Just received my Il Moro's in the mail last night.
Just received my Il Moro's in the mail last night. I'm pleasantly surprised by the apparent build quality and also about the color. Not only are they not purple or blue as 'net photos make them look, but the transparent gray and black combined with the ratchet area design caused my wife to say they look "bad ass" when she opened the box first before I got home.
Not the most important thing in a boot, but it doesn't hurt, I guess.
Phil might be surprised to know that they're 24.5's. Yes, they are indeed making a size 24 shell for US customers, apparently. Good news for females and small feet guys like myself.
After many, many
boot fits last season all roads led to the Krypton being the best fit for my foot and 24.5 being the size. I tried like crazy at the end of last season to find the Pro ID's or Cross ID's in 24.5 (I even went to Jim's shop, and you told me you wouldn't carry the Il Moro's this season), but no luck and no luck getting liners that small either. Until now.
I'm not a park & pipe guy, but I do like to do the occasional huck or jump just to spice things up. Even though P&P is how the IM's were being marketed, I saw enough of the parts bag to know I could stiffen the forward flex up to something close to a Cross or Pro at full stiff settings if I wanted. The lateral seems as stiff (I don't have Pros to compare them to), the rear seems as stiff, but good god do these things flex forward far and easy with the medium tongue (no hard tongue was included in my box) and no stiffeners in. With stiffeners in the low spot (Krypton's "medium" stiff) what a difference, and with stiffeners in the upper spot (Krypton's "high" stiff) WOW what a difference. It's such a range, I have no idea how I'm going to go out with them on the first day of the season. I haven't been around skiing enough (7 years) to have ever skied the Flexons, but I can tell already that this is going to be quite the journey to figure out what settings I'll want and in what conditions. Probably start at "medium" stiffness and "medium" forward lean and go from there.
With the ratchet design, is it even worth pursuing purchasing a booster strap? Would it fit above the ratchet area?
Now for the hard part and something that probably deserves its own thread. Not only did I find out last season that my original boots were too big, but I found out that I'm so bow-legged that I've never known yet what it means to ski remotely close to flat. Just standing in a ski position in my old boots revealed huge amounts of daylight on my inner foot side, with the outer side of my foot always being on edge. A podiatrist measured one of my ankle to calf angles at 6.5 degrees and the other at 6. Normal is 2-3, if I remember correctly. And while boots like the Kryptons do have a "cant" adjustment, my condition looks to be too drastic for that to significantly help. So I'll need to find a good place to shave/cant the bottom of my boot to the right angles. Not having actually skied this boot yet (I demoed some Pros last year), and not having heat molded the liners yet has me wondering what order to do these things. Anyone know if I should wait to heat mold my liners until after that is done?
Also I'm not sure whether to have an orthotic footbed made, similar to the orthotics I wear in my regular shoes but made specifically for skiing (my podiatrist mentioned somebody in Seattle that does it). I know I won't be using my corks - they always killed the ball of my feet and I never knew why until now. The 24.5 liners are already pretty snug on my feet with Dalbello's default cheapo footbed in there, so I'm confused about where the orthotic footbed would go and what to do about it during the ID liner heat mold process. Any suggestions?