or Connect
EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Clarifications on waxing/tuning for different conditions
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Clarifications on waxing/tuning for different conditions

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

I am planning on waxing my brand new skis this weekend; and have a workplan for it based on reading this forum and Alpinord's blog. Some clarificatiions would be helpful.

1) I'll do a base cleaning using some soft wax/universal wax and scrape it while warm/not cooled. May not be needed for brand new skis, but it will get rid of whatever they have on the skis from the factory; and give me practice with the iron and such.

Q1a) Would it be recommended to use fiberlene after the warm scrape between the iron and the base to remove any last vestiges of the wax or could that damage the base?

2) Steel brush lightly to clean up the base and "roughen" surface for base prep.

3) Do three coats of Swix base prep wax and scrape while warm leaving just that wax which is in the pores of the base.

Q3a: I'm not sure how this is operationally any different than the cleaning phase in Step 1 above. Both steps utilize scraping before it has cooled. So... why would Step 1 remove all the wax (and potential contaminants) from the base, but Step 3 still leave some in the base? Could someone clarify this?

Q3b: Should the base be steel or horse-hair brushed between the coats in Step 3)?

4) Do one final coat with CH 7, 8, or 10, followed by scraping when completely cooled. Use a horse hair or nylon brush (steel ???) for final polishing and cleaning

Q4a) Some tips suggest using a steel/brash brush after the final coat and before the nylon/horse-hair brush in order to remove the last bit of wax. Why would you want to do that? I would think that you would want to NOT remove any of the wax. Is it more just to give it some texture (no suctioning on soft wet snow)? OTOH, why then do you use a nylon/horse-hair to do a final polishing? Sounds contradictory to me.

Q4b) Since conditions often change during the day and I really don't have the time to wax every time I go out skiing, is it better to err with a slightly colder wax (for colder temperatuires) under warmer/wet conditions or a warmer wax under colder conditions? Is it best just to use a universal wax in such cases (non-racing skiing)?

Q4c) When you do want to change your top coat of wax for different conditions, how do you remove just that one without removing all of your base prep wax and having to redo this again.? Or do most people always just go back to step 1?

Q4d) If you do change conditions, do you just put new wax over old stuff?

Finally - tuning questions:

T1) There seems to be some contradictory advice floating around on the use of diamond stones as a first step (deburring and removing rust) before filing/sharpening the edges with a directional file and as final step for polishing the edges. I've also seen mentioned that you should not use the diamond stone as your last step. Are diamond stones (coarse to fine) considered less abrasive than files? I would think so. So then why would you use d-stones for cleaning the edge before filing?

T2) The factory edges on my Legend 8000 are very smooth on the bottom but seem to have diagonal hatchings on the side-edges, hence those latter are also the ones that show some tarnishing/rust from the store. Should those diagonal hatchings be removed? If so, I was thinking of progressively using coarse to fine diamond stones to polish them out.

T3) If those hatchings should stay there, would it be best just to use a gummi-stone (fine) to remove some of the gunk?

post #2 of 10
What is your waxing goal? Racing? Just good running recreational skiing? Obsessive compulsive disorder? If just good rec skiing, try a coat of universal wax melted in with the warm iron, then remelt and wipe the excess off with a paper towel. Ski.

The diagonal marks on the ski edges are from the ceramic disc edge sharpening machine. No problem and no difference that I've felt vs. filing & stoning in rec skiing.
post #3 of 10

One opinion, there will be others I'm sure.

Q1A: Not needed, imho.

2 before 1, again only as needed.

Q3A: Not different

Q3B: No. Horse and nylon cleanout only after the last one.

Q4a: Because random bits of wax on top of the base grab onto snow until the snow tears them off.

Q4B: Having many hot scrape cycles, and scraping and brushing properly, extends the effective range of any wax; for man made snow I tend to err on the colder side and add fluoro or Zardoz.

Q4C: Hot scrape.

Q4D: No, particularly going to a colder wax from a warmer one. Brush the old stuff out (brass and or horse as needed) then hot scrape, then new Wax of Day.
post #4 of 10
You should drink a beer and stop thinking so much about it.

Brush, wax, scrape, brush, ski
post #5 of 10
All I do is check the forcast and use the right temperature wax. Wipe surface clean, drip on wax with iron, iron in, let cool, scrape, brush, go ski.
post #6 of 10
My routine (if I have time) with new skis is as follows...
  1. Brush w/ steel brush to clean out structure and remove dirt from handling
  2. Coat of base prep wax
  3. Hotscrape
  4. Coarse (red) scotchbrite pad to remove more wax
  5. Brass brush to clean out structure
  6. Repeat 2-5 one or two more times depending on how dirty the wax shavings are
  7. Then I move onto my normal waxing routine
Remember you're trying to get wax INTO the base, hence the brushing, brushing, and more brushing.
post #7 of 10
For temp, I'd err on the cold side to prevent base burn unless you expect it to be very warm/wet then I'd want to be ready for that with a warm wax that won't stick. I'd also brush more agressively if I was expecting those warmer conditions.

I think you might be getting just a bit over-zealous with your plans, but that won't hurt anything. One thing I'd change is the hot-scrapes of the base prep wax. I think you're going to want to let that cool so that the hairs in the base will stand up and be cut off by your sharp scraper.
post #8 of 10
Get some Dominator All-temperture Zoom and make an appt. with a therapist!
post #9 of 10


WOW, sounds like you're going to take Waxing Very seriously. Thats ok, enjoy yourself.

I like Slidewrights Universal over Toko or Swix and use it unless it is really going to be cold, then use their cold formula. One very important thing for a beginner don't get the iron too hot and don't ever stop its movement or you'll be skiing on Base Bubbles.

Have Fun
post #10 of 10
people diamond their skis before the file to break the burr so the file doesn't get damaged. When you hit tiny rocks with enough gumption to burr your edge, you actually heat-treat that burr... making the steel harder than your file. Big burrs will actually damage files. Diamonds pull the burr down before filing for reshaping.

make sense? So... now your question should be; which do I want to replace first; my file or my coarse diamond?

But that's assuming big damage. Small pebble damage can still be cleaned up with a few passes of coarse and fine diamonds. You should have more money invested into diamond stones than files, fwiw.

Base prep with graphite in it is awesome. Consider base-prep wax like a preconditioner to make future wax applications flow more evenly and scrape more smoothly as well as last longer. A bit of graphite within the base-prep (ie toko graphite base-prep) will also fight static that can accumulate in new snow crystals. I apply it twice a year. I really notice when my wax jobs no longer last as long and don't apply nearly as smoothly. Base Prep really does make a difference, and it's only a few bucks.

I wouldn't sweat so many hot-scrapes for a new ski. Ride those new skis through an oil puddle and yeah, you're going to have to hot-scrape like made to pull that oil out of your bases. But new? no. They received a quick non-iron hot wax at the factory to protect them from handling.

1-2 applications of your base prep/hot scrape should be fine. Top that with your desired wax, scrape and brush at the resort = fast.

The final is all in your scraping abilities. Scrape till dry, brush till dryer.

Follow that procedure and you'll be fast as golden.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs
EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Clarifications on waxing/tuning for different conditions