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Just mounted some Neox bindings and wow are those screws tight...

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I just got my Atomic SL11s and mounted them up with Neox bindings. The plastic frame of the heel plate was somewhat curved due to the spring tension in the brakes. (The brakes were held straight against the plate in the packaging so they strained the plastic frame.)

All I want to say is DAYUM I had to crank down those screws to get the binding flush with the mounting plate. 4Nm my arse. The last set of xentrix bindings I mounted, I just set them in with a cordless drill and didn't need to give them any extra torque to get them flush. I wonder if all Neox bindings are like this. If so, I have no idea how the shop managed to mount my sugar daddys without pulling the screws out. I would think screwing into a top sheet (even if reinforced) is less secure than the mounting plate since the mounting plate has solid material along the entire length of the screw.

Anyway, the bindings on the SL11s seem flush but there's still a sliver of light towards the rear when I hold them up to inspect them. Oh well, I guess nothing's perfect. Should be a fun weekend!
post #2 of 19
i hope you didnt get 6-14s... my friend has cracked 5 heel pieces....
post #3 of 19
I ended up drilling holes to mount my Neox.. and it was still damn tight. I damn near stripped two of them all the way. I was not looking forward to drilling those out.
post #4 of 19
Thread Starter 
I wonder if this is indicative of some reasons why Atomic decided to keep a separate line of race bindings.



Quote:
Originally Posted by polkaudioguy View Post
i hope you didnt get 6-14s... my friend has cracked 5 heel pieces....
post #5 of 19
Thread Starter 
Were you increasing the size of the pre-drilled holes?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnythan View Post
I ended up drilling holes to mount my Neox.. and it was still damn tight. I damn near stripped two of them all the way. I was not looking forward to drilling those out.
post #6 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by pavedroad View Post
Were you increasing the size of the pre-drilled holes?
I didn't have any pre-drilled holes.

I had super hard plastic plugs that had central divots, but certainly no holes.
I didn't know any came with holes in them already
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
I think most Atomic skis come with mounting plates that have holes for Neox bindings. The exceptions I know of are race stock, which have Xentrix pattern, and the fat skis, which have no plate to reduce the amount of rise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnythan View Post
I didn't have any pre-drilled holes.

I had super hard plastic plugs that had central divots, but certainly no holes.
I didn't know any came with holes in them already
post #8 of 19
I don't think the screws were made to "pull" the binding flush with the plate. You can do it, but I was told you run the risk of stripping the screw. I used a c-clamp to keep the binding flush, and then tightened the screws.
post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt7180 View Post
I don't think the screws were made to "pull" the binding flush with the plate. You can do it, but I was told you run the risk of stripping the screw. I used a c-clamp to keep the binding flush, and then tightened the screws.
Agreed. The only screws designed to pull tight are the ones with smooth sections near the heads, AND the transition thread to smooth has to line up with the gap.
post #10 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnythan View Post
I didn't have any pre-drilled holes.

I had super hard plastic plugs that had central divots, but certainly no holes.
I didn't know any came with holes in them already
I always assumed those divots were a guide for where to drill. You didn't just screw into those dimples did you?

Let me be more clear. Some Atomic plates have both holes, for the expected bindings, and dimples for the rest of their line. What did your plate have?
post #11 of 19
The 4 screws for the heel with the Neox are different heights. I had a small gap or sliver between the heel and the mounting plate and didn't entirely eliminate it but reduced it by putting the longer 2 screws in the back holes.

I'd like to know as well, if it is acceptable to have a small gap or sliver betwen the plate and the binding. I agree, you really have to torque down on the srew driver to get the binding and the plate flush.
post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by newfydog View Post
I always assumed those divots were a guide for where to drill. You didn't just screw into those dimples did you?

Let me be more clear. Some Atomic plates have both holes, for the expected bindings, and dimples for the rest of their line. What did your plate have?
My plate had dimples into which I ended up drilling holes. The plate only had one set of holes, and they are for Neox bindings. These are '05 Metron 10 skis.

The instructions for the bindings mention "predrilled holes" and I tried to screw directly into the plastic but it absolutely was not happening.. so I drilled using the dimples to center in the plastic plugs.
post #13 of 19
Tap the holes and the screws should go in without much effort.

Don't tap, and there will be a little more resistance. With plastic plates, sometimes the screw will pull up some material around the holes preventing the bottom of the binding from getting flush.

Of course, if don't even drill holes to begin with, the screws won't want go in without some serious muscle...

And you folks are using a Pozi right?
post #14 of 19
I just mounted some Neox binders and couldn't get them tight enough to totally eliminate the sliver of light between the ski and mounting plates. If I flex them by pushing on the mid-point between the heel and toe they squeak like hell, but not when I flex them by pushing on the heel or toe pieces. I am hoping they won't do that when I ski because the noise is really loud.

Bought the set up on line and they came with a wider set of brakes to replace the ones already screwed into the heel plate. The single screws that hold in the brakes were loc-tighted, which I found out after totally stripping one of them trying to get it out. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the screw out and substitute that brake without destroying the mounting plate.

The Neox appears to be a simple system to assemble, I just hope they work without any problems since they seem to be engineered to have a less than perfect fit of the parts.
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudfoot View Post
I'm still trying to figure out how to get the screw out and substitute that brake without destroying the mounting plate.
Dremel a slot across the head and use a big -hot- flat blade screwdriver.
post #16 of 19
The extra brakes that came with my M EX went on fine, but they are humongous. If those are m ex's you are mounting I'd first try to bend the existing brake the 3-4 mm it needs to work.
post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by newfydog View Post
The extra brakes that came with my M EX went on fine, but they are humongous. If those are m ex's you are mounting I'd first try to bend the existing brake the 3-4 mm it needs to work.
I got a set of 88m brakes to replace the 76mm ones on the bindings. I notice from the info they also have 99 and 107mm brakes. It sounds like you got some bigger ones.

Any squeaking problems with your bindings? I didn't grease anything when I mounted mine. I think it is just the center main adjustment screw and plastic piece between the bindings that is making the noise. It looks like my boot may be touching it when I ski, so I'm worried that it'll make noise.

Comprex: Thanks. I tried heating the screw head to loosen the loc-tight, but it didn't work. The phillips head is so mutilated now that I'll have to cut a new slot. Haven't heard about using a hot screwdriver before, but I'll try anything at this point.
post #18 of 19
A screw extractor set is your best bet.
post #19 of 19
No squeaks in mine. Silcone spray?
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