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Mounting Fischer Free Flex Bindings

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have a pair of used Fischer Free Flex 13 bindings that I am considering mounting myself on a Fischer GS race ski with an unmarked plate (no pre marked holes etc.) However, the free flex mechanism on these bindings allows the toe and heel to slide forwards and back about 1/2 on the rear mount platform (when unmounted) so I am not certain which position it should be in when making my template.

As it turns out I have another pair of skis with a Tyrolia Free Flex+ binding mounted on a factory plate with pre-drilled holes. I've taken that apart and it appears the binding is mounted with the mechanism slid towards the front of the ski. Can I assume this is how I should set up the Fischers?

I've previously downloaded instructions re. Tyrolia Free Flex + bindings, but they only provide guidance with the use of a jig.

Yes, I could always take these to a shop, but A. I'm fanatic about the details and often find shop mounts....well not quite so fanatic, B. I'm handy and have tools, C. The skis and bindings are used, so I'm not putting $1000 of equipment on the line!

If you have experience with these bindings I'd like to hear from you. Also...what's the difference between Free-Flex and Free Flex+. It appears to me that when you engage the Free Flex+ screw it moves the toe-piece back a smidge (unmounted) whereas the Free Flex does not. Something to do with adding pressure to the ski I assume, but frankly I've been stumped by the mechanics of these bindings, and I'm normally pretty mechanicly inclined. And if you want some ammusing answers just ask someone at a ski shop how they work! I've gotten explanation ranging from quantum physics to voo-doo!

post #2 of 10
I would suggest that you seek out a ski shop with a lot of experience in mounting Tyrolia Free Flex bindings. Even experienced ski techs often screw up mounting these bindings unless they mount them on a regular basis. Every time I need to mount one I find it good to review the Tyrolia tech manual and make sure that I allow extra time and have no distractions. If the spacing of the drill holes are not exactly right the free flex mechanism will not work 1. and 2. The correct spacing will usally end up being to close to misdrilled holes as to recuire drilling and installing inserts for all the holes. This is one mount where having the jig is really the best option.
post #3 of 10
I agree with Work2ski. The Freeflex system requires a few extra steps than the standard heel and toe units. I have mounted dozens of them when I worked in a backshop. Every now and then, like Work2ski, I would review mounting procedures. Like Work2ski said, this is one mount where the mounting jig is definitely required.

post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, thank for the responses. Since submitting my original note I succumbed to the fear of screwing this up (further justified by your notes) and took this to my local shop to install. Of course being a nosy tech geek the first thing I did when I got them home was to take off a toe-piece and see what the proper method of setting these up was! The answer, in case anyone cares, is that the binding has to be slid in the forward position with the free-flex devise in the off position for the correct set up. But...as you have both pointed out, there are other things to take into account such as boot length before you could make this all work properly. In the end, a wholeheartedly agree a shop mount with a jig is the only way to go on these bindings.

By the way, the set up on my new skis is exactly the same as the one on my Heard XRC's with a Free Flex+ binding on a pre-marked plate. In other words, I think the shop got it right on the set-up.

But.....as I feared, they didn't get the install PUUUURFECT. The toes are off from each other about 2 mm. Normally you'd never know, but on these skis you can tell because of the marks on the plate. I think electrical tape will have to cure my OCD on this one!

Off to rake some leaves! Thanks again for you help!
post #5 of 10
Just mounted some new to me Tyrolia FF 17s on my new to me Fischer RC4s. Came out sweet (Already drilled plates fit perfectly so no jig needed.)

Any tips on setting forward pressure? Tyro-Tech manual on line says make sure toe binding arms are not "spread".

Any insider tips/tricks on setting binding pressure.

These will be for beer league racing and I generally set DINs to 10 if that makes a difference.
post #6 of 10
The forward pressure marker should be within the scribe lines on the tab. The adjustment is somewhat coarse, so just go with the one closest to the middle. Really nothing special.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Racer256.... Can you provide a link to the Tyro-Tech manual? Thanks!
post #8 of 10
post #9 of 10
Originally Posted by work2ski View Post
Even experienced ski techs often screw up mounting these bindings unless they mount them on a regular basis.
So true. Definitely go in the "to be done when I'm not going to be interrupted every two minutes" pile.
post #10 of 10
You may check that manual for very technical  details.
I suggest to save it on your computer.

But even there i can't find an answer how exactly to place heel for Freeflex Pro.
All previous discussion is related to pressure adjustment.
but we have another adjustment in Freeflex:
You have about 5 mm that allows platform to move under heel when ski cambers.
I guess Dealer mounting equipment will take care of that but right now i am mounting bindings and i will put it in the middle so ski can camber/decamber as it has no bindings.
Let me know if somebody have any idea/suggestions.
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