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Difference in different twin tips/bindings

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Scored my boots, now moving on to skis.
Looking for skis and bindings now (skis being priority)
Looking for 170-175 twin tips with 84-90 waist.
Brands/Models looking at
K2 Public Enemy
Line Prophet 90s
4frnt twin tip
salomon teneighty foil
rossi scratch sprayer.
All are roughly the same dimensions. If the numbers are the same, what are the important differences between the skis? what should I look for?
Follow up, what are the key differences in bindings other than weight? What are the good deals to look for at the end of the season.
Thanks for the replies (if there are any )
post #2 of 9
Ski wise, you have some good choices here, but you need to think about how you like to ski. The K2's will be rather tortionally stiff, and more of an all-mountain ski and ski very much from the tip (ball of foot). The Line's ski similar to the K2's, but are softer both longitudinally and tortionally, however, they do hold a good edge, they just seem a bit more playful than the K2's. The 4FRNT's will most likely have a much more forward mount position (more centered) and may feel like they have too much tail and not enough tip, while they will ski well, it can take some time to get used to them. The Salomon's, these are probably the lightest of the bunch, and personally, I find them too light and too soft and historically I have just not found them to last that long. Both the Rossi's and Salomon's will ski slightly more heel baised than the K2's and Line's but they both have some great reputations. In terms of the Rossi though, I have heard more favorable reports and seen almost all Scratch BC's and very few Sprayers on the mountain.

In terms of bindings, there are a few release differences, but the biggest thing to keep in mind is that most bindings have a great deal of plastic. Many people prefer to go with Look's Jib binding (the old pivot) because it is not overly heavy and offers the most metal and least plastic without adding much weight or cost.
post #3 of 9
Here is my brief summary of a few of the skis you list plus a couple others in the 80-90mm TT category.

Rossi Scratch Sprayer FS - 80mm under foot. Good all-around ski but it is the narrowest of the group. Very good carver, okay in crud and minimal amounts of powder. Very forgiving.

Rossi Scratch FS - 84mm under foot. Slightly stiffer & wider than Sprayer version. Very good carver for a twin, great in crud, moguls, slush and a couple inches of powder. The sweet spot of the ski is slightly forward which makes it a pain in deep powder without sitting back. If you are mainly looking for a twin for groomers this is the one. Very tough ski.

K2 Public Enemy - 85mm under foot. Very popular ski in this area. Not as good at high speed carving as the Scratch FS but it is stable at high speeds. More forgiving in moguls and crud. Better in deep powder. Very tough ski.

Salomon Foil - 87mm under foot. A finesse ski. Lots of side-cut which makes it hooky in crud and slush. Fun to carve on but not at upper speeds. If you are a lighter skier that doesn't ski super fast on the groomers it is worth looking into. If you are a big or strong skier or ski lots of heavy snow look elsewhere.

Head Mojo 90 - 90mm under foot. Decent carver, great in crud and powder. Fairly forgiving, but not as forgiving as the PEs. Light. I'd pick this over any of the skis you listed for a one ski quiver with a biased towards off-piste.

Nordica Ignition - 84mm under foot. Very versital twin. Great all-mountain ski. Not as forgiving as some of the other twins in the list. Very good carver, very good in crud, slush and a few inches of powder. Not bad in deeper powder (though not as good as the Mojo 90.) I'd pick this one as a one ski quiver with an equal biased towards piste and off-piste skiing.
post #4 of 9
Thought about a Karma?
post #5 of 9
I can't believe I forgot to add the Karma since its so popular. Karmas are 87cm under foot. Very good on groomers and hard snow. Decent in powder, great in heavy (but not too deep) powder, slush & crud. Very good at speed in crud. Not as easy to skid around in moguls as some other twins, nor are they as forgiving in moguls, so you need to ski moguls with better technique. (Because I ski moguls in bad light so much I prefer some other skis more.)
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the replies

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch.
I ski in Alaska (chugach state park is literally my backyard)
But I don't heli-ski, once I get a better powder ski, I may do some hiking. My hill is quite short and not very steep. I'll get there when a fresh snow hits, but mostly I am in the park doing basic jumps. Biggest issue is losing speed after a jump and getting it back for the next one. This will be the one ski quiver. Moguls almost never (they don't make them at my hill and I rarely get to Aleyeska (which is to say not at all yet this season)). I will ski on piste when bored or my son wants me to ski with him (he snowboards: )
Again, thanks for the replies and the leads on some other skis.
post #7 of 9
Rio, what is your take on length for the Mojo? Several reviews say it's fairly stiff; do the 176 or 186 work better for a normal sized person?
post #8 of 9
I have PEs and Karmas, both great twins. Size them 5-10cm longer than the size you think you want in a traditional ski. And beware of different sizing specs. My 185cm Karmas and my 179cm PEs are about the same length.
post #9 of 9
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
Rio, what is your take on length for the Mojo? Several reviews say it's fairly stiff; do the 176 or 186 work better for a normal sized person?
I get in trouble every time I recommend size for fat skis because I tend to ski them short preferring all-mountain performance over deep powder performance. A normal sized male skier could easily handle the 186 in open powder. If he has good skis trees shouldn't be problem, either. If the skier skis tight areas (especially if they get deep moguls like where I ski) than 176 would be a better size. 176 will also be a better size to play with in crud & slush. The trade off with going shorting is more fore/aft stability than float which you really notice in deep heavy snow.
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