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How to use a sidewall planer?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have a sidewall planer, kind of like this one http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-2...dewall,/Detail

I really am stumped on using it. I seem to always miss the mark and gave up on it a couple of years ago, but now find that my RX8's really need some sidewall material removed, and before going to Atomicman's back filing technique would love to learn how to use the tool.

Which way do you pull it? What does the R and L mean? How do you adjust it properly?

Inquiring mind(s) want to know!
post #2 of 10
I have one very much lik ethat. The diagram in the site you listed shows how to adjust the blade. I find that it cuts fine either way that I pull it. They key I think is to take very little material with each pull and then keep adjustin it until you have taken as much as you want. It gets kind of adictive.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
epic, I "know" how to adjust it, but can't seem to get it adjusted right. I have the square blade. So you cut by pushing or pulling? And you don't switch the blade to the L or R positions for any reason?
post #4 of 10
I have the round blade which I am told is much more forgiving.

edit: no, I've never swapped the blade L to R either.
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Just ordered a round blade.
post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post
epic, I "know" how to adjust it, but can't seem to get it adjusted right. I have the square blade. So you cut by pushing or pulling? And you don't switch the blade to the L or R positions for any reason?
Pulling it toward you should keep a more even pressure; pushing may introduce skipping as you use less pressure when your arms extend.

There is more info here on square vs. round blade use.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
I always pull my tools towards me (files, stones, etc.) however since the blade on the planer has the L and R, which way the blade moves is a question for me.
post #8 of 10
The graphic in the link gives a good example of how much material should be removed. You do not want to remove too much material as you need support over the edge. The two screws with the springs determine how high it sits and adjusting the cutter determines the depth of cut. I wasn't too clear on using it either, but I had a world cup ski tech show me how to use it. Of course, he was able to set the height and depth of cut pretty quickly, it takes me longer.

I practiced on some vertical sidewall skis that I pulled out of someone's trash a couple of years ago until I got the hang of it.

I also use the round cutter. It seems much more forgiving than the square blade.

Also, start by removing a little material at a time, it is much easier to remove more than to add some back on.
post #9 of 10
Consulted with HEAD about this, they said round or square blade is fine whether cap or laminate constuction.
post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post
I always pull my tools towards me (files, stones, etc.) however since the blade on the planer has the L and R, which way the blade moves is a question for me.
I also have that tool and it works very well.

I believe the left and right is whether you are left or right handed which also indicates where your base of your ski is facing and which side of you your ski is. So if you were left handed and the tool is in your left hand, ski on your left side bases away from you you completely remove the blade mechanism and switch it to the other side of the planer so that it is in the correct position to pull it towards you with your left hand.
.
When doing my side edge the ski is on my right with the base facing away from my right side, tool in my right hand. You always pull the tool towards you.

i still back file first even if if I use the planer after. In fact I just bought a 7 degree side edge beveler from Artech for $22.00 works great with a short panser!
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