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3/4 width cupping

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
The base is NOT railed.

Now imagine that the front, about a handspan from the tip, is, oh, 0.8mm down in the middle and meets the true bar about 1-2cm from the edges. The "trough" if you will, continues back towards the tail and may drift out to meet one of the edges towards the tail.

How do you hand tuners deal with this? Best practice?

And no, I'm not speaking of the Atomic tip divot.
post #2 of 5
Return 'em for a warranty replacement
post #3 of 5
Sounds like you have canted Catarafts for boards. They're supposedly more stable and track better at speed. :

I got some used Havocs this year with similar 'issues', though more railed than 'troughed'. I halved the difference with a body file and they're fine for my purposes and I did not have any unmanageable problems on hardpack and it doesn't matter in the softer snows or powder. YMMV
post #4 of 5
Through tuning my own skis (and I've had a bunch) I've noticed that most skis seem to have a slight depression in the middle of the base just behind where the tip stops and the "flat" base of the ski starts. I always assumed that this was an inadvertant result of the manuracturing process, since I have never heard it mentioned before and have found it on almost all my skis. My experience is that the depression is only about 1.5" long, does not extend down the base of the ski, and cannot be elimintated through tuning.
post #5 of 5

As one of my teammates said...

...flat is flat. Or to put it another way, not flat is not flat. I'd say your bases are railed. You can call it anything you want, but they aren't flat. Get 'em ground flat by somebody who knows what he's doing. Then go do whatever hand tuning is necessary, which is basically stripping back the sidewall, getting the geometry set (base/side bevels), polishing the base and side edges, doing whatever you have to with the structure, and hot waxing/base waxing...
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