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Help with Turn Radius and Contact Length

post #1 of 92
4/23/07 at 11:33am
Thread Starter 
Example: If a woman is 5'6" 36"/25"/38" what is her turn radius and contact length? Also what kind of conditions and terrain would said shape be good for?

Would a tail that is wider than the ti....tips make her unstable at speed or varied conditions? What besides a turkey could she carve?
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post #2 of 92
4/23/07 at 11:36am
Are you using chocolate lifters? What size and flavor?
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post #3 of 92
4/23/07 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post
Are you using chocolate lifters? What size and flavor?
No lifter, especially silicon.
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post #4 of 92
4/23/07 at 11:55am
based on PM calculator

A 5' 5" women a 165.1 length

36/25/38

91.4/63.5/96.5 would be a 17.3 radius!

A cheater GS sidecut

Contact length varies by mounting position!
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post #5 of 92
4/23/07 at 11:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
Would a tail that is wider than the ti....tips make her unstable at speed or varied conditions? ?
Once you've hooked up, she is more difficult to release.
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post #6 of 92
4/23/07 at 11:59am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
Contact length varies by mounting position!
Hmm, would you suggest a rearward mounting position? :
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post #7 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:01pm
Thread Starter 
In regards to tuning, I would imagine a diamond would be suggested....what about waxing?
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post #8 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
Hmm, would you suggest a rearward mounting position? :
Absolutley!!!!

Slightly wider tail is very stable & locks in perfectly!
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post #9 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
In regards to tuning, I would imagine a diamond would be suggested....what about waxing?

Diamond is the smartest accessory!

Waxing should be done regularly as needed!
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post #10 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:18pm
Thread Starter 
Is it possible to mount this equipment more than once without damaging the integrity?
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post #11 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:21pm
There was a french video somewheres, something about 10mm+ between...
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post #12 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
Is it possible to mount this equipment more than once without damaging the integrity?
I think you should lubricate the mount to reduce friction and extend freeride range of motion.
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post #13 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirquerider View Post
I think you should lubricate the mount to reduce friction and extend freeride range of motion.
In certain applications, I have had good luck with tequila as the lubricant.
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post #14 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:26pm
If you use diamond, you will decrease suction. Using diamonds is warranted only in very sticky conditions.
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post #15 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:27pm
Ethanol actually oxidizes and breaks down the barrier to friction provided by proper lubrication. This is probably a mistake.
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post #16 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:31pm
Also, if conditions are virgin powder, you may want to go longer than 165. As we know, contact length is important in virgin pow, and mounting too short, or too far forward, has grave consequences. OTOH, its hard to know is width or length is more important in these situations. Ideally both are up to the challenge.
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post #17 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:40pm
Thread Starter 
Would she be OK in a quiver? I am all for demoing, but I wouldn't get want some demos of my own.
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post #18 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:42pm
As with most demos, the best plan is to go with a buddy and trade off frequently. That way you get to try the most variety and make the best use of your time.
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post #19 of 92
4/23/07 at 12:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirquerider View Post
As with most demos, the best plan is to go with a buddy and trade off frequently. That way you get to try the most variety and make the best use of your time.
One per side
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post #20 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:01pm
I disagree.

Every year you need to demo at least 10 models before you choose which 5 to use regularly.

Make sure they work well with a functional gap between the legs.

Also, you want to have a good pole plant as well.

Now, there is also a technique they need to be good at called "Panties Moved To Side" where, when the panties are down around the ankles, they pick up the inside ankle, and tilt the foot (no rotary required). Now, quickly switch to the other foot, and with a phantom move, slick the panties across the floor.

...and don't get me started on the bumps. (best technique there is to feel your way down them, touching on the top, then sliding down the valleys. If you are unsure, just stay on the top for a bit)
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post #21 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:11pm
Thread Starter 
Regards to tuning...my experience in that hand tuning works best.
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post #22 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:17pm
Never underestimate the power of a good machine tune, but in general I agree that a hand's on approach is preferred.
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post #23 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirquerider View Post
Never underestimate the power of a good machine tune,
D-cell? 220v?
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post #24 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:22pm
240V AC all the way.
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post #25 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:30pm
Machine tuning makes them rather unresponsive and much more difficult to hand tune later. It has been reported that the machine tuning lasts a very long on some models. It can take quite long for the responsiveness and hold of hand tuning to reappear.

After a machine tune, it is best to first strip completly using an alcohol based solvent. A base grind is suggested to begin this tuning session. Do not forget to dress them properly prior to continuing the hand tune.

Gently hone until they become keen. You should see a sheen appear. Then begin hot-waxing. Hotbox now if you can; hotboxing is highly recommended for the first tuning session after a machine tune.
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post #26 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigE View Post
Once you've hooked up, she is more difficult to release.
Pre-release is NEVER a good thing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
In regards to tuning, I would imagine a diamond would be suggested....what about waxing?
A good wax technique is necessary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirquerider View Post
I think you should lubricate the mount to reduce friction and extend freeride range of motion.
I understand some mounts are self lubricating.:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
Now, there is also a technique they need to be good at called "Panties Moved To Side" where, when the panties are down around the ankles, they pick up the inside ankle, and tilt the foot (no rotary required). Now, quickly switch to the other foot, and with a phantom move, slick the panties across the floor.
Are you thinking of material for the pantie tree? This is a technique that could come in handy for that application.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wear The Fox Hat View Post
Also, you want to have a good pole plant as well.
...and don't get me started on the bumps. (best technique there is to feel your way down them, touching on the top, then sliding down the valleys. If you are unsure, just stay on the top for a bit)
I was told this is best in an aggressive manner, but I like to take it easy in the bumps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
Regards to tuning...my experience in that hand tuning works best.
Hand tuning is always the best to get a real feel of the equipment, and know what to expect to get from her in return.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post
Would she be OK in a quiver?
Like all good gear, she loves a good Quiver!
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post #27 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:38pm
This thread , excellent.

I'm always in favor of multiple tunes before using my equipment, to ensure that everything slides smoothly.
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post #28 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigE View Post
Machine tuning makes them rather unresponsive and much more difficult to hand tune later. It has been reported that the machine tuning lasts a very long on some models. It can take quite long for the responsiveness and hold of hand tuning to reappear.

After a machine tune, it is best to first strip completly using an alcohol based solvent. A base grind is suggested to begin this tuning session. Do not forget to dress them properly prior to continuing the hand tune.

Gently hone until they become keen. You should see a sheen appear. Then begin hot-waxing. Hotbox now if you can; hotboxing is highly recommended for the first tuning session after a machine tune.
This is a man who knows how to properly maintain quality gear.
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post #29 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:47pm
This is an appropriate thread to be started by someone who is a self-professed gear whore. Ironically, with this gear, its nice to have variety and choice, and to even experiment with the maintenance and handling. Of course we all have our most favorite and reliable piece to fall back on when we are done playing around. You have to pay particular attention and give loving care to that piece, and it will never let you down.
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post #30 of 92
4/23/07 at 1:51pm
Thread Starter 
With this piece of gear, initiation in critical to get the best release.
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