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# Edge angles

I tune my own skis but yesterday I sat and thought about my edge angles a bit and this question popped in my head and realized that I really am not sure about this and have just been going through the motions:

If the base bevel is 1 degree, that one degree is in relation to the ski base, this much I know. However, if the side edge angle is 1 degree as well is that in relation to the base or to the base edge bevel?

I use a 1 degree Swix base beveler and use a 91 degree SVST side edge beveler. I have shims for .5 degrees and 2 degrees.

My goal is to have a 1 degree base and to be able to tune skis with a 1 degree edge bevel as well as those with a 3 degree edge angle.
From another thread (about changing from a 1° to 0.5° base bevel):

IN SVST terms, I believe, the 3°/87° (relative to base) you seek would be 93° (relative to 91° inside angle of edge guide; plus 2° shim).

HTH
Thanks, so then a 3° edge bevel is actually only 2° in relation to a 1° base bevel, right?
A better way to think of the side bevel is relative to the base and a 90° corner, and is independent of the base bevel. Relative to the base, the side bevel is 87° inside angle, or 3° off of a 90° corner (relative to base).
Thank you very much!
You're welcome!

If the steel edge is very thin on older skis (- let say only 1 mm), would you still use the same base bevel? Would you bevel only the width of the steel edge? Logically, there should be the same performance only if you bevel again about 2 mm of width of the ski, which means that I should bevel 1 mm of the steel edge and also 1 mm of the p-tex? What do you suppose?

Thanks. Lukas

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sakullic

If the steel edge is very thin on older skis (- let say only 1 mm), would you still use the same base bevel?

Yes.
Quote:

Logically, there should be the same performance only if you bevel again about 2 mm of width of the ski, which means that I should bevel 1 mm of the steel edge and also 1 mm of the p-tex?

Except that you will put extremely high loads on that plastic corner, wearing it down until the effective corner is at the metal edge and the plastic is softly rounded.
Quote:

What do you suppose?

Thanks. Lukas

I suppose that aggressive base bevelers may actually cut into the plastic but their errors tend to get sanded down and scrubbed off leaving only a vague down-convex section in the plastic near each edge.

﻿﻿I never really thought about it because when tuning, the angle is always set on the tuner or it is defined by the fixed guide. Since all tuning tools is gauged from the base (and not the base bevel), the angle must be from the base. I'm not saying I was right this whole time but I was at least consistent FWTW.

Richie, You are thinking way too hard Go ===

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman

Richie, You are thinking way too hard Go ===

You must understand, that tuning can be a hobby all onto itself. I used to tune so I can ski.  Now, I think I may tune for tuning's sake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrzinwin

You must understand, that tuning can be a hobby all onto itself. I used to tune so I can ski.  Now, I think I may tune for tuning's sake.

So, you wear out your edges without putting the skis on snow?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chanwmr

So, you wear out your edges without putting the skis on snow?

I'm not that bad yet----but it costs about \$10 to get a quick edge tune.  For the amount of time, effort, and money spent on buying all the bevel guides, files, stones, etc etc--it's not really worth it, unless you enjoy the actual tuning process itself.  There's just something strange satisfying about filing down an edge...

Edited by mrzinwin - 3/5/2009 at 09:36 am

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrzinwin

There's just something strange satisfying about filing down an edge...

Like most other handy-man/woman work around the house, it's therapeutic for sure -- once gotten going that is. What I hate about ski tuning is to have to yank myself off the couch just before midnight because I was too tired, lazy or forgetful to do them before that time.

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