Originally Posted by Buckwild
I have all of my new ski's stone gound flat first of all, then have the shop bevel to .5 on the base and 1.0 on the side. I then by hand (for consistency) bring the base up to a .7 or 1.0, I can ski either base bevel with no problem. As soon as I start increasing the side bevels the skis become very hooky and hard to ski, I have been leaving it at about 1.5 on the edge (similar to the factory). Keep in mind, I have a really messed up alignment issue with my right leg and hip inparticular. I have 4.0 degrees of canting planned into the right boot sole and my ski still doesn't lay flat on the snow. I also have the "Duck Walk" issue with my right leg where my foot points more East than North, I'm going to try a pair of the Fischer Soma's this season to see if that helps. I have no problem skiing any ski's out of the wrapper, only that I desire more edge grip and performance for high speed carving and racing. Even some Stockli models with a base bevel of 0 Degrees (flat) under foot and .5 on the tip and tail, present no problem for me. You are correct in your assessment that the base bevel should be more critical than the side bevel but I'm the exception. I'm experimenting and have the tools to bevel up to 4.0 on the edge in .5 increments and up to 3.0 base bevel. If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears as this has been a major struggle.
I will almost guarantee that the side bevel itself is not the issue. this sounds like classic "hanging Burr" problem. A hanging Bur is created whenever you work on your side edge and would be more of a problem when changing side edge bevesl because of the use of a file. I have posted much information on hanging burrs and how to fix it.
But basically when you work on your side edge a microscopic curl of steel is created that points straight down into the snow from your side edge past your base edge. It is this "ridge" that must be "knocked off" or your skis will ski very grabby just as though the were railed. they will be very unpredictable and not roll on or off edge smoothly. To remove this; the final step in the side edge sharpening process, take a diamond file, hard rubber dressing block or an arknsas stone and with your ski base facing away from you, edge at the top put the stone flat against the base edge and run the stone with medium pressure using your thumb as a guide on the side wall (which is on the top of your skis now) from tail to tip. you can hear the stone when correctly in contact with the base edge. Your stone should extend slightly above the side edge of the ski.
I almost guarantee this is why you are having side edge problems!
I have similar alignment issues (right leg and hip also) and it is base bevel that is the problem not side bevel.
also, why waste all that money to have shop put nevels on your skis when you are just going to hand tune them anyway.
A good stone grind is only about $20.00.
Without exception all of our skis (and there are about 26 pair in the garage right now) all skied extremly well with the factory tune.
Although i did change my Monster 88's to a 2 degree side edge and changed my SS speeds and isl RD to a 3 degree side edge. there was not a problem with the factory tune i just like a different tune then what they came with. Big improvement. all of our Atomic's came with a 3 degree side edge. and skied absolutly the smoothest when brand new.