Any suggestions on a liquid cleaner to use to remove it before using my bevel tool on the metal itself?
I'm concerned that the usual rust removers, solvents, might damage the body of the ski.
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Using a (course) 3M Scotchbrite pad works like magic on surface rust on ski edges. I haven't seen anything work as well.
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| The rust is thick on the last 6 inches of the skis, and nowhere else. |
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I was just looking at unprotected skis on top of cars on the NYS Thruway last night, and wondering, 'what's wrong with these people?'.
I remember a Salomon representative giving a presentation back in the seventies and telling everyone to put a nylon sleeve around their bindings to protect them when carrying skis on a car rack. Thirty years later people still don't know. |

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A little side note: The guy was not appreciative at all about it.. apparently the skis are back in a similar condition as they were before I tuned em up. The guy and his wife are lawyers, so I have a feeling it's a case of "All dollars, no Sense" or just your typical lack of respect for material possessions because you can afford 12 more of the same thing if you wanted....
*Grrr* |
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A guy my parents know had some skis in horrible condition.... Chewed up bases and edges, rusted edges, etc.... 3 sets of them in this condition... I'd like some opinions on my methods, but it seemed to work well...
First, I took a file and wrapped it in some higher grit sand paper, and sanded the bases until the rust was gone on base edges and the bases were flatter. I sanded, scraped, sanded with some finer grit, scraped again. This got the bases nice and flat and the rust off the base edges... I used an edge guide with a 3 degree bevel and a file for a couple passes down the side edges until the majority of the rust was gone (some of the rust was so bad it had started pitting). After that, I reset the base bevel and did a normal tune. I know that in the shops they basically use a big belt sander to stone grind, so is my method just as good? It took more time, but it didn't cost me a dime. I haven't done this on any other skis, but it seemed to work very well and I'd obviously start with finer grit sand paper if the skis were not in bad shape... opinions? |

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I know that in the shops they basically use a big belt sander to stone grind, so is my method just as good? It took more time, but it didn't cost me a dime.
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i got a really nice pair of atomic deviants. I love these skis with a passion. I want every possible thing known to man to keep these skis safe. I want does and donts and how to keep them in great condition. Ps, we keep them in the car and not on the roof
Keep them coated with storage wax when not in use. Also, don't store them in a garage, attic, shed, or anyplace not climate controlled where humidity/moisture/dew/condensation can attack the edges.
Wax, wax, wax, sharpen, wax, wax, wax.
Honestly there are tons of great info in this forum. Peruse some of the threads and you'll find just what you need. Just a forewarning though, you'll probably get obsessive with the tuning if you love your skis with a passion.
Good luck!
I'm always careful to dry my skis when I come home.
Then if there is rust, I just take out a file. Usually one pass over does the trick.
I would lose the scotch bright pad, you wax the bases and file the edges, if you want to look after your skis have a look at http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/category/5/14/34/, its a UK site but will give you an idea of what you need and how to do it, there are a number of US based sites that can sell you what you need.