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cuff alignment one leg vs other

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
This has bothered me off and on for twenty years and 5 pair of boots. Starting 1989/90 with Tecnica TNT 28.5 with Petersen Superfeet custom insoles (the cork ones that came in two parts). 1995 moved to Tecnica TNT AVS, 1998 tecnica Explosion 8, 2003 Tecnica TNT Icon - all same size and footbed. This season Head S13 with 100mm forefoot - used same footbeds for one month and then replaced with Zap Em (I think that was the name). Again all 5 pair were 28.5

My left foot fits fine. Right foot when standing neutral seems to have knee aligned more inside than does left. When flexing knees forward left knee moves in line with boot while right knee move forward and inside. Doesnt seem all the time but is pretty consistent. Also seem to have more pressure on inside (left side) of right boot cuff and a bit of a gap on outside (right side) at top of leg. Is a bit better when I tighten the right boot power strap and buckle.

Over the years I have played with canting but that just seems wrong as knee would still travel in same direction when flexing. Have tried building up duct tape under inside of right foot bed but also with limited success.

Feels sort of like I may need more arch support on right foot than left but also it seems like maybe right foot may point more outwards? or a bone/leg structure thing.

Any thoughts out there? Makes it slightly harder to initiate edge on right ski than left.

oh - and for the cant/bevel guy - Head skis come at 0.8 degree base bevel. Would be less grabby than some others which come with less of a base bevel angle

post #2 of 11

sounds like you need to start at the beginning and work this one through with a boot fitter

the footbed you are using, is it a true custom one, i have seen something with similar name that gets chucked in the microwave and put under your foot??? i would be looking at the footbed first, then looking at the lateral set up of the boot. you may be someone who will benefit from Mosh's SBS system in addition to the cuff canting and sole planing, the SBS system will allow you to find the best balance point for your foot with the footbed, then you can concentrate on engaging the edges with the underboot canting/ planing

only by having a full assessment will you get to the bottom of all the causes and solutions, time to find the boot pro nearest you

good luck
post #3 of 11
just another thought the asymetry could be down to a muscle imbalance or even one leg being longer than the other
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 

I originally had Petersen Superfeet. This one was molded to my foot sole on a machine that may have had me angled forward (a bit fuzzy with that). Once the foot sole portion was molded it was affixed to a bottom portion made from cork. As the entire footbed was made from cork it really did not break down as some of the others I have tried have done. As a result and since Tecnicas really did not change much at all I was able to use the same foot bed for a very long time thru several pair of boots. The same issue was apparent with this footbed in the Tecnica boots.

Since I work with the area rep for Head it was time to move to Head boots this year. I tried my old footbeds and they worked but I think were approx 1/8 - 1/4 inch shorter than they should be. The rep also has this Zap Em footbed that he sells and gave me a pair to try out. They are gel filled and are placed in a microwave for just over 2-3 minutes and then put in boot to mold to the foot. Repeat for other boot. These seem to work reasonably well but have same problem as previous boot/footbed combination which leads me to believe it is more about my leg/foot/ankle....

My boot was fitted by the local shop best known for bootfitting in our area. We did not address this issue at the time as it is a minor nagging problem but as the liner packs down a bit becomes more pronounced. Note these Head boots pack down whereas the Tecnicas never did and both are same size. Suspect this is because S13 is not a race boot and has higher volume liner which I am not used to.

Original fit of Tecnica was done at same shop by a very good boot fitter. He immediately picked up on my pronation problem and suggested the bunions/pressure points (or whatever they are) on outside of forefoot are caused by this and lack of proper footbed support. The Superfeet solved this for 20 years .... good call on his part.

I notice this little problem I have when standing in a lift line and looking down. Sometimes when ski is flat on snow right knee is inside ankle joint. On those occasions if I straighten knee over ankle the ski is then on outside edge. Doesn't really bother me while skiing but bugs me just the same.

My next two plans were to take boots in to shop to have looked at and to try taping popsicle stick under footbed on inside edge inside my right boot.


PS. Am in Canada and CSIA level III and am over 6 feet and not light. As an Eastern skier spend most of my time on hard pack and therefore typically groomed ice. Favourite ski is 163cm Head SuperShape Magnum or slalom in case that helps any .....
post #5 of 11
You may want to try a forefoot varus on the right footbed. Seems like it would diminish your knee tracking issue plus reduce the effects of the outward rotation of your forefoot (abduction).
post #6 of 11
from what you have now described i think Billy has it spot on, basd on that, how is your flexion, limited ankle flexion can cause the foot to rotate and create an aquired varus position
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Flex seems to be fine. No restriction to range of motion compared to left ankle.

What is "forefoot Varus"?
post #8 of 11
A forefoot varus is an angled spacer that is placed under the forefoot area. (high side medial side of foot) This realigns the met head to floor parallelism in regard to ankle neutrality. (STJ)
Also, as Colin alludes to, a leg length difference should be checked.
post #9 of 11
should clarify

forefoot varus is the funtional/structural position of the foot where the medial side of the forefoot sits higher than the lateral side of the forefoot

a forefoot varus post is a filler or peice of material used to fill the gap and bring the ground up to meet the foot therefore the thicker bit will be under the big toe side. whilst allowing the rearfoot remains neutral

you could try using some tape to build up that side of the footbed, if it felt better i would then have it checked by someone qualified and made more permenant

good luck
post #10 of 11

It's too bad you can't choose a right boot with more positive abduction (toe out), or mount your bindings in that position (like on the Marker race plates) and test the outcome.

A slight toe out position on the right side would help to minimize what is likely an acquired (due to position rather than intrinsic) forefoot varus - which changes the thrust angle of your right knee as you transfer weight to the forefoot.

^ This would be a 'bottom up' explanation of your problem.

Until such an asymmetrical set up is available, your best option - as mentioned by Billy - is to bring the ground up to the medial forefoot by using a wedge.

You may also be suffering from some top down 'windup', i.e. retroversion of the femoral head/neck being the cause of your relative toe out position on the right side. So, when you are forced to put the feet parallel, your right hip has to internally rotate more than the left - resulting in a knee joint that is pointing/directed more to the inside. Again, the fix for this would be a more 'toed out' boot on the right side, but a bottom-up solution (varus wedge) is an ok band-aid.

post #11 of 11
Great information from cantman, CEM, and jdistefa.

Judging from the age of the footbed and the amount of use, you should find a bootfitter that will make you a new one that identifies the forefoot varus and builds that into the new device.

While you are at this good bootfitter, check your ankle Range Of Motion, Arch Flexibility, and how the forefoot lines up to the rearfoot. Armed with that information a good bootfitter should be able to build a brand new device to address your alignment issues.

Abducted boots like jdistefa suggests are available from Fischer and Nordica.

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