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Tubeless tires - How to do the 'ghetto" way

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I have been running 'ghetto" tubeless on my Giant since I got it about 3 months ago. If you havent tried tubeless yet on your MTB there really is no excuses to not give this try yet. Your bike will be be almost impossiable to flat, not to mention you can run alot lower pressures giving you better traction, a smoother ride, and in some cases about 1inch more 'travel"

I figure I would write alitte how to with some pictures on this pretty simple task.

so how to do tubeless the "ghetto" way

Stuff you will need

1.your wheels - UST is nice but you really dont need it
2.tires of your choice, UST is nice but you do not need to use UST
3.stans tubeless or any other liquid latex sealer will work
4. x2 20inch Schrader BMX tubes
5.floor pump
6.compressed air
7. something to cut the 20inch tube
8.a open mind


tire levers

1.Take the wheels off the bike - duhhh

2. remove your old tube and tire from the wheel

3. clean the wheel off

4. take out the ringlets that make you wheel work with a presta valve, if you wheel is not drilled wide enough for a scrader valve. Take it to a bike shop or drill it yourself if you feel comfortable doign it.

5. streach the 20inch bmx tube around you wheel, this may require a partner.

6.(pictured below) inflate the 20inch bmx tube so you can untwist it and get a centerline.

7.(pictured below) take what ever you want to cut the tube with(i used scissors) and cut all the way around the tube.

after you are all the ways around the wheel streach the remaining tube over the sides

8.(pictured below) install the tire, making sure to keep the flaps extended on both sides. water could help here as the rubber to contact isnt excactly slippery.

9. take your sealant(I used stans) and put a ample amount in the tires, if you not concerned about weight the more the better. I do this though the sidewall.

10. Using a very strong air compressor(auto repair shop should have this) inflate the tire, the high pressure air should set the bead. IF you are having trouble try put water on the tire bead, if your still having trouble find a stronger air compressor

this is what the tire will look like afterwards

if you notice there is sealant coming out of the bead this is ok. The sealant will eventually clot and seal the air in.

11. Those flaps of excess tube hanging off the edge it time to get rid of those. Just take the scissors and cut around them making sure to leave some excess there. This isnt a beauty contest and with a little hanging out you will be able to use your "rim strips" again should you decide to change tires

12. repeat for the other wheel and enjoy.

caring for you tubeless wheels

the only thin i have noticed that is weird is that the first fews days the tires will leak air. make sure you keep them filled with air so you dont have to reset your bead.

IMO tubeless ghetto or not is the ONLY way to go on a MTB its is one of those things you do and ride better because of it.
post #2 of 8

Thanks for taking the time to show that! Best post I've seen for ages.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
yuck why did the pictures screw up

this cross post has the correct pictures in it, dont know why this appeared right then it got 3 of the smae pictures like that


why cant we edited our threads here.....
post #4 of 8
Better guide than I've seen on many bike forums...

BTW The air compressor is KEY.
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Yukon View Post
Better guide than I've seen on many bike forums...

BTW The air compressor is KEY.
you run it on your 7.3?
post #6 of 8
Air compressors are nice. Sometimes it takes a CO2 cartridge for the 'quick seal' effect, on a tire that doesn't want to lock the bead in.
post #7 of 8
Originally Posted by BushwackerinPA View Post
you run it on your 7.3?
Whoops saw this late.
I tried, thats how I know the compressor is key. Got the Stan's, the 20 inch tube, and couldn't seat it with my hand pump.

I may give it another shot, but my rim flat spotted in the rear, so now I'm hoping to build up a new wheelset, hopefully Mavic 823's laced to a Hadley rear, hope front, or if I get a really good summer job Industry nine hubs:
Then a Minion DHF front and highroller rear.

So those are UST, so it should work out better hopefully.
post #8 of 8
I've found that ghetto + low pressure will almost always lead to the dreaded burp.

Luv Stans notubes rims though - and they're gaining popularity with the cross dresser crew now that stans makes a 29er. What could be better? 135mm spacing with MTB hub laced to a ZTR 355 29er. Run them at 28psi and feel the luv.
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