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Question about repairing skis

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Hi,
My husband has a small gash about a half inch in length and about 3mm in width between the bindings on the outside of the ski (edge). It exposes the inside core of the ski. Most of the outer component of the ski is still attached. Is this repairable and if so, worth the cost? I bought them on geardirect.com a couple of seasons ago for him as a bday present and he skied in them one season before damaging them. The are Elan Mantas M8's 168 and on the ski its says Carbon. I believe I paid $300 for them. If I need to provide a pic, I can do so.
Thanks!
post #2 of 16
Hang on, the experts should be back from skiing soon...

Based on my experience as a repair customer, base repairs right next to the edge are a little tricky and tend not to hold as well as ones in the middle. You will probably have three options - a simple fix that may not be guaranteed to last (a plain ptex weld); a complicated fix that will cost more (specialized edge-bonding stuff, then ptex); trash the skis. I'd lean towards the 1st option unless you have a good and cheap shop, while the 2nd would make sense for a do-it-yourselfer.

I remember reading an in-depth discussion of such repairs somewhere on the web, but not sure where.
post #3 of 16
I got a core shot while skiing at VT last year. Had it repaired at the resort (with ptex I believe). The filling didn't hold up all that well with reference to the base but it was adequate in embedding the once exposed edge.

So, I guess it all depends on what you use the skis for. If it's used them to bum around the mountain (versus like for racing), I'd say ptex repair is probably good enough. No matter what, the base must be fixed before they are skied on again.
post #4 of 16
Probably repairable, pics would help.

The M8 is a pretty old design by now, so it might be just the time for him to update.
post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
Ok. Thanks for the replies so far. He has already bought new skis, without attempting to get these repaired first. Typical. lol. But, I thought maybe they could be and if he can't use them, we have a friend who might be able to...
I can't apply attachments so I am sending a link to another website (not much help there) which has the pics:
http://www.skilovers.com/cgi-bin/dcf...m=DCF orumID1

Thanks!
post #6 of 16
Ah! I read that post three times and was pretty sure you were not describing base or edge damage.

If you look down a few posts you will see similar damage to a cap ... and the epoxy they recommend for "the cure".

Save them as rock skis for the spring.
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I wasn't sure how to go about describing that damage. Did the best I could. Will this effect the skis perfomance ability. As in to flex and/or dampen? I honestly don't know and he did not ski on them again. Probably, the best bet would to try them out again.
I imagine you are talking about P-Tex as the cure??
post #8 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdskis2 View Post
Yeah, I wasn't sure how to go about describing that damage. Did the best I could. Will this effect the skis perfomance ability.
The edge underneath that binding may not be as sturdy as before.

Quote:
As in to flex and/or dampen? I honestly don't know
Not really, especially on that ski and directly under the toepiece like that.

Quote:
I imagine you are talking about P-Tex as the cure??
No. A two-part adhesive that is liquid enough to inject and seep into small cracks, but solid enough to form a durable coat. One that bonds to wood core and plastics, but remains flexible.

Looking back at the other (RX5) thread, they don't actually mention a specific adhesive, though Hysol is mentioned elsewhere on this site. For my own part, I like Interlux Epiglass.

The liquid adhesive may be too thin to form a shell coat in the bits that are missing, so after the cracks are filled and the core protected, a second application of a thicker sealant with a colour match ingredient may be in order.

I would not ski them as they are: wood cores rot, screws embedded in wood rust off and get loose.
post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdskis2 View Post
Yeah, I wasn't sure how to go about describing that damage. Did the best I could. Will this effect the skis perfomance ability.
The edge underneath that binding may not be as sturdy as before.

Quote:
As in to flex and/or dampen? I honestly don't know
Not really, especially on that ski (most of the flex feel comes from the wood core and ribs across the top) and directly under the toepiece like that.



Quote:
I imagine you are talking about P-Tex as the cure??
No. A two-part adhesive that is liquid enough to inject and seep into small cracks, but solid enough to form a durable coat. One that bonds to wood core and plastics, but remains flexible.

Looking back at the other (RX5) thread, they don't actually mention a specific adhesive, though Hysol is mentioned elsewhere on this site. For my own part, I like Interlux Epiglass.

The liquid adhesive may be too thin to form a shell coat in the bits that are missing, so after the cracks are filled and the core protected, a second application of a thicker sealant with a colour match ingredient may be in order.

I would not ski them as they are: wood cores rot, screws embedded in wood rust off and get loose.
post #10 of 16
Ah, I'd describe that as sidewall damage (even if cap skis dont, strictly speaking, have sidewalls -- is that a cap?)

I would guess it makes a difference whether the skin is structural or cosmetic, as to how much it changes performance.

Is that a wood core? One more thing to worry about in similar situations is epoxy vs core compatibility. I know from reading about windsurfer repair that some glues or epoxies eat certain foams, changing a crack into a cavity. (http://www.boardlady.com/ is the definative surf/windsurf repair site)
post #11 of 16
Don't worry about the damage pictured above. My AC4's have the same basic nick from almost 2 years ago. They have about 100 day's on them and they ski great.

I never fixed it or worried about it. I use it to tell them apart, I ski one edge in the AM and change edges after lunch.
post #12 of 16
Max Cap, I think your AC4s have more metal in them than the Mantis 8 did.
post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 
Ok. He repaired them. He read these posts and went at it. He used a liquid adhesive for fiberglass, not sure of the name. Here is the link on the other website to see the pics. It looks alright, I guess. My husband is McGyver. Give him a swiss army knife and some duct tape.....

http://www.skilovers.com/cgi-bin/dcf...wmode=threaded
post #14 of 16
The problem was his ski edges were too sharp - he banged that ski with the edge from his other ski. Tell him to dull his edges so it doesn't happen again ;-)
post #15 of 16
We used to carry those Elans (Manta M8, M10 and M12) in our shop as a demo a few years back. Edge cap damage along the binding (the same as in the picture) was very common, i.e. every pair. We would use two part Epoweld, to repair them with no problems and seemingly no real effects to ski performance.

James
post #16 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by c1er View Post
Tell him to dull his edges so it doesn't happen again ;-)
Better yet, tell him not to bang his skis anymore.
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