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Railflex Bindings on K2 PE's?

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Anyone ever used the tyrolia/fischer railflex bindings on a set of K2 Public Enemies, or any other all mountain ski? Just got a pair of 179cm PE's from Steep and Cheap and am considering mounting them with a railflex plate so that I can just switch my railflex bindings back and forth between them and my Fischer RX8's.

Park performance isn't an issue for me with the lifter plate since I don't do park. I'll be using the PE as an all-mountain type ski.

Thanks,
Mike
post #2 of 16
If you had the Railflex bindings wouldn't it be possible to move the binding fore and aft between park and freeride setting? If this is the case the only downside I could see is the extra weight, but the increased versatility would be great.

Anyone done this?
post #3 of 16
I am planning to do this. not so much to ride freestyle though, more for all mountain cruising and hopefully bumps and trees.

I suppose you could use these in the parks but I am not sure if the extra height due to the plate would prove to be an impediment.

I got the plate, just have to mount it. not sure if I need wider brakes or if the 80mm ones I have will suffice with a little bending. They do sell 93mm brakes but I wonder if that will be too wide for the 85mm waist on the PE;s.

goodluck!
post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 
BBronco: Yes, you can move the binding quite a bit with the railflex. I was planning on mounting it at +2 so that I can easily get it back near the freeride (+0.5) mark by just moving the binding to the back screw hole and to +3.5 by moving it to the forward screw hole. These changes can be made on the hill using only a coin. You can also vary the position even more by taking the binding off of the rail and resetting the toe an heel pieces.

Tek: I'm wondering about the brakes as well, but am thinking that it will be possible to bend them out 5mm to fit the PE's. Not worried about using the PE's in the park with the lifter plate since I don't do any park.

Mike
post #5 of 16
You may not need to mount the bindings +2 tpo get the location you want. Unless you have really big feet you can also adjust the boot settings to get even more back and forth movement. I don't think the Railflex stuff adds enough weight to make a difference. The plate adds a little height but again I dno't think it's a big deal. Moving bindings from ski to ski is easy and makes it easier to carry several skis on a trip. Take the bindings off and put them in a suitcase. Pack the flat skis in a ski bag. Be careful with the brackets that set the boot size, they're not very strong.
post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
Steve:

Yes, I do realize that I'll be able to get lots more movement out of the binding system if I need it. My boots are 307mm so I'll have quite a bit of room to move the bindings around on the rails. Was planning on mounting flat bindings at +3 so mounting the plate at +2 is with the goal of being able to easily adjust from around +3 back toward the freeride mark by only switching the hole the mounting screw is in without having to take the toe and heel off of the ski.

Oppourtunity to travel more easily is also appealing, though it may mean I'll bring 2 sets of skis where I would have brought one and travelling easier may not mean lighter!

Mike
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 

Railflex 2 plates at LevelNine

Just went ahead and pulled the trigger and got 2 sets of Railflex 2 plates from Level Nine Sports.

http://www.levelninesports.com/railf...es-p-1179.html

Got 2 sets shipped for $30, $10 per set plus $10 shipping. One set for the PE's and another spare set, since I'm sure the quiver will grow in the future .

Thanks for the help.

Mike
post #8 of 16
are you mounting the plate yourself or having it done at a shop?

let us know how it goes
post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Tek:

Considering mounting it myself since the plate acts as it's own template and all I have to do is accurately find the centerline of the ski. I'll likely invest in a 4.1 X 9mm bit so that I can drill the holes cleanly. I have a drill press and can accurately set the depth to prevent drilling too deep.

I also have a copy of the tyrolia tech manual to help with the setup.

Find it tough to justify paying someone $25 just to drill a few holes for me.

Mike
post #10 of 16
You may not need it with a drill press, but they make a little gizmo that's sized to fit inside the holes in the plate that has a small point on it's end. Set the plate on the ski exactly where you want it. Use the little gizmo to punch a hole exactly in the middle of the hole in the plate, then drill a small pilot hole and then your regular hole for the screw. We use the gizmos for mounting heavy hinges on large metal doors.
post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip steve, I'll check it out.

Mike
post #12 of 16
that;s awesome. take pictures of your railflex mounting project if you can.
post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 

Finally mounted the railflex II plates

Just wanted to follow up on my thread from the end of last season and let you know that I finally got up the nerve, got the right tools, and mounted up a set of railflex II plates on my 179cm K2 Public Enemys.

Overall it was a bit nerve wracking but not hard at all. Plates serve as their own template and you just need to be careful about your measurements and get the plate onto the center of the ski before marking for the holes.

I highly recommend buying a binding mounting drill bit. Makes it unecessary to set the depth for the holes. The drill bit stops itself when the proper depth is reached.

Didn't take any pictures, but I'll try to work you through the steps of the process:

1. Clamp ski to workbench.
2. Apply painters tape to the top of the ski to make marking the layout lines easy.
3. Mark a line across the ski where you want the center of the plate to be.
4. Measure the ski width in 3 places and draw a center line down the middle of the ski.
6. Double check all of your measurements.
7. Triple check all of your measurements.
5. Align the plate based on your layout lines and mark the location of the 8 holes you need to drill.
6. Center punch the hole locations so that the drill bit won't wander as you start to drill.
7. Say a prayer and drill the holes. I used a hand drill and it worked fine.
8. Cleaned up the edges of the holes with a razor blade so there wasn't any stray plastic.
9. Put a drop of glue in each hole. I used Gorilla Glue, but any waterproof glue would work fine.
10. Align front of the Railflex plate and screw the 4 screws in part way.
11. Break off the two washer like tabs on the front two holes of the plate by pushing down on the plate. You will hear a snap when they do break off. They break off and stay in the screw hole of the plate. Don't break them off and discard them before mounting the plate!
12. Tighten the screws down to just hand tight. Don't overtighten or you may strip the holes.
13. Repeat steps 9-12 with the back portion of the plate.
14. Snap on the plate covers and you are done.

1st ski took about 1 hour because I was nervous and hadn't done it before. Second one only took about 20 minutes because I felt like I knew what I was doing.

Skied the PE's on Monday and loved them. No issues at all with the plates I mounted.

All in all, was very easy to do and I won't hesitate to do it again.
post #14 of 16
Thanks for the follow up...a few questions as I am considering the same set up:

1. I know you said that you don't do the park, but do you think the added weight or height of the railflex would be a hinderance to beginner level park stuff such as a 180?

2. Have you played around with the binding locations and if so, where do you prefer it for different types of terrain?

3. Did you end up bending the brakes or buying something wider?

Thanks,
Matt
post #15 of 16
Don't forget to space the front/back plates about 3mm before marking the holes. There absolutely has to be a gap between the plates or else you will introduce a serious dead spot in the ski flex when the front and back plates bind up. Probably want to do it after your first step 7....
post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thanks 219. Didn't include that step because I didn't do it when I mounted them up. Didn't notice any dead spot when I skied them, so hopefully I did it by accident! There's really no going back to fix it at this point, so I'll have to live with them the way they are.

Mike
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