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Maplus Wax Test - Page 3

post #61 of 131

Wax Test

February 15th. No Idaho. Air temp 33-35 and snow 27-28 4-7 in. of new snow, pretty wet but not settled. Good skiing


GEAR. K2 Apache Outlaw 174 (my off piste powder skis)

APPLICATION. They had the remnants of a decent hot wax job. Added spray Univeral and corked into base.

RESULTS. Good, no problems in powder, no stickiness at all, rate slide as an 8 or scale of 1-10. Skied on them until about 1:30

OPINION. The night beforeI was pressed for time to tried the fast and easy way, spray on cork and go to bed. Worked fine. Had a good morning off piste and no complaints about wax.

#2 Fischer Race SC 170. These skis were brand new and had never been skied, had factory wax on them. Checked skis structure-ok, b ase level-flat and wiped clean the bases.

APPLICATION. Since they were new ski's I checked for loose hairs and there was none. Hot waxed with the universal. Spent a little extra time ironing wax in. Also took skis out of room temp. Hot waxed in garage and then immediately took back into house to cool slowly at room temp not garage temp. 2 hours later took back to garage. Scraped was and left a little more on base than I would for racing or 1 performance day. Brushed 15 times with horsehair brush (slidewright purchase-of course). Applied Universal spray on wax and corked. Polished with special cloth I have.

RESULT. About 1;30put them to work on a groomer with about 2" of fresh (fell in AM) on the run. In most cases in my past experience there would be some hesitancy on the ski's adapting to this type of snow. The skis were immediately great. I passed on a glide the other 3 people I was skiing with and state "wax" as I went bye. Rate skis 9.9 on a scale of 1-10.

OPINION. Excellent results. I only skied for about 2 hours on these and they were great. Will be interesting to see how this was job lasts. Will report how many days I get by waxing virtually twice.

ALPINORD/Question???? When I apply the spray on and then immediately cork I end up pushing a little of the liquid down the ski and it builds up on cork and wastes the wax. Any suggestions, I tried pressing more softly but that didn't necessarily work either.
post #62 of 131
Thread Starter 
When I apply the spray on and then immediately cork I end up pushing a little of the liquid down the ski and it builds up on cork and wastes the wax. Any suggestions, I tried pressing more softly but that didn't necessarily work either.
Is the cork flat on the ski and the wax is building on the edge? If you tilt the cork up a little, it acts like a bit of a squeegee to spread and push the liquid. I'm wondering if there will be less waste for liquids using the brush if you pour a little and cork instead of brushing.

Good and descriptive feedbacks, BTW. Thanks!
post #63 of 131
Pete, are you spreading with a natural or synthetic cork?

I find the natural cork clogs from the HB liquid much less than the synthetic, and seems to maintain good friction throughout. For narrow skis, that's my go-to method.

I also have to report really impressive results with the 6" soft rubber brayer on fat skis.
post #64 of 131

Wax test

1. Day two on K2 Outlaws as describe above. Skied crust and crummy snow half a day. No problems with wax, skied really well being towed behind a snowmobile. Seriously I did that all AM but obviously can't really rate wax under those circumstances. Did note I need to wax before using again as down to base on 45% of ski. Tough conditiions for a wax any wax.

2. Day two Fischer Race SC that I waxed as described above. Excellent, skied hard pack groomers and a few steep mogul runs off piste. They were great and I based everyone scooting down the road/trail to the lifts.

End of day still plenty of wax on ski's and no signs of noncoverage. Will use again as is and report.

Thanks for answers on spray on corking - will try.

Day two. Air Temp 28 in AM and snow 24 degrees

Air Temp PM 34 and snow on groomers 24 (North facing slopes)
post #65 of 131
Thread Starter 
I picked up a 6" rubber squeegee and tried one ski with it and the other with the cork. The squeegee spread and smoothed out the liquid evenly and quickly while using as little as possible. The cork worked fine, but it wasn't quite as simple and seemed to use a bit more material (still far less than hot waxing). I quickly corked both skis and then ironed with teflon sheet and immediately roto corked the softened wax (per Standard Application Procedure). You can see how the wax is further pushed into the base.

After waiting over ten minutes for the wax to harden, I roto brushed with hard horsehair, wiped clean and quickly applied the minimal P1 med spray with cork the same Standard Application procedure.

Regarding the silkiness of the wax, I find this to be true for all of the wax line that I have tried. Using uniform sheen as a gauge and exposed structure, it helps to decide when to stop roto brushing with a hard horsehair, followed by a nylon, for a nicely polished base.
post #66 of 131
The liquid waxes are very impressive. Kirkwood 2/17 snow temp -8 used the Maplus liquid wax (med temp -10 - 0 C) in the parking lot pouring onto the base and spreading with the brush. Corked and brushed. The wax provided fast even glide all day, even as the snow warmed and became a bit sticky. I'm going to order this product so its available anytime.

post #67 of 131
Thread Starter 
Glad you're finally 'gettin' some'. Another thread reminded me to state that the universal test samples, both spray and liquids, are paraffin. New for this season Maplus added low fluoro to their Super Glide universal sprays, rub-on liquids, solids & cream. Definitely an added benefit for wetter snows and humidity as is more aggressive structuring. The bulk liquid universal (1lt & 5lt) is paraffin only.
post #68 of 131

The Report

Well, it has been a few weeks now and I finally am getting to posting this review. I tried the wax on both my slalom and giant slalom skis for a day of skiing.

For the slalom skis I used the all purpose liquid as a base wax and ironed it in with the teflon pad and then corked and brushed (used my own softer nylon). I then used the medium spray which I only corked and lightly brushed - making sure the wax was as smooth and thin as possible.

The GS skis got a slightly different treatment. I opted to basewax with my base CH base prep wax, hot scrape, brush (brass/nylon combo), wipe down and then waxed with some Swix CH7 - crayoned in, ironed, corked, lightly scraped the remainder wax, brushed, and wiped down. I then topped it off with the Maplus cold spray, which I coarked into the base (slowly working down the length of the ski).

So... performance? Well, to put it bluntly this stuff is fast. It reminds me of when I used to cork floro powder into my bases before GS races - accept it lasts more than 5 gates (probably due to the liquid soaking into the base a bit). I suspect a lot of the slickness is due to the fact that you can get this wax on in such a thin coat. Hot waxing this thin is unheard of in hot wax unless it is done very carefully and meticulously.

Both skis had about the same performance - the GS skis were out in the early morning on the cold snow and the slaloms were out later in the day when it warmed up a little. The wax on the slaloms did not last as long as the GS skis and I could definitely notice when the wax had worn off (mostly because they start out so slick). I really enjoyed the sprays a lot. I think that they are going to become a routine final coat for my race skis after I have gone through my normal waxing process. The wax is very fast.

I still do not have enough experience with using only liquids to make a full switch, but I can say that using these as a final coat makes for a faster ski than if you had left the skis alone, and using only the liquid and spray combo is faster than a regular tempurature specific hot wax. I do not know how the bases will react to only using the liquids and sprays in terms of base longevity - time will tell.

Thanks to Alpinord for putting this together. When I get back into racing this stuff is going to be a on my skis for sure. The only wax that I have been on that was this fast was about 10 times the price for about 10% of the quantity.

Also, thanks for the straps!


post #69 of 131

Side note: Maplus racing base _solid_ medium base.

The stated temperature range for the PURPLE is just slightly colder than CH6.

The interesting part is that you can't really tell by scratching it, or one with the other, because it feels marginally softer when solid. Yet it seems to have a lot more heat capacity: it comes off the iron thicker, the droplets visibly cool slower, and the ski appears to get a lot more heat carried to it.
I could not reach the smoke point with my 800W single-element iron. (I could with the 1600W one on the CH4 setting. After a while (2 minutes?))
Scraping is easy, no cracking/splitting behavior, no static cling to the scraper. Brushes out readily with long-bristle brass.

Overall impression thus far: Might protect a ski from a hack ironing job (or a yard sale iron) whilst giving good penetration and saturation. Reasonable choice for a uni-wax for manmade snow. Unfortunately I'm starting to like this stuff so will have to collect on-snow impressions from others. Have not attempted crayon + cork method.
post #70 of 131

Wax Test

2/22/07 Lookout Pass

GEAR. K2 Apache Outlaws 174 My off piste and powder ski

CONDITIONS. 20 IN of powder, pretty wet powder. Air temp ran in AM from 28 degrees to 33 in afternoon. Snow29 degrees, wet but fresh.

WAX. Waxed with universal block, hot waxed on and in. Let cool, scraped, 15 brush strokes tip to tail, horsehair/fine.

RESULTS. Excellent. 9 on a scale of 1-10. We have a tree area thats really good on days like this and the run ends on a road down to the lifts. Passed everyone on the road, didn't make any turns just slid down ahead of everyone, friends and strangers. As good the end of the day as the beginning.

OPINION. No problems with maplus waxes so far.
post #71 of 131
My kit finally arrived two weeks ago – just after I returned from a ski trip. A combination of the flu and family commitments prevented me from getting out until President’s Day.

I decided to start off with the P1 liquid. In the interest of making sure I was testing only the Maplus wax, I thoroughly cleaned both skis with a citrus cleaner beforehand. I then applied it mainly by spilling small amounts on the ski and brushing them out until I had covered the entire ski, but also by using the brush to pick up wax from a puddle created when I accidentally knocked over the bottle. Though probably not recommended and certainly wasteful, this was easier. I’m wondering whether a bottle with a spongelike applicator (like those liquid shoe polishes) might be a better way to dispense this stuff.

Once the solvent had evaporated, I ironed the wax in using the Teflon sheet. There didn’t seem like there was anything to scrape, so I brushed each ski several times using a brass/nylon combi brush; I’m not even sure how necessary that was since the structure was already pretty exposed.

I skied Monday and Tuesday at Hunter Mountain. Weatherwise, it would be hard to find two consecutive days with a greater contrast in temperatures. That may sound like a great test for a universal wax, but truth be told, most of the time the temperature was just at or just beyond the wax's intended temperature range. If nothing else, I got to test it's durability.

When I started the car Monday morning, the thermometer read 1 (Fahrenheit); by the time we got to the mountain it had warmed up to a balmy 2. I have no clue about snow temperature because it was also more than a little windy, so this was not the kind of day to stand around taking snow temperatures (my kids would have killed me). The snow was dry, both machine and wind packed with small pockets of powder wherever the wind had blown it. There’s no doubt I would have been better off with a wax designed for extremely cold conditions, but my skis glided well enough. The glide improved as the day went on and the temperature climbed into the teens.

The following day, at roughly the same time, the car thermometer read 38. Couldn’t find the thermometer (I didn’t lose it – I later found it buried at the bottom of my backpack) so again no clue about snow temperature. My skis still had enough wax left to glide quite nicely, though by 11:00 the temperature was in the mid 40's and the snow had taken on a creamy mashed potatoes-like consistency that’s sticky regardless of what wax one uses, particularly where it’s not cut up.

If nothing else, I can attest that the wax held up for two days of skiing (not sure if I could squeeze a third out through), and it certainly didn’t work any worse than my usual iron on uiniversal under conditions for which it was not really intended. Hopefully, I’ll get out this weekend and test it again under more ideal conditions.

In terms of application, this stuff is a dream. It’s certainly faster and there’s much less mess to clean up than with conventional wax. I don’t miss scraping at all.
post #72 of 131
Hey garylk, at first I was pouring wax directly on the ski, but it was a little difficult to control that way, so I started pouring wax on the brush, then brushing onto ski which worked great.

I've reported on my quick spray/cork/brush application which worked fine for my needs although it did not appear to last the whole day.

I found a ski that was similar to the one that came apart after I used the spray wax. I applied Malpus universal liquid wax to it by pouring a little on the brush (paint brush provided with the test kit) and brushing it on the ski. Unlike the spray wax, it did not gum up or become uneven with repeated strokes. (The spray seems to prefer to be spread quickly before drying, but the liquid can be brushed as long as you like.) Although it probably is better to get it spread evenly before it dries if you aren't intending to iron it in. The liquid wax was easy to brush on. I then ironed it with through the teflon pad. I cranked the iron hotter that I normally do to get the heat through the teflon. After ironing, I wasn't sure there was enough wax on there. so I sprayed universal wax, corked it, brushed with nylon, called it done.

The other ski had been waxed with Maplus spray wax once. It was very white after one day with the spray wax. I wiped it down with a fiber pad as suggested which made it look good (the white went away), so I decided to just spray it again, cork, brush and go ski.

The air temp got close to 50F. I guess the snow was around 32F (isothermal). As before the glide was very good. I skied for about 5 hours. I could not perceive any difference between the two skis concerning glide. At the end of the day both skis look pretty good. The ski that has beened sprayed twice, which appeared to have more wax in it before the first application/use seems to have more wax in it now at the end of the day than it had after the first day I used the spray wax.

The spray wax seems to hold up better in the wet snow that on the ice. This may be typical, I never really paid close attantion to my bases before. I am not a serious performance waxer and I was sent only universal spray and liquid waxes accordingly. (I also received two types of iron-on wax.) My concerns are glide, durability and ease of application, in that order.

The liquid wax ironed in followed by spray wax corked and brushed was a slightly easier process and not as messy compared to regular hot wax, scrape, cork, brush. The difference in convenience is not significant. It is more than offset by the fact that I am using extra chemical solvents and will have an empty bottle to dispose when it's done (ie, possible enviromental impact). Granted a lot of wax scrapings are put in the waste stream from hot waxing. I think I would prefer a food grade parafin, all things considered, although I haven't tested that. I have been using Toko universal hot wax purchased in bulk years ago.
post #73 of 131

Maplus Test

Taking off for 3 days of skiing at (wife's choice) Panorama Ski Resort in BC. Checkedd the weather etc. and waxed as follows, will report results when get back. (posting now so I can remember what I did when gret back in 5 days. Never been to Panorama before, looks like an intermediate's hill, gave wife 100% her choice this time.


Fischer Race SC 170's. Hot waxed with block of cold wax, scraped, horsehair brushed 15 times, polished with special cloth.

K2 Apache Outlaws 174. Sprayed with cold wax, let cool and set up, lightly scraped (no much wax to scrape), brushed 10 times, polished with special cloth.

'Wife's Atomic MEX 153, Hot waxed with cold wax, scraped, brushed, polished.

My wife ski's groomers only so will b e on groomer Fischers probably all 3 days. Took Outlaws in case there's any freshies.

Note/Alpinord. The spray application I tilted the cork and the spray application went on better with less waste.
post #74 of 131
I love the sprays!

In a big rush to leave to ski and realized my husband's skis needed wax. So I said, why not try(hadn't really had a chance to get aquainted with the package at that time)

He was very impressed with the kick in the pants he got out of it, and I was impressed with how easy it was to apply at a moments notice.

The second try was on a day I was preparing to go and took the time to read up and apply the liquid on My Nordica Nitrous' and Race Tiger RC's. The day was somewhat cool 18f ish with 6 inches of fresh light snow. There was nothing sticky about the snow or the skis. The time I spent going through the powder area, I was surprised with how well this wax helped me get through it without struggling.

For a wax that is as easy to apply and work with, this stuff performed wonderfully. I haven't used the hard wax yet. Look for a report on that as soon as I get out there, and get serious about it.

Thanks for letting me test this product. I definitely want to get some info on ordering some more of the spray wax and the liquid also.
post #75 of 131

Wax Test

When I used Spray/cold wax yesterday I couldn't get it to spray. Warmed it up and worked fine. I had left it in garage for about 3 week and didn't use as too warm here. This may present a problem/question. If you take this on a trip and leave in the trunk or back of truck will it get to cold to use. Might keep in cab on any road trips etc.
post #76 of 131
Thread Starter 
After three partial days (close to two full days) on race base medium solid prep wax and P1-medium, the bases are still uniformly silky and showing no signs of wear. The conditions have included all snow types (...and rocks & logs....oops ). Comparing notes with a shop owner, long in the business: he is impressed with the glide of the medium race base and durability. He figures if he can generally get two days out of a CH4, he can get 4 out of the RB medium solid and loves it (as I do). I haven't compared RB Medium solid to liquid for durability comparison and need to. Mixing RB hard & soft, should equate to a medium (I think) if anyone else wants to give it a go.

Sounds like it's generally easier to use sprays than liquids?? I'm also messing around with generic spray bottles to use bulk liquids to see how practical that is versus the packaged spray canisters. I've had good luck with base cleaners and 50/50 denatured alcohol with both pump sprayers and misters. So far so good with Universal and a mister, but I had initial trouble with RB soft as it has a thicker viscosity. Good point on warming up per Pete. This may help with some sprayer issues.

What additional info do you need trekchick? Any other input from testers who have not commented yet? Sounds like we're getting good results. Thanks for all of your time and feedback.
post #77 of 131
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
Good point on warming up per Pete. This may help with some sprayer issues.

What additional info do you need trekchick? Any other input from testers who have not commented yet? Sounds like we're getting good results. Thanks for all of your time and feedback.
The kit you sent was thorough as for product, and maybe I haven't followed the posts concerning the test as well as I should have, but I want to make sure I am using the hard waxes in the right temps.

Also, I am reading a bit about multi applications, like applying a hard wax then the spray wax. This is pretty awesome stuff and I want to make sure I'm doing right by you and your product with results.
post #78 of 131
Thread Starter 
The White (hot) and Green solids are rec level universal paraffins which collectively cover the same range as the Universal liquids & sprays. The purple is the same temperature range as the universal green, but is harder and more durable (and not quite as easy to apply due to it's hardness).

The temp ranges of these and other Maplus waxes can be found here or on the first page of this thread.

The Race Bases (soft-red, medium-purple and hard-green), liquids or solids are high-melt (hard) paraffin base prep waxes for the 'P' performance wax overlays. They provide additional base protection (including for fluoros), saturation and durability, while also providing an excellent foundation for the 'P' waxes. (As I've noted previously, I'm really liking the medium as an excellent, durable, no-brainer universal paraffin on it's own. Also, the hard on cold snow.) For wetter conditions, I prefer the low fluoros. If I want to nail or tweak the temperature, overlaying the P1 or P2 is easy and fast as they are at a different range. I'm finding I get much longer wax duration using the prep waxes before anything else after base structuring, repairs and cleaning (with cleaners or hot scraping). Sometimes I'll hot scrape with the soft. I have yet to see a fully whitish base after a day or two of skiing like others have noted, only some along the edges after a few or several days.

According to the Maplus Product Manager, the ultimate base prep procedure for race and new skis, would be to use the Race Base liquids and a hot box. Short of that, using the liquid and adding heat, will greatly reduce the number of times anyone will 'need' (or think they need) to apply and scrape multiple wax cycles for preparing their new skis. I find that after very aggressive cleaning, base sanding & structuring, I get excellent glide after applying one or two cycles and is not noticeably different than applying more.
post #79 of 131
Ok, it's taken me a while to chime in here... When I received the kit, we were in the middle of a cold spell. 0 to 10 below farenheit, so I wanted to wait until it got back to normal to try the Maplus products. NOTHING slides very well at below zero temps and I wanted to give it a fair test.

I really don't like the liquid that you have to kind of pour on and spread with a paint brush.. It seems like kind of a hassle. If you have to go through the process of applying it, then ironing with a teflon sheet, I'd rather just hotwax conventionally.

The sprays on the other hand, are AWESOME. I really like them alot. I've used the P1 cold in 20 degree temps and it glides very well. Our snow is very abrasive right now, and some base burn has been showing up lately. The liquid spray seems to be minimizing that too. It is difficult to measure the durability of the sprays, but they seem to last as long as traditional wax methods. I've waxed 4 pairs of skis with the P1 cold. I'm interested to see how many pairs I can get out of one can.

More to come.
post #80 of 131
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
Sounds like it's generally easier to use sprays than liquids??.
No, the liquid goes on much easier, spreads nice with the brush . People are having trouble getting the spray out of the can. Mine sprayed alright but was not as easy to spread evenly as the liquid.
post #81 of 131
U.P., Please describe how you use the spray wax. Do you spray and go or is it a final coat?

Try the liquid again and pour it on the brush, that makes it REALLY easy. EASIER than dripping hot wax off the iron. I never knew about crayoning before and haven't tried that yet, but brushing is an easy way to get wax on your ski, if you pour the wax on the brush. Cake.

Your other complaint is the teflon which I'll admit kinda gets in the way. Alpinord, is it necessary to use that or can we just put the iron to the skis?
post #82 of 131
Thread Starter 
Since the liquid or spray wax on the bases or so thin, the teflon sheet acts as the protective wax layer on which the iron glides one typically has while hot waxing and then scraping. Like this whole concept of applying and using liquids and sprays, the teflon takes a little getting used to. I find it pretty straight forward, but admittedly blow it off occasionally and directly iron the bases. I don't recommend it unless you are willing to accept the possibility of applying too much heat to your bases. You have to pay extra attention to keeping things moving and possibly faster. With the high-melt race bases higher temperatures are suggested, increasing the risk. The Universal needs less heat.

The teflon can also help with crayoning less solid wax on and hot waxing it.
post #83 of 131
Originally Posted by telerod15 View Post
U.P., Please describe how you use the spray wax. Do you spray and go or is it a final coat?
It's basically spray and go, but I have waxed my skis LOTS this season, so it's not like I'm just using the spray on a dry base.

Try the liquid again and pour it on the brush, that makes it REALLY easy. EASIER than dripping hot wax off the iron.
I don't know.. I just don't like it. I like the spray better.

Your other complaint is the teflon which I'll admit kinda gets in the way. Alpinord, is it necessary to use that or can we just put the iron to the skis?
If the only reason for the teflon is to reduce the heat, why not just lower the heat of the iron? Again, if I'm going to iron anyway, I'd rather hot wax.
post #84 of 131
Thread Starter 
If the only reason for the teflon is to reduce the heat, why not just lower the heat of the iron? Again, if I'm going to iron anyway, I'd rather hot wax.
The objective of heating the liquids or sprays is to exceed the durability of hot waxing solids with little effort and no or little scraping.

I think the balance point of finding the right temperature for good flow without damaging the bases, with or without the teflon, gets into the art, confidence and skill of the user. It would be great to dial in some recommendations, but may not be a good idea to omit the teflon for those not experienced with hot irons on ski or snowboard bases.
post #85 of 131
That's great that the spray is working for you, U.P. Keep a can in your gear bag. When it's inconvenient or imppossible to hot wax, you can spray.

I also am leaning towards hot waxing solid wax as my primary waxing method, although I plan to order some Maplus liqiuid wax when my sample runs out. Since I like working with the liquid better than the spray (no worries, U.P. if you don't ), my next test will be liquid wax, no iron. I think from Cirquerider's report, it should work well and be a good choice to take with me to the mountain. I currently carry some rub on wax which is useful but not great.

I'm not done evaluating the liquid/spray and haven't even begun testing the solid wax samples. Alp, thanks for including me in the test. I expect to continue using Maplus wax long after the test samples are gone.
post #86 of 131
OK, I poured the liquid on the brush and brushed it on last night. It did work much better. Thanks for the tip. I didn't iron. I just let it dry, then brushed with a coarse brass, then a fine brass brush. I then sprayed on some P1 Med, and corked it. I finished it with a fine brass brush, then a horsehair.

We'll see how it works tonight.
post #87 of 131
Thread Starter 
What are people finding to be the number of waxings out of a 50ml spray canister? The 50ml (or so) of liquids? Is the number of waxings tending to be less than with past hot waxings?

Is the 1" brush a good size or would a wider one work better?

One option I've considered is using a wide mouth container that you can dip the brush in, but fear that the evaporation would accelerate too much. Any thoughts?

Currently, the liquid Universal is available in only a 1 or 5 liter container. Would a smaller container size be desirable versus the 50 or 150ml sprays & 80ml sponge applicator universal LF options now available?
post #88 of 131
I thought the 1" brush was a great size -- felt perfect. On my carver skis, it flares out to cover the narrow waist area in one pass. A wider brush would be messy there. Maybe someone with big powder boards would prefer a wider brush though (then again, do they even wax? )

I got three waxings out of the small liquid sample, on various size skis. Have a little bit leftover that may cover my wife's smaller skis.

I think a traditional container, coupled with a small plastic paint cup (like you might buy at the home center to dole out paint) would be the best bet. People could put a small amount in the cup and brush out of that.
post #89 of 131

Wax Test

Ref. post #73

General. Went to Panorama BC, wife's turn to pick resort, she picked for groomers and ambience. Skied groomers mostly. Waxed as post 73 states before left for 5 hour drive to Panorama. After checking web/weather waxed with cold wax MISTAKE should have used Universal.
Not as cold as read on weather reports. Groomers about 22-28 degrees.

Fischers/mine and Atomic's/wifes. Ski's stuck a little when moving slow,i.e., to lifts etc., worked fine kon pretty hard groomed runs. Skied Tue all day on these. 7 on a 1-10 scale.

Wed. skied on same wax job again. Both ski's showed some wear end of 2nd day still 7 out of 10 for glide.

Wed night, on pickup tailgate. Spray waxed both ski's with universal, one pass plastic scraper, brushed with fine horsehair brush. Wed skied groomers and about 8.5 out of 10. Plus. Waxed 2 pairs of ski's on tailgate in about 10-15 min. DID: 1) wipe bases clean 2) spray on universal 3)cork into base 4) one pass scrape 5) wipe and then brush about 5 full strokes with fine horsehair brush 6) wipe/polish with my special cloth.

Thur. AM skied groomers, 9 of 10 on glide scale, good result for such a quick easy job. Wife went shopping at noon and I went into Tayn ton Bowl chasing saome steep/powder and trees. Skis performed very well in very changeable conditions (4,000 vertical). Wifes ski's the end of day in good shape, my Fischer showed some dryness on sides.

COMMENTS. My fault chose cold wax for lst day but didn't really affect anything on groomers. Like ease of spray applic on tailgate of pickup and it perform well. Groomer conditions I would rate as very tough on bases/wax. Was really good nice snow as we usually have in No. Idaho.

OPINIONS. On above comments. For a quick fix wax I prefer the spray.Used the paint brush and found I wasted liquid and it was easier to just iron on/drip wax. I didn't like the teflon pad operation and just hot wax in. I don't worry if the iron is a little too hot - I just keep it moving all the time. I've been using this method of ironing for 30 yrs and have never burned a ski etc. JUST KEEP THE IRON MOVING. Maybe the paint brush method would work better with a sponge on end of bottle, or even the cup/lid as 219 mentioned. Had the spray bottle cease to work again and put it in my armpit for about 2 minutes and it warmed up and worked fine. I've waxed about 5 pairs of ski's so far with the univ. spray and have a little left.

If I were to purchase waxing stuff for say next year. I'd buy 2 bottles of spray on universal and some universale blocks. Haven't priced yet so can't comment on that.
post #90 of 131
PNI, funny you mention mistakes, I used the universal in Utah (snow 17F-28F, air temps 24-44F) and the first runs were maybe 3/10 for glide if I corked them in pretty well. 8/10 once the snow warmed (I didn't measure the temp of the ski bases, twit).

I think I will continue to err on the cold side.
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