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remove micro burr with alu-ox stone instead of gummy

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
After deburring and polishing (I do this all with an alu-ox stone at the moment), you're supposed to take off the hanging micro burr between side and base edges at a 45 degree angle very lightly. Most say to us a gummi stone for this. Can I use the alu-oxide stone to do the same thing or is it too abrasive? I'm worried about detuning the edge.
post #2 of 11
You can feel whether or not you need to deburr. If you're just polishing with 200+ grit stones then a very light freehand pass with your highest grit stone along the base edge will knock the burr down from any "aggressive" side edge polishing. I've never found the need to run any stone at my edges at a 45 degree angle to them (although that is an accepted practice), but I usually use a polishing progression up to an 800 grit stone on my side edges and that leaves little to no burr on the base side edge. If it did leave any kind of burr it would always be along the base edge and it can usually be felt.

Let me re-emphasize that if you do choose to run the stone down the base edge that you do so very, very lightly to just knock off any burr resulting from polishing. We don't want to reset the base bevel angle here accidentally.
post #3 of 11
a gummi stone is so inexpensive and easy to use.

just get one.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I probably will but in the meantime can I use the alu-oxide for this or will it detune the edge?
post #5 of 11
personally, i would just skip the step in the mean time.
post #6 of 11
I wouldn't skip it if you actually have a burr along the edge from tuning. You'll be sort of left with what is called a "railed" edge. This is an old tuning term that means the edges are higher than the base. In this case the burr is higher than the edges (not necessarily the base also) and will cause you significant problems when trying to turn. A railed edge makes a ski want to track straight and stay on the edge even when you want it to turn.

A burr of significant length left along the edge(s) of your skis is one of the most frustrating ski tuning problems that people deal with. The skis won't be any fun on the mountain.
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
It seems the normal way of doing this is deburr & polish base edge, then deburr and polish side edge. This leaves you with a small hanging burr, which you take off with a gummy at a 45 degree angle.

This article:
http://www.holmenkol.us/myadmin/data...20Work%204.pdf

recommends doing the side edge first, then deburr the base edge 2nd.
Or you do base, side, then base again. Seems like you don't need to run anything along at 45 degrees.

?????
post #8 of 11

Sharpening outside edge

So, do you guys sharpen/polish/ your outside edge as well? Technically you don't ski on the outside do you?
post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by GordonFreeman View Post
It seems the normal way of doing this is deburr & polish base edge, then deburr and polish side edge. This leaves you with a small hanging burr, which you take off with a gummy at a 45 degree angle.

This article:
http://www.holmenkol.us/myadmin/data...20Work%204.pdf

recommends doing the side edge first, then deburr the base edge 2nd.
Or you do base, side, then base again. Seems like you don't need to run anything along at 45 degrees.

?????
You don't remove the hanging burr at a 45 degree angle. you run the stone flat against your base and in contact with the base edge with medium pressure.

You need a very hard gummi or i prefer an actual stone like and arkansas,ceramic alu-oxide or true hard stone for this purpose.

you can running a gummi down the edge at a 45 degree angle as a very last step, bjut ezxtremmly lightly just to have an x-tra smooth edge. this will not help with the hanging burr issue caused by tuning and polishing your side edge. This must be done flat against the base edge!
post #10 of 11
Thanks for straightening "us" out on that A-man. I knew something wasn't sitting right with me about running a stone at 45 degrees to the edge to remove a burr. I never do that and wasn't thinking "correctly" about why not.

spielerman - I always sharpen/polish the side edges first and then deburr along the base edge (as Holmenkol recommends). You generally never touch the base edge after the initial bevel is set. All you ever might do is knock down burrs (from rock damage, etc.) on the base edge side. To sharpen ski edges it's only necessary to sharpen & polish the side edges. If you think about it some you'll realize why that's the case.
post #11 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
You don't remove the hanging burr at a 45 degree angle. you run the stone flat against your base and in contact with the base edge with medium pressure.

You need a very hard gummi or i prefer an actual stone like and arkansas,ceramic alu-oxide or true hard stone for this purpose.


If you don't screw up your base edges by running over stuff and you knock down the burr with a hard smooth stone, you'll end up polishing the base edges too, giving you a faster ski.

Learn how to knock down the hanging burr by hand. If you screw up, you just need to go through the diamonds again. Result: even better polished side edges. So screwing up ain't so bad either -- just takes a bit more time to get it right.

It's worth the effort.
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