Originally Posted by philsthrills
So, by looking at Greg's picture, it looks like they add to the sole and then grind the top of the DIN heel and toe pieces. Is that correct?
If that is true, I can't imagine that you could get much lift..? I am thinking that you can only grind so much off.
I was hoping to get a lot of lift if possible.
How much lift do you need? I have seen it go quite high... The lugs are solidly on the boots, so I'd imagine that you can grind down quite a large bit of the lug before the structural integity is compromised, and even then, if it is solidly fastened to the boot you should be fine to remove all or most of the lug to create lift. People who have one leg shorter than the other often do this. I have 4mm on my Dobies to put them at the FIS legal height, and will probably do the same with my Fischer SOMA WC 150's this year (along with canting). Remember that the more you lift the boot, the harder on your knees it is going to be.
One other alternative option is to go see a good boot fitter and see about getting into a smaller boot. For example, my foot measures at a size 10 (usually wear 9.5 or 10 street shoe). My ski boots are a UK 6 (US 7). If I wanted to REALLY put some work in I could probably drop down another complete size, but I like how the 6 fits. So with size 15 feet you could probably get into a 12 or 13 shell if you were willing to put the work and time into it (and tolerate the pain until you got the boot fitting properly). IMO, this option would be a lot better for you in the long run because you wouldn't be putting added stress on your knees by lifting your boots too high.
Oh yeah, Cirque is right about Cattrax. They are definitely a necessity - I use mine quite often.