binding terminology 101
You've already been well advised to take the gear to shop for adjusting, and $18 is a sweetheart deal. I've been tinkering with bindings for 30+ yrs, and still took my own e-bay purchase (which also just happened to fit to size, btw) to shop for doublechecking. Knowing that you're already headed that direction, here is a mini-primer, merely to acquaint you with TERMS you might see on this forum or at shop, and to answer some of your questions below (but not intended to put a screwdriver in hand!):DIN SETTING
: This is the scale you referred to, usually visible through a little window on both toe and heel pieces. DIN stands for "Deutsches Institut für Normung," an international standard for release settings. Basically, the higher DIN number, the more force it takes to pop you out of bindings. You don't want DIN set too high (may not release when you need it) or too low (might release too early, on every little bump). The shop has a table that will calculate the right setting for your size and skiing ability.FORWARD PRESSURE
: As Skier219 said, this also needs to be adjusted on the heel piece. The correct amount of forward pressure holds your boot in place and keeps the heel and toe working together when your ski bends and flexes underneath, as you ski downhill.TORQUE TESTING
: The shop will have equipment to see how much pressure it actually takes to release the bindings, once those settings are adjusted. The at-home tests you described ("walking out" of heel or twisting your foot out of the toe) are too crude to really tell you if they will work like they should, when you need them most.INDEMNIFICATION:
You've already heard about the possibility that shop might not work on bindings if they are too old. The NSSRA compiles a list of bindings that manufacturers will still, in essence, "stand behind"... updated annually. Here is a link to this year's list, and it looks like your binding is included: <http://www.nssra.com/2001/nssra/index.asp
> It may not even come up, and where binding falls on list is less important than that their safety checks spec out for you.
Good luck, and happy skiing!
Originally Posted by Turbo6
I did some digging and came across an article/website where someone showed how to test to see if the bindings were releasing like they are supposed to. Basically you support your weight by bending toward a table or chair and try to pull your heels out of the binding, if you can do it they arent releasing right. They also had a test for the toe bindings, if they dont release under a lot of pressure they may not release and would inflict bodily harm on my knees! We dont want that heh.
Im gonna take them to the local shop that has a 24 hr turn around time. Its $18 so its not all that bad. But like you said, they might not service my bindings. Did you mean if they are old as in used or an old model that cant be serviced? That would seriously infuriate me if they wont do it because MC Sporting goods (I think went out of business) did my old school skis and they were 10+ years old at the time.
I dont know if it helps but the numbers on the bindings are set to 5 for both front and back. I didnt know if that was some kind of stiffness rating on the release or if that had nothing to do with it. Advice on that would be appreciated if anyone knows more details of what that number means. Thanks for the replies so far.