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Toko Molybdenum LF or Base Prep

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I'm curious if anyone has used either of these.
I understand the Molybedenum LF can be used alone or mixed with one of the Toko LF waxes. They are recommended for man made or old snow.
Anyone have experience with either of these?
Did you apply them straight or mixed?
Any performance feedback?
post #2 of 8
Hmmmm..... I've never heard of molybdenum use in ski wax. I have a couple friends who own the claim to the largest known deposit of molybdenum in the US. They don't want to sell it to the military, which needs it for some type of weapons production (so they told me) even though it would be an extremely lucrative market. I guess they have some sort of deal going with something to do with bikes. I'll have to mention this to them when I see them next, they don't ski, and so wouldn't think of it I expect.
post #3 of 8
I've never used Toko Moltbdenum, but I do use Holmenkol Molybdenum Additiv. It works great in dirty spring snow. I usually mix it with CH8 or CH10. Sometimes with a flouro.
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Toko waxes come in temperature ranges for yellow, red and blue. The grey wax is their moly wax. Available in HF, LF and HC.

Maybe this link will work.

post #5 of 8
I'm not familiar with those particular waxes, but I have used hot wax that contained molybdenum that was very fast in a variety of conditions. It just ironed on in the normal way, nothing to mix or add. I understand that Saucer Wax which is made by a chemist from Colorado School of Mines contains some molybdenum. I've used both the cold and the warm weather Saucer Wax. Both are fast and last for days. I bought a moly wax from Tognar, (don't recall what brand) maybe 5 years ago, that was great for spring conditions. The last time I looked it was no longer in their catalog.
post #6 of 8

Toko Moly...

...comes in two flavors, LF and hydrocarbon only. I use the hydrocarbon only a lot. It has a pretty wide temperature range, the moly seems to give it a little extra glide, and it has graphite in it, which is great here in the Rockies where it's cold and dry, and you need to replenish the graphite in the base from time to time. When the temperature drops, I'll put some blue hydrocarbon on top, when it gets warmer, I will use an LF wax, and I kind of alternate between the Toko LF Red and the LF Moly (grey}. They're both pretty quick, when the temp and humidity is right. Remember that when the temps are low and the humidity is also low, fluoros are contraindicated, and will often stick like glue...stay with something like blue hydrocarbon (and maybe even a sprinkling of extreme cold powder) in these conditions...
post #7 of 8
I have used it to train on extremely abrasive snow conditions (injected SG/DH), worked good. Never outright raced on it though. They are good for high static conditions, but I always had a better mix for races.

It was my all time spring series wax though :P works good.
post #8 of 8
I use the racewax moly for cold and warm temps and have been extremely happy with it. I am not a racer but I have found it to be very fast and virtually stick-free on warm, wet snow.
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