Originally Posted by Noodler
I have experimented with attempting to producing a "poor man's" crosshatch pattern by running the bar at a 45 degree angle across the base, but I've gotten mixed results and finally just quit even attempting to get a good pattern that way (I'll leave that for the stone grind machines).
45 degree angle is too much. For a ski with running surface of 10 cm, using a 30 cm riller, the angle at the ski should be about arctan(30/150) or about 11 degrees off perpendicular to the length of the ski. Imagine a billiards rake. The head is the riller, the cue is the ski. there is a 11 degree offset of the head to the cue.
Poor mans cross-hatch like this:
1) Ski is upside down, clamped.
2) set RHS of riller bar across the contact point on the tip of the LHS of ski (you are the frame of reference). Set up a 10 degree angle from the perpendicular to the ski. 0 degrees being straight across the ski. The face of the riller bar should point across the ski, not away.
While pulling riller towards you, without changing the angle, the riller should track so that at the end of the pull, the LHS of the riller bar is on the RHS of the ski.
3) set LHS of riller bar on RHS of ski, across the shovels contact point at a 10 degree angle so that the face of the riller points across the base to the other side of the ski.
While pulling riller towards you, without changing the angle, the riller should track so that at the end of the pull, the RHS of the riller bar is on the LHS of the tail.
I'll have to try that on an older pair of skis. I'll report my results.
Apparently, it is sufficient to hot-scrape and brush to remove the existing wax, so I will not worry about sanding. I have noticed that shop tunes come with linear rilling. I think this is can be a problem for beginner and intermediates, since it makes the ski run straighter, and harder to turn.