Your Blizzards will have c, ome with a 1 degree base. Most equipment can be ordered from: http://www.reliableracing.com/skituning.cfm?c=w
To answer your questions in order:
Base grind to flat and then set a 0.5 (or 0.75 - as the leap to 0.5 is quite scary), also get the right structure (probably fine to medium-fine for the conditions you describe - any good shop will know local conditions and advise you) at the same time. A full race tune will set you up to start with. As you have had a base grind you should ask them to multiple wax or hot box the skis afterwards to really get the wax back into the bases.
I personally would go 0.75/ 87 to start with as you find a huge difference with a properly finished edge:
Order of work (once you have dulled the shop hand finished race tune by skiing on the skis):
1. Touch up Base Edges lightly with fine file (Swix/ Valorbe) using fixed base guide (Swix/SVST etc).
2. Touch up side edges lightly with fine file (Swix/ Vallorbe) using fixed side edge guide (SWIX/ SVST etc)
3. Polish base edges with diamond stones (medium/ fine and extra fine) progessively. I use Vallorbe but DMT should be as good.
4. Polish side edges with diamond stones (medium/ fine and extra fine) progessively. A final polish with a gummy block (held flat to polish the edge not across the edge to dull it). If you have gone with 0.5 base then I suggest de-tuning the first and last 3-4 inches of the edges with 4-5 gentle passes of the gummi block.
5. Brush dirt out of base structure with brass brush. Polish dust/ debris off ski with lint free cloth.
6. Hot wax base until the warm wax strapes off clean (normally 2-3 times depending on how dirty/ wet snow has been recently).
7. Whilst warm, crayon on base glide wax (touch to iron then rub onto base - uses less wax to get an even coat) and iron in. Let ski rest to cool and allow base to absorb wax.
8. Repeat with other ski.
9. Scrape cold skis.
10. Crayon on race wax and any additives (read wax/ additive instructions). For example I am using a cold HC wax (Swix) at the moment but that is for cold, dry Colorado snow. Because we have had some sunny conditions I crayon in some low flouro wax (a more general range) as this helps repel water and dirt from wet snow. Iron this in (note that the base is warm enough when the topsheet of the tips and tails is warm to touch).
11. Leave skis to cool completely.
12. Scrape excess wax off cold skis, brush final excess off with Natural Fibre brush, brush out structure with Horsehair brush, wipe ski down with polish cloth (note you should do this at every brush stage to remove dust/ debris).
13. Rub on and cork in any final race glide layers (read instructions) - this is something that you leave to race day when you know exact final conditions.
If you are taking this much care then you should invest in some base covers (or get a sewing minded friend/ wife to make you some out of a soft lint free cloth) and use a minimum of four dry ski straps.
I use this process with all my skis with the exception of the race wax and additives as I like a ski that glides well and turns well. For general skiing I use 1 degree base and 88 side which I find holds on almost everything at almost every kind of speed.
Obviously you will need a good bench and a good vice set up - also being clean tidy and methodical helps, so a tool box or a shelf above your ebnch is a good idea. Finally you can spend too much money on an iron - I found a good 1000W dual voltage Rowenta travel iron in Target for $28.
Stick with the best quality items you can afford as unless you are tuning lots of skis almost nothing will wear out very quickly so you can justify the cost against what you are saving using shops.