Canada and I skied those at 16 and snapped them under boot. They where good skis even though they where about 10-12 years old at the time it happened.post #6490 of 791811/2/14 at 5:10amQuote:Originally Posted by hickorystix
To reuse the deflex plates you need to clean the skis with an evaporating alcohol type cleaner which I can't remember the name , but believe it started with an "m" and caused cancer, perhaps Stoli would work as well..
At the time when these were popular you could order new adhesive strips, but in a pinch we used windshield adhesive which you can or could buy at NAPA.
The ski and the Deflex are evenly and carefully heated to an almost too hot to touch state, then the Deflex is mounted and CLAMPED tight enough to see the beginning of some "squeeze out" of the black goo along the length of the plate. Later trimmed with a razor knife.
At one point I was remounting some skis, removing the Deflex, and saw that the ski had been scored in a crosshatch manner, to allow the goo to adhere better.
I then copied that method and never had a bonding failure as a result.
The whole process almost requires two people to accomplish.
After the ski and Deflex are heated, one to screw the front screws and one the rear at the same time (Quickly!) and then to hand clamps to the other. 3 clamps per ski.
Clamp in the center of the Deflex first, then each outer one. Make sure the clamps are preset to a width needed to fit the ski and Deflex.
Very important to do a good job refilling the channels of the deflex with the windshield goo, making it as flush as possible.
It does not compress well at all, but spreads under pressure ok.
Leave clamped all night.
Oh and after screwed and clamped,flex the ski relatively gently several times. This helps to seat the hot goo more evenly. Then you might get a bit more twist on the clamps.
Wax or metal scrapers help to protect the ski bases when clamping.
These were a pain in the butt!!
To remove the old goo from the Deflex or to remove a Deflex from a ski, put a phillips head screw driver into an electric drill and use the shaft of the screw driver to roll under the mounted Deflex or with pressure to lift out the old goo. Works best before you start generating too much heat from friction.......
Did I say that these were a pain in the butt?
Ah, back 15-20 years ago we also worked for beer to augment the meager shop rat hourly wage.......
Thank you to hickorysticks and others for the suggestions on the derby plates. I went mostly by the above guidelines, I was able to steal some of the black goo from a pair of Dynastar plates and I clamped them on solid. I used 2 sided duct tape to hold the metal plate to the rubber over epoxy mostly because the skis don't have many runs left and epoxy is a pain. The skis were already drilled for the derby so that was easy and I have used the 997's on those plates before.
Overall, the hard part was mooshing the black goo around to fill the gaps and flatten hi spots.
Fingers crossed the skis don't come apart, but I am confident in the mountingpost #6491 of 791811/2/14 at 1:42pmpost #6492 of 791811/2/14 at 3:58pm
finally, as long ago promised, I will show you what I do to refurb and old binding. it is mostly elbow grease and some fortuitous access to a parts washer and ultrasonic cleaner. also , I in no way endorse skiing on non indemnified gear, this is just for information purposes only(wink, wink)
I start with a disassembly and careful inspection of all the parts for cracks or excessive wear. I have found cracked/ broken springs where rust caused them to fuse the plunger and then when released the springs broke. most likely cause was insufficient or inappropriate grease. this was always in the toe units of RS 99 and HP 99 bindings. below is a LOOK N17/ Nevada combo but the principles apply to most other older bindings. Salomon 747 Toes are very similar except I've never found any wear in them. but you have to be more carful of the paint.
below is typical dirt and old grease found upon inspection.
here are the parts soaking in a SAFETYCLEAN parts washer for a few hours.
then about an hour in an ultrasonic parts washer with water and a small mount of simple green. don't over do the temp or time in the ultrasonic as it will strip paint and dull the aluminum. also I do not put the springs in the ultrasonic. it removes what ever corrosion inhibiting coating the factory installed.
parts after rinsing with clean water a blowing dry with compressed air.
the below 2 pics show the only "wear" I have ever found in these old Nevada toes. notice the burrs on the 4 corners of the flat area. the post metal is softer than the plunger and the burr is rolled up when the toe is returned to center from a release.
a half dozen light strokes from a file remove the burr, slightly round the edge, and unsure a flat face for the plunger to work against.
a couple of drops of light machine oil (I use machine oil 100 or air tool oil) on all the moving parts
here is the spring and plunger repacked with grease and ready for reassembly. do not over pack or the binding will "hydraulically" lock. and nor function properly. I use superlube synthetic grease as it is extremely resistant to water and does not stiffen significantly at low temps. after assembly I always actuate the bindings in all directions to evenly distribute the grease and force any excess grease out.
Edited by royal - 11/2/14 at 5:07pmpost #6493 of 791811/3/14 at 9:44ampost #6494 of 791811/3/14 at 11:21ampost #6495 of 791811/3/14 at 11:25ampost #6496 of 791811/3/14 at 11:50ampost #6497 of 791811/3/14 at 11:51amThread Starter
Check those toes for roller flat spots!
Edited by Rossi Smash - 11/3/14 at 2:42pmpost #6498 of 791811/3/14 at 11:55amThread Starter
I do this with all my ski-able Looks
What is even more impressive is the fact that this basic design from the early '60's is arguably still one of the very best bindings you can buy today in the Pivot.post #6499 of 791811/3/14 at 2:11pm
I do check roller condition and function every year. So far, so good. I have some flat-spotted rental 444s that I took off the K2 Shorts so I know what to look for.post #6500 of 791811/4/14 at 3:48am
Back sometime around the mid to late 80's a ski film came out called the Blizzard of Aahh's that my friends and I went to see. At that time the space shuttle was making history and along with it came some new materials like kevlar that were being used in the newest skis. We had never seen anything like the skiing we saw in the movie. The couloir scene had us standing,, no, jumping up and down screaming! We took notice of the equipment these guys were using and we set out to copy them.
I still have the equipment I bought back then and believe it or not it's in almost perfect condition.
And this is a clip of the movie that changed our world.post #6501 of 791811/4/14 at 9:11ampost #6502 of 791811/4/14 at 9:15am
I don't that much. They were great at speed on ice but quite beefy to throw side to side in a tight flush or in the bumps. The 812 delivered similar hold but a smoother ride for me, granted the VO was an SL and the 12 was a GS ski. Don't really miss either of them compared to today's offerings except on retro day.post #6503 of 791811/4/14 at 10:22pmpost #6504 of 791811/5/14 at 7:12ampost #6505 of 791811/5/14 at 7:23ampost #6506 of 791811/7/14 at 12:46pm
I assume these are from someone on here . . .post #6507 of 791811/8/14 at 1:35pm
A friend was sponsored by Hexcel back in the day. These were his Father's skis and I am now caretaker. It does not look like he went out more than a few times on them. THE SKIs are more interesting than I thought at first. They may be from the first couple of years of production. Very thin line around the color blocks, full length base groove, no signature on the tails and the funny little skiman logo. The last picture is a bumper sticker that was attached to the skis when I got them.post #6508 of 791811/15/14 at 5:05pm
My awesome wife found these skis and super cool and rare bindings for me at the thrift store. LOOK RS KILLY (all black) and some MILLER bindings that resemble LOOKS and have a cool heel release mechanism. I can not find anything about the millers. anyone? the KILLY's will be transferred to some VR17's replacing some standard RS99'spost #6509 of 791811/15/14 at 5:29pmpost #6510 of 791811/15/14 at 5:36pmQuote:
they seem to work fine. I'll go through them before skiing and give a report. I was really hoping to find out more about them. I may have to track down one of Earl's kids if nothing shows up here.
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