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TR: Reimer's Sport Climbing 4-28-07

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
We (me, Dan and Steve) left at 6AM to drive to Reimer's in Austin, since the forecast predicted rain starting around 3, and we wanted to get in a lot of climbing before it started raining.

The rock was dry nearly everywhere this time around, which was much appreciated, as it was very wet the last time we went out there.

We warmed up on 8-Flake, a 5.8, then did Prototype (5.10d). Dan ran up it, then I finally got it clean. The last 4 or 5 moves were soaked the last time we were out there, and I couldn't finish it. I got it clean this time, so I was pretty stoked.

Dan




Me figuring out the moves at the beginning of Prototype, Steve on belay



Clipping...


Near the end, coming to the crux


Cool silhouette while cleaning the route

_______________________________

Dan and Steve wanted to try Liposuction (5.12a) again, as they both sent it the last time they went, albeit with many falls. They wanted to try to get it clean, or at least more clean than before.

Stick clips are your friend, although the ******* thing broke off the pole



Straddling the big stalactite


My favorite shot, "oh **** the next bolt is all the way up there?!"


Clipping right before the crux


Trying the crux dyno


Falling off the crux


______________

Steve then sent it with 2 falls.





Sticking the crux


Done (pic needs rotating)


________________

Me on a 5.10a (stick-clipped again). The start SUCKED, only hard part of the route. We tried a few different things, but I ended up sticking my foot between the rock and a nearby tree and using that to power up onto.


Clip


Lousy exposure, but the tree visible here is the one I used to aid the start


Cross-body clipping is always interesting. Nice sidepull hold though.


Steve made friends with a cactus at the top when he did it


_____________________

I led this 5.11a up to the 2nd clip, but I didn't feel secure clipping off of a sketchy sidepull for the third clip. I came down and let Dan lead it, then I toproped it. I finished it on toprope and was pretty stoked, as this route was my first 5.11, although toprope=JONG. I'll lead it the next time we go.



Small crimp.


_____________________


It was a great day, the forecasted rain never did show up. Next time, I'm leading the 11 clean...
post #2 of 4
Nice trip report. Looks like the climbing is really coming along.

Not in a million years will you catch me hanging inverted on a face of rock :

Thanks for posting the rock climbing stoke!
post #3 of 4
That is a cool day in deed!

Thanks for sharing!
The bolts must not have been Marker, since they didn't "release"
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trekchick View Post
The bolts must not have been Marker, since they didn't "release"

Indeed. I'll have to throw some Metolius bindings on my next pair of sticks.
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