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Alpinord...question for you

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I got some P1 cold spray from slidewright along with the cork/brush. The cork/brush seems to have pretty hard bristles. Is this what I need to buff with or should I try a brush with softer bristles? when I spray the stuff, how much is enough? Do I rub pretty hard with the cork like I'm buffing or simply smear the wax around with it until uniform? Sorry for so many questions, but the directions maplus posts are based upon the assumption that you've corked and brushed before. I've never brushed skis before so what is the correct way to go about it? Back-and-forth motion all the way down the ski or brush in one direction down the ski? Thanks so much for your help.
post #2 of 7

I'm not alpinord but I play with his kit

The cork does two things:

1) spread the sprayed material more evenly over the base

for this you can use light pressure but you have to work fast, before the volatile carrier evaporates.

2) help penetrate the bases

for this more pressure and speed is called for, enough to generate heat by friction. Of course, you can take as long as you wish.

imho, this is where you can really tell whether there's too little wax (the cork runs "dry" and can't leave that glassy iridescent finish over the entire ski) or too much (it builds up on the cork and the cork can't make much friction, the wax on the bases looks cloudy and splotchy, the quick fix is to scrape the cork off on the ski edge)

The brush does two things:

a) clear out free wax from existing structure

for this a stiffer brush works well, including the jr. sized ones that come with the Maplus spray.

b) polish the bases and the grooves in the structure.

for this a softer brush works well.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
so if I'm corking for base penetration (more pressure), do I cork while the wax is wet or after it dries? I understand spreading the wax with the cork when it's wet. Do the one-direction rules (tip to tail) apply to corking and brushing or can I use back and forth motions? There's just no specific info anywhere on the net about waxing and brushing intricacies. Thanks.
post #4 of 7
I would not use the same cork for spreading the wax over the ski as the one you will use for buffing. You will get too much build-up on the cork. Apply the wax all over direction does not matter. Let it dry completely. Work tip to tail with the cork in short back-n-forth motions this will build up a lot of heat and help work the wax into the ski. Once you are happy with a glossy finish on your bases, brush them out in long tip to tail strokes applying medium pressure. Brush several times to open up the structure. SKI.
post #5 of 7
Originally Posted by tech_joshua View Post
There's just no specific info anywhere on the net about waxing and brushing intricacies. Thanks.
It's kinda like knife skills in the kitchen, we can only -tell- you so much.
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
thanks. That's what I was looking for.
post #7 of 7
Sorry for not replying sooner. A major storm knocked out power, phone & internet services Saturday night. We're connected again. FYI, we have a toll free number on our contact page, which bounces to my cell phone if I'm out...err....'testing product' or something.....:

I have good luck tilting the cork up and use the trailing bottom edge as a squeegy for spreading and delivering the liquid or spray wax. As stated previously, a flat cork scrapes the wax and builds up along the edge. A felt works best as it saturates and pushes the wax into the bases before it solidifies. The stiff brush works fine in a pinch and adjusting pressure provides some control of freeing structure versus polishing. When in the shop, I'll use my softer brushes (usually roto) to bang out the polishing.

See our 6th Grade test for additional notes. Especially the P1 Cold & a lesser extent for the Med, needs brushing to reduce drag initially, compared to the softer Hot.
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