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Does the +15 position on Tyrolia RFD 11 make much difference...?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I have the Head im72, 170cm length...
I used them this season in the center or +0 position...
What can i expect, if much, by using them in the +15 position...
I know they should be a little quicker in the turns...
Does it make that much difference...
i am assuming the +15 stands for moving the bindings 15mm forward, or is it 1.5 cm....?
My wife thinks i have lost my mind....
I have been telling her I can't wait until November, the ski season starts again...
post #2 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspacher View Post
i am assuming the +15 stands for moving the bindings 15mm forward, or is it 1.5 cm....?
15mm is the same as 1.5cm.
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Gee thanks...
I knew that but did not realize it until you pointed it out...
post #4 of 20
When there's snow, play with the different positions and see what you think. With a pocket sized toolkit it'll take you 1-2 minutes to swap between runs. Play with it under different conditions.
post #5 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by spindrift View Post
With a pocket sized toolkit
Actually, at least on my wife's Fischer AMC 70s, the slot is shaped to allow you to use a coin. No toolkit necessary.
post #6 of 20
Makes a small but distinct difference, especially if you move the binding from one extreme to the other: 3 cm. Impact will vary from ski to ski, however, since each will have different mount line relative to sidecut, flex pattern etc. Noticed a real change on my AMC 76's, not so much on my RX8's, fairly minor change on iM 82's, and so on.

Not always appreciated that with any RF, you can actually have a far larger range of adjustment by sliding binding off rail, changing position of boot relative to plastic plate increments. If it's a 300 mm sole, for instance, you can move both the toe and heel positions say 20 mm forward as long as you keep the distance at 300 mm. So that'll make your neutral position in the -1.5, 0, +1.5 already 2 cm forward. Easy to do if you're mechanically inclined, otherwise have a shop do it cuz you can damage the interface if you force things.
post #7 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspacher View Post
I have the Head im72, 170cm length...
I used them this season in the center or +0 position...
What can i expect, if much, by using them in the +15 position...
I know they should be a little quicker in the turns...
Does it make that much difference...
i am assuming the +15 stands for moving the bindings 15mm forward, or is it 1.5 cm....?
My wife thinks i have lost my mind....
I have been telling her I can't wait until November, the ski season starts again...
On every ski I've tried that could do this, there was a huge and immediately noticeable difference. I can't see why it won't work the same way for you too. Unless maybe your 95 lbs and skiing lumber.
post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 
I think the last time I was 95lbs...I was in elementary school...
post #9 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
Makes a small but distinct difference, especially if you move the binding from one extreme to the other: 3 cm. Impact will vary from ski to ski, however, since each will have different mount line relative to sidecut, flex pattern etc. Noticed a real change on my AMC 76's, not so much on my RX8's, fairly minor change on iM 82's, and so on.

Not always appreciated that with any RF, you can actually have a far larger range of adjustment by sliding binding off rail, changing position of boot relative to plastic plate increments. If it's a 300 mm sole, for instance, you can move both the toe and heel positions say 20 mm forward as long as you keep the distance at 300 mm. So that'll make your neutral position in the -1.5, 0, +1.5 already 2 cm forward. Easy to do if you're mechanically inclined, otherwise have a shop do it cuz you can damage the interface if you force things.
What a great piece of info.

I was about to post that on my stock settings boot centre to binding, i.e.0 I find the AMC 76 hard work compared to my RC4 race skis as you would expect. I used to have my RC4s forward but they wanted to turn before I wanted them to.
I now ski them in the 0 setting, I did notice a big difference from +1.5 back to 0.

On my AMC 76 I also found a big difference moving the binding forward to +1.5, at 0 I found I was really in the backseat compared to the RC4 and the change made the ski livable with although I hankered after more maybe another 1.5cm.

Now you have told me that little gem of a binding trick, I will move the bindings even further forward so that I have a similar feel to the RC4.

So to answer the question. Yes it does make a big difference to both pairs of my skis.
post #10 of 20
It is a nice little trick for smaller boot sizes; for sole lengths much over 320mm there is not a whole lot of room left on the rails to go past the fore/aft extremes.

It's a great way to adjust in finer increments if 15mm is too much.

Try to determine where your BOF is in the boot, and also find the ski's sidecut center. If you can line those up with tweaks to the RF position, that's a good starting point. You certainly wouldn't want to go forward of that mount!
post #11 of 20
Thread Starter 
Now i have all of these ideas of what to try...
You guys make me wish it was February again...
post #12 of 20
There are soooooo many reasons I wish it were February again. Well, okay, March.
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by skier219 View Post
It is a nice little trick for smaller boot sizes; for sole lengths much over 320mm there is not a whole lot of room left on the rails to go past the fore/aft extremes.

It's a great way to adjust in finer increments if 15mm is too much.

Try to determine where your BOF is in the boot, and also find the ski's sidecut center. If you can line those up with tweaks to the RF position, that's a good starting point. You certainly wouldn't want to go forward of that mount!
My boot is 336mm so as you say not much room to adjust, I may only need another 5mm and it could make all the difference.

Now where can I ski in July?
post #14 of 20
Sean...

Castleford
Milton Keynes
Tamworth
Countless dry slopes
Les Deux Alpes
Hentertux
Zermatt
...and that's not counting the southern hemisphere!
post #15 of 20
The Saas Fee glacier is great in July. Lovely village too & the Park Hotel is superb.

Unfortunately it'll just be Castleford for me in July.
post #16 of 20
Just got 1.5cm on my binding position that gives me +3cm as a max.

Thanks Beyond

Now flights to Hintertux as that looks favorite

Sean
post #17 of 20

forward of bof/crs position

Quote:
Originally Posted by skier219 View Post

Try to determine where your BOF is in the boot, and also find the ski's sidecut center. If you can line those up with tweaks to the RF position, that's a good starting point. You certainly wouldn't want to go forward of that mount!
skier 219,

what would you predict would happen if one placed bof forward of crs mark? ...

on a 178 nordi afterburner i found that when boot is placed with the bof lined up with the crs mark this puts the boot midpt mark a full 2 cm forward of the mfr's mark on the ski....

is this good/bad or ?....

then to make a 178 ski turn like a 170 ski, could one place boot bof even more forward of crs mark....

what say?
post #18 of 20
The first part (BOF/CRS) forward of the manufacturer's boot mid-point mark isn't a surprise at all. We've had a lot of threads that discussed exactly that, and it's common for manufacturers of 'Austrian feel' skis to recommend a more rearward mounting point.

I don't think your second comment will prove to be true at all. The purpose of BOF/CRS is to evenly distribute force over the ski edge just with lateral pressure rather than lots of leverage of the boot tongue. Moving the binding even farther forward just gets your weight too far forward and makes it difficult to control the tail of the ski?
post #19 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnSean View Post
My boot is 336mm so as you say not much room to adjust, I may only need another 5mm and it could make all the difference.

Now where can I ski in July?

Check this post for some good info:

http://forums.epicski.com/showpost.p...65&postcount=5

Sounds like you can probably get another 10mm beyond the +15 point according to that info. Be sure there is at least a few mm between the binding and the forward stops on the rail, for ski flex.
post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by nfp158 View Post
skier 219,

what would you predict would happen if one placed bof forward of crs mark? ...

on a 178 nordi afterburner i found that when boot is placed with the bof lined up with the crs mark this puts the boot midpt mark a full 2 cm forward of the mfr's mark on the ski....

is this good/bad or ?....

then to make a 178 ski turn like a 170 ski, could one place boot bof even more forward of crs mark....

what say?
You really should not go forward of the BOF=CRS point, else the tails will feel real long and unwieldy. You'd also be turning the ski from ahead of the sidecut center, which would probably feel odd and make the skis nervous.
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