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re-sole for a Technica Icon with soul

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
background here: I wear a 23.5 boot, have a d width foot, and need major punch outs for hammer toe, and have large ankle bones on the inside. I am an expert skier 135 pounds and ski over 100 days per year. so what all this means is that I have a hard time finding my size in a boot, and a harder time finding my size on sale, and have a need for a good price as I am a furniture-maker, which is a great lifestyle but a lousy business. so there. this all has led me to perform a restoration procedure on my 2 season old Technical Icon Carbons. I ran the sole over my joiner to make it flat again (it was very rounded from hiking every day on scree and rock slab of the local boot packs). I then laminated 3/16" of polyurethane and adhered it with polyurethane cement in a vacume press. then I ran it over the joiner one last time to regain perfect flatness, routed a tread pattern on it except where it interfaces with the toe piece slide plat and wala! a new flat sole on a really beat to sh-- boot. do you think this will get me through another season? are there any issues that I should beware of? It will hike even better than stock plastic soles. oh, the polyurethane is quite firm, firmer than any rubber available. a second question. I have another pair of these, even more worn out, but the buckles are in better shape. Is there any way to get inside the shell to remove and re-install these buckles? thanks for the help.
post #2 of 6
1) make sure that the toe and heel are planed back to the same height as new. 20mm toe and 30mm heel? also that the new plates are not too slippery to walk on in the cold?
if all that is good, reset your bindings for the new toe hieght and you should be good to go.
2) dremal tool. Make a small punch on the outside of the buckles rivit and then drill it out and replace with screw rivits all around.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 

still checking out the buckle part of this deal

Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
2) dremal tool. Make a small punch on the outside of the buckles rivit and then drill it out and replace with screw rivits all around.
my two lower buckle catches (not the elaborate red buckle but the knotched silver aluminum piece that the buckle latches onto) on the icon have no outside rivit exposed. the upper catches however do. could I get a dremmel inside the boot and grind off the catch rivit and replace the catch with the upper catch which has a screw with recessed type nut. If the catch is too long I can cut it down. The icon with the buckles disintegrating is a year newer than the first icons I bought and they redesigned the buckle much to its detriment mechanically. the catch wears out, rounding and eroding so that the buckle does not catch firmly. also, the miniscule gripper part of the buckle that does the latching erodes rapidly. I'm thinking of taking the buckles and buckle catches off the older boots to replace the newer style buckle which is a piece of garbage, though oh so aerodynamic. jerk designers have nothing better to think about. another problem I face is getting inside the shell to acess the inner rivits and then the nut placement. I can wedge the shell open a little with a flat bar, but access is still poor. should I heat the shell with a hair dryer and then pry it. I'm concerned that I will permanently alter the shells shape over the instep area. if I need to order those flush type nuts, we don't have squat up here at Tahoe, what exactly are they called and do you know a site that carries them. I know I should just break down and buy boots after 200 plus days, but that just isn't an option right now, if you know what I mean. thanks so much. it is awesome to get some help on this without feeling guilty about not buying anything at this moment. Oh, yeah, the sole came out really cool and meets your checks. Not sliippery because the polyurethane material for the sole is kind of rubbery though very firm, and I used a v-groove router bit to carve some tread into it. I probably should have used a mirror when routing to carve in some rediculous message that skiers on the hike would read in the snow. next time. thanks again. David
post #4 of 6
don't worry about distorting the shell with just a bit of heat, and then re-closing the shell afterwards (maybe heat up a bit in the closed/normal shape) and you should be fine

change the buckles around as you need to, open the shell with a pry bar, or find someone who is big and strong and get them to hold the shell open while you grind. If you really have time on your hands you can make a caulking gun into a boot spreader

good luck and lets see some pics of the final product
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 

now this could work

thanks again, and I'll get you the pics of the polyurethane sole. god knows I've got extra caulk guns from having to buy another every time I get to job and find I didn't bring it. I'm gonna' make one of those suckers. thanks for the pic. I can totally see how to do the modification. any leads on those flush screw rivits? David
post #6 of 6
the catch for the buckle has a post that is riveted on to the shell on the inside?

so when you remove the catch you can't re-use it?

if this is the case you can't re-use it and will have to find new catches, from other boots, or from a store.

or again if you have WAY to much time, drill the post out from the "inside" and then use a T nut in the hole you made.
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