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Marker Duke? - Page 2

post #31 of 45
^we should have a skin trimming party!

i'mma have a ball trimming waves into my skins for the NAS, that's for sure.
post #32 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by dookey67 View Post
^we should have a skin trimming party!
: : : : :

post #33 of 45
^^^
Oh, thanks…I’m now recalling a traumatic experience deep in the recesses of my early memory…
post #34 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedad View Post
I thought that the climbing bail locked in?

All I'm saying is that the ability to lift the heel, without traction is useless. That climbing bail rests on top of the plate and still rises off the plate with the binding as you step forward. As you weight the bail and push, the ski will either grip with skins allowing you to move forward, or it will slip straight back, leaving you where you started. All I'm saying is, hiking without skins is futile. The bail has a second (lower) position by swinging it forward toward the toe.

ON the freeride the heel elevator (bail) is fixed to the ski and the binding heel lands on it. The marker elevator is fixed to the binding rather than the hold down plate on the ski.
post #35 of 45
Gotcha. I had thought that the bail locked into the base plate, and it seemed like that might make it easier to herringbone using the edges (where skins would be irrelevant anyway). Apparently, I know even less than usual.
post #36 of 45
That's why they call it skinning.

If you have just a short uphill section that you would use a herringbone technique, boot-pack it. With the Duke, you are talking about taking off the skis, throwing the release latch, stepping back in, walking with the tail of the ski falling away from the binding which makes herringbone difficult at best, taking the ski off at the top, re-attaching the lock lever, putting skis on and skiing. Shoot, I got tired just writing about it. :

Get some skins so that if you have a minimum of a quarter mile of distance on the flats, or especially climbing in deep snow you can do it with an easy stride. The longer the distance, the more worthwhile it is to drop the ski and put on skins. This is the major reason the Duke will end up being used almost 100% of the time in the locked alpine position. With other AT bindings the switch from alpine to walk mode does not require removing the ski. If Marker ever moves that switch from under the boot to say, in front of the toe like their pistons, then you will be talking about a really fast transition.
post #37 of 45
I dunno. That rail thing is pretty precision fitting when the lever gets thrown. A mm or 2 of ice or snow in the wrong place & it seems to me that it'd be tough to get the thing to throw & the rail to latch securely without careful clearing - so I'm not sure people oughta hold their breath waiting for a front-lever version. Even if it could be built (which seems likely), it might not be entirely reliable. I think it was truth over at TGR who commented that it might even pay to carry a small brush for clearing the current model.
post #38 of 45
"If Marker ever moves that switch from under the boot to say, in front of the toe like their pistons, then you will be talking about a really fast transition."

DUDE!

you should be in Marker R&D (not that the Piston switch on my bindings ever did much to my experience, but it looked kind of cool having an "On" and "Off" switch in your skis.
post #39 of 45
I guess this just further cements my lack of knowledge, but I don't understand why anyone cares where the switch is if you have to take them off to put skins on anyway.
post #40 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedad View Post
I guess this just further cements my lack of knowledge, but I don't understand why anyone cares where the switch is if you have to take them off to put skins on anyway.
With the switch in a different position, it might be possible to switch from tour to ski mode w/o taking off your skis. Which would allow with a little experience, to rip off your skins w/o taking off your skis.

For example, with Freerides or Naxos, or any binding where you wouldn't have to take off your ski to convert it from tour to ski mode, all you would have to do is 1) stop skiining and lock the binding into ski mode with your pole, 2) kick your leg back as if you were doing a quad stretch, reach back and detach the skin from the ski tail, then in one motion just rip the skins off, 3) repeat with other ski, 4) pack 'em up and go.

For folks who are in the habit of removing skins that efficiently, I can see how taking off the skis would be an annoyance if you've gotten used to not doing it.

However, IMO, if having that mode switch located where it is, means that there is zero chance of the Duke popping into tour mode while skiing a sketchy line, then I say leave it where it is (I've been in the BC with Freerides in an icy couloir, went to make a turn, and had the sucker pop into touring mode....scary scary feeling).
post #41 of 45
Now that makes sense. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrone Shoelaces View Post
However, IMO, if having that mode switch located where it is, means that there is zero chance of the Duke popping into tour mode while skiing a sketchy line, then I say leave it where it is
The other advantage I could see would be protecting the switch from impact and contamination.
post #42 of 45
There are many situations (besides taking your skins off) where being able to lock and unlock the heels without taking the skis off is advantageous and often safer. If you are climbing over trees or rocks, or skinning uphill and need to sidestep or herringbone up a section that is too steep for your skins to hold, or if you are traversing a steep slope, it fractures, and the safest way out is suddenly to ski down with your skins on it's nice to be able to simply push the heels with your pole and lock the bindings.

As I've expressed in other threads, I think that the requirement to take the skis off to lock or unlock the bindings is a major deficiency of the Dukes when used as an AT binding. I would be suprised if the next generation of the binding does not rectify this feature. Although, judging from the responses to my questions it does not sound like the majority of buyers will be using them for AT all that much of the time.
post #43 of 45
Saw some Dukes today in the shop, they don't feel that heavy...

I'm not sure what to put on some Coombas, run em as a touring setup or maybe just some STH 12s...certainly a lot cheaper.

But then I'll kick myself if I see some fresh I can't get to...
post #44 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedad View Post
Yeah, Ty got my point (or lack thereof). Backcountry JONG here. I need to pick up some skins for my 188 Bros....
Alpinedad- take a look at the Black Diamond website. I think that I saw some skins on sale there (www.bdel.com ; look under gear and sale). You need to size them by width, not length (they come long and you can adjust or cut to length). Most people suggest "wall-to-wall" coverage for best grip when climbing, so chose the width based on the widest part of the shovel- something about 5-10mm less than that width is the size you want. The skins will come with trimming instructions. BD also sells some skins that are precut to fit their brand of skis. If your Bros are similar dimensions to a BD ski you can use those and skip the trimming (I did that for my TM:x's).

(loved the bris picture, by the way!!!)
post #45 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by dp View Post
Alpinedad- take a look at the Black Diamond website. I think that I saw some skins on sale there (www.bdel.com ; look under gear and sale).
Unfortunately, they don't seem to have any skins on special right now. Sigh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dp View Post
(loved the bris picture, by the way!!!)
Hey, it's the only skin trimming party I know about.
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